Oh yeah...MacBook changes a lot of things. sorry I can't help with that one. if you could get a good of a pc to install it on, that would be much easier.

 

save it to C:\Program Files (x86)\OpenECU\EcuFlash\rommetadata\mitsubishi or where ecuflashed was installed. You don't need to open it or read it or even need to make sense what it means. The Def files from Golden's website is only there to translate the rom so its readable...(as in it makes sense to human beings)

 

P050B came back. Temperatures are colder now though. -20C ambient. I'll see if I can get another cold start log for you. Does it matter if I have the block heater going on it too?

 

Any log of a cold start where the P050B occurs will be gold. I just want to review the timing advance being used. Please make sure you're logging Engine Coolant Temperature!

Rich

 

Have you checked ur air filter as i also got this code a couple of times when it was cold. I changed my air filter and havnt got the code since.

 

I changed my filter near the end of winter back in 2011. So, its pretty new. Plus the code has to do with ignition timing, im a little suspicious that timing could be connected with the air filter. But you may be right!

 

so, i went to log my car, and the service light went away...once again adapting to the environment. Ill make sure to get some logs when it comes back.

 

u should change ur air filter atleast twice a year. Some ppl change it every or everyother oil change. Change it and i bet u will not get that code again. The code is insufficient ingnition retard for more than XX secs, if ur air filter is dirty it will restrict air flow. Trust me its only 10 bucks.

 

Ill have the AEM intake so ill just wash the filter I have. AEM has a cleaning solution to apply to the filter to "loosen" dirt.

Does anyone have alternative solutions to cleaning a filter without buying a 50$ bottle of spray/cleaner

 

Ok guys, let's get this straight once and for all, what triggers the P050B code is having a HFC installed and starting up the car in cold weather and driving it without first letting it warm up. I've confirmed that this is the issue after weeks of testing with my own car. The only time that I EVER got the P050B code was the ONE AND ONLY time that I started my car in the cold and drove off quickly without letting it sit there and idle for a few minutes to warm it up. Every single time I've let the car warm up for about 3 minutes before putting it in drive and taking off I've NEVER ONCE gotten the code. Try it for yourself and you'll see that I'm right. Three minutes warmup time is about average, you might need a minute or two more if it's extremely cold outside, or you might only need 1-2 minutes of warmup time if it's relative mild weather.

 

This sounds plausible from a ROM-tuning point of view.


Timing advance is used by the ECU to warm up the cat - it retards timing based on coolant temperature. So our High Octane Timing Map gets extra retard when the engine is cold.

There is also a "lower boundary" MINIMUM timing advance map. The ECU adds to this map when engine coolant is cold. Our 3.0 tune has areas of this map carrying higher values - it's a major factor in SST upshift "feel".

When engine coolant is at the bottom end of these adjustments, timing gets SQUEEZED between the retarding of the timing map and the advancing of the lower boundary map. P050B is simply triggered by "desired" timing not being able to get as retarded as the ECU wants... due to the revised lower boundary.


So... when you idle it first in very cold weather, you're letting coolant temp come up, thereby lessening the impact of all this cold-engine timing adjustment.

Idling, there's no "squeeze" trigger for P050B. If you drive it stone-cold, you're traversing all over those 3D maps, and can hit a P050B trigger.


Make sense?

Ultimately, idling it first for 3 minutes when it's freezing is a workaround. The proper solution is for me to revise the timing tables so this issue isn't possible in the first place.


Rich

 

Question... from nearly a month i have some issues, from stop under moderate/heavy acceleration sometimes (80% of the time) the car vibrates/shakes and feels like the wheels are fighting to get traction for couple of seconds ! no warnings or CEL's displayed! Anyone had some similar issues?

 

Actually, I dont have a HFC but a resonated test pipe. Second thing is the code comes up as soon as the car starts. It does not pop up when driving right after the engine is started in cold temperatures.

The only time it comes up is when ambient temperature went below 0 Celsius. Why it went away is beyond me. I do know that it came back when temps started to hit -15C, but now the car adjusted, so its gone for now. When it comes back, Ill make some logs.

 

I don't think that using a HFC is relevant. My car is completely stock with the exception of a (clean) K&N High Flow filter, and the car was throwing the code shortly after flashing. I have been logging every morning and when I leave work (Tactrix standalone logging FTW), temperatures vary between being -2 in the garage, to ~-15 outside when I leave work. I usually let the car warm up for about 5 seconds, put it in reverse and get going. I have tried a bunch of things to try to get the code to come up, but it seems like the car has adapted? I might try re-flashing 3.0 and log for codes again.

Anything else I can try?

 

Nega, can you send me your tactrix stand alone logging cfg file? Mines broken:/

do our car evolve by adapting to its environments? lol....