2009 Lancer Ralliart - GST Basemap
#3271
Balance 21 is very nice. Normal manual had a slight clunk when it shifted from second to first but only happened once and. Very Normal in my book. Tho I did notice more popping from my exhaust during decel in every mode be it normal auto or sport manual.
#3272
Evolving Member
Just flashed balance 21 to my car and it feels much better than the standard v2.7, I noticed when slowing down to a stop in sport manual mode that when I downshift, it is way smoother and no clunking or lurching like the original 2.7.
#3273
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Ok so i have been runing this map for a little while now, the only thing i have noticed is that when im at 3/4'ish throttle and i go to shift into 2'nd or 3'rd its not a quick gear grab it seems like the tranny slips a little bit then gabs the gear. Dont really know how to say it. when you are at WOT it a quick shift no slippage you can just hear/feel a differance. It like when your just learning how to drive a manual and your slipping the clutch on a small enbankment trying not to stall the car.
#3274
Evolved Member
Yeah, there's something the SST is doing with 40-75% throttle that I can't seem to nail.
Mine is slightly slippy 1st->2nd, above 5000rpm. Plastus has been known to hop up and down about this very issue, so his SST must get quite slippy there too.
It's only mid-throttle, though. Light throttle/WOT extremes are good. Odd, isn't it.
Incidentally, I've experienced this on my factory tune too! It's just a bit less noticeable, as stock tune has much lower torque levels at 50% throttle, above 5000rpm. Plastus, on the other hand, apparently gets tight shifts there on stock tune. It's a puzzle.
I have thought of one thing I haven't tried yet (apart from turning down the boost... and who wants that). I might muck about with the lower boundary timing map in that region. We can drop the torque off just during the upshift by serving up some decent timing retard. I know the rpm/load region to target... it's just a matter of trying it out. Perhaps the SST and the engine are at odds with each other, and at part-throttle the SST just isn't trying as hard.
I can't get the SST to clamp harder there without introducing dodgy side-effects, so perhaps an engine torque reduction is in order... limited to the upshift itself.
You never know, it might do the trick. It feels like a bit of a band-aid, but if it works, and doesn't negatively impact any other area, I for one will be very happy to go down that route.
Cheers,
Rich
Mine is slightly slippy 1st->2nd, above 5000rpm. Plastus has been known to hop up and down about this very issue, so his SST must get quite slippy there too.
It's only mid-throttle, though. Light throttle/WOT extremes are good. Odd, isn't it.
Incidentally, I've experienced this on my factory tune too! It's just a bit less noticeable, as stock tune has much lower torque levels at 50% throttle, above 5000rpm. Plastus, on the other hand, apparently gets tight shifts there on stock tune. It's a puzzle.
I have thought of one thing I haven't tried yet (apart from turning down the boost... and who wants that). I might muck about with the lower boundary timing map in that region. We can drop the torque off just during the upshift by serving up some decent timing retard. I know the rpm/load region to target... it's just a matter of trying it out. Perhaps the SST and the engine are at odds with each other, and at part-throttle the SST just isn't trying as hard.
I can't get the SST to clamp harder there without introducing dodgy side-effects, so perhaps an engine torque reduction is in order... limited to the upshift itself.
You never know, it might do the trick. It feels like a bit of a band-aid, but if it works, and doesn't negatively impact any other area, I for one will be very happy to go down that route.
Cheers,
Rich
#3276
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Edmonton Alberta
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Thanks for the quick response to my question guys. What a relief that is that I probably didn't do any damage. I put the gts boost pill in before work and holy crap what a difference it made.
#3277
I am currently using 2009 ralliart 91oct boost pill v27 balance 21map. I recently installed the magnaflow catback and noticed I have 4 knock sum around high 4000rpm and another 2 knock sum at mid 4000rpm, all on the same log. Does that mean I have a bad cat? and or bad rear o2 sensor?
#3278
Evolved Member
I think it means you're on 91 octane fuel.
Ignore knocksum of 1 or 2.
The occasional random knock is just par for the course.
If you get repeatable, consistent knock at any one rpm/load area, your tune could do with timing being revised. Remember, these are Base maps - starting points - and you can always find improvement by getting a tune exactly tailored to your specific engine. That is particularly the case when it comes to ignition timing.
You could well get knock at light loads (60-70) at low rpm (1250-2000rpm). That's particularly bad on some cars, and seems to occur on the factory tune. It may be able to be tuned out by someone talented, but once again, it'll likely be specific to each car.
Overall, it's a VERY good idea to monitor the tune via logging, as you're doing. Good one - keep it up.
Cheers,
Rich
Ignore knocksum of 1 or 2.
The occasional random knock is just par for the course.
If you get repeatable, consistent knock at any one rpm/load area, your tune could do with timing being revised. Remember, these are Base maps - starting points - and you can always find improvement by getting a tune exactly tailored to your specific engine. That is particularly the case when it comes to ignition timing.
You could well get knock at light loads (60-70) at low rpm (1250-2000rpm). That's particularly bad on some cars, and seems to occur on the factory tune. It may be able to be tuned out by someone talented, but once again, it'll likely be specific to each car.
Overall, it's a VERY good idea to monitor the tune via logging, as you're doing. Good one - keep it up.
Cheers,
Rich
#3279
I think it means you're on 91 octane fuel.
Ignore knocksum of 1 or 2.
The occasional random knock is just par for the course.
If you get repeatable, consistent knock at any one rpm/load area, your tune could do with timing being revised. Remember, these are Base maps - starting points - and you can always find improvement by getting a tune exactly tailored to your specific engine. That is particularly the case when it comes to ignition timing.
You could well get knock at light loads (60-70) at low rpm (1250-2000rpm). That's particularly bad on some cars, and seems to occur on the factory tune. It may be able to be tuned out by someone talented, but once again, it'll likely be specific to each car.
Overall, it's a VERY good idea to monitor the tune via logging, as you're doing. Good one - keep it up.
Cheers,
Rich
Ignore knocksum of 1 or 2.
The occasional random knock is just par for the course.
If you get repeatable, consistent knock at any one rpm/load area, your tune could do with timing being revised. Remember, these are Base maps - starting points - and you can always find improvement by getting a tune exactly tailored to your specific engine. That is particularly the case when it comes to ignition timing.
You could well get knock at light loads (60-70) at low rpm (1250-2000rpm). That's particularly bad on some cars, and seems to occur on the factory tune. It may be able to be tuned out by someone talented, but once again, it'll likely be specific to each car.
Overall, it's a VERY good idea to monitor the tune via logging, as you're doing. Good one - keep it up.
Cheers,
Rich
#3280
Evolved Member
#3281
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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I think it means you're on 91 octane fuel.
You could well get knock at light loads (60-70) at low rpm (1250-2000rpm). That's particularly bad on some cars, and seems to occur on the factory tune. It may be able to be tuned out by someone talented, but once again, it'll likely be specific to each car.
Overall, it's a VERY good idea to monitor the tune via logging, as you're doing. Good one - keep it up.
Cheers,
Rich
You could well get knock at light loads (60-70) at low rpm (1250-2000rpm). That's particularly bad on some cars, and seems to occur on the factory tune. It may be able to be tuned out by someone talented, but once again, it'll likely be specific to each car.
Overall, it's a VERY good idea to monitor the tune via logging, as you're doing. Good one - keep it up.
Cheers,
Rich
#3282
Richard, the changes in the SST tables may change RPM at which upshift? Sometimes, when TPS ~ 70%, ("D" NORMAL MODE) RPM increase up to 5500, is this normal?
Last edited by dandan2000; Jun 23, 2012 at 11:59 AM.
#3284
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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I am currently using 2009 ralliart 91oct boost pill v27 balance 21map. I recently installed the magnaflow catback and noticed I have 4 knock sum around high 4000rpm and another 2 knock sum at mid 4000rpm, all on the same log. Does that mean I have a bad cat? and or bad rear o2 sensor?
I flashed back to 2.5 and the knock was less 10 peak but still ugly.
The end result I ended up increasin fuel by .7 in the WOT section and got it under a single 4 count. Did most testin on a country road as it rained a bit on the track and they delay.
Any idea why this is rich?
#3285
Evolved Member
This is all the delightful mystery of the art/science of tuning!
Personally, I wouldn't run a TBE Base Map tune without (a) FMIC upgrade for "less inefficient" cooling, and (b) Wideband, coz you need to know where your mixtures are while at peak load.
Also, track/drag conditions differ from road driving. I don't see my knockCEL flash once on my tune while on the road, but once I get to the track, all bets are off. Track driving really shows you where your engine is (or isn't) happy.
A road tune probably won't be right for track. Bryan's TBE Base Map tunes use higher boost targets and less rich fuelling than his regular-exhaust tunes. You are therefore wise to pay close attention to stuff like timing, fuelling, knock - as you're doing!
Oh, and if you now only get one instance of ks=4 at the drags or on track, I tip my hat to you!
Cheers,
Rich
Personally, I wouldn't run a TBE Base Map tune without (a) FMIC upgrade for "less inefficient" cooling, and (b) Wideband, coz you need to know where your mixtures are while at peak load.
Also, track/drag conditions differ from road driving. I don't see my knockCEL flash once on my tune while on the road, but once I get to the track, all bets are off. Track driving really shows you where your engine is (or isn't) happy.
A road tune probably won't be right for track. Bryan's TBE Base Map tunes use higher boost targets and less rich fuelling than his regular-exhaust tunes. You are therefore wise to pay close attention to stuff like timing, fuelling, knock - as you're doing!
Oh, and if you now only get one instance of ks=4 at the drags or on track, I tip my hat to you!
Cheers,
Rich