2009 Lancer Ralliart - GST Basemap
#3751
Evolved Member
The TBE tune, in my opinion, warrants the use of a wideband and fitment of an Evo X FMIC (or better).
Well, in my book, anyone who wants to look after their Ralliart should have a wideband and a decent FMIC!![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
With that magic wbo2, you'll know if your stupid engine-destroying relay is on the blink, a hose has come off, or your latest bolt-on part or flash has altered mixtures any.
Rich
Well, in my book, anyone who wants to look after their Ralliart should have a wideband and a decent FMIC!
![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
With that magic wbo2, you'll know if your stupid engine-destroying relay is on the blink, a hose has come off, or your latest bolt-on part or flash has altered mixtures any.
Rich
#3753
Evolved Member
I'm no expert on all the different types. I do know that my LC-1 was really tricky to get working (and I had a dead-on-arrival one). Their support people were good, though... and since it's started working, it's run perfectly.
Anything with a digital serial link should work with EvoScan. Check out EvoScan 2.9's topbar "wideband selection" options.
The OP2.0 can so some standalone wideband logging, either via 2.5mm serial input or via "pin 8" analogue.
All I can say is, make sure you buy it from somewhere that can accept dud returns!![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
Rich
Anything with a digital serial link should work with EvoScan. Check out EvoScan 2.9's topbar "wideband selection" options.
The OP2.0 can so some standalone wideband logging, either via 2.5mm serial input or via "pin 8" analogue.
All I can say is, make sure you buy it from somewhere that can accept dud returns!
![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
Rich
#3754
Evolved Member
The TBE tune, in my opinion, warrants the use of a wideband and fitment of an Evo X FMIC (or better).
Well, in my book, anyone who wants to look after their Ralliart should have a wideband and a decent FMIC!![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
With that magic wbo2, you'll know if your stupid engine-destroying relay is on the blink, a hose has come off, or your latest bolt-on part or flash has altered mixtures any.
Rich
Well, in my book, anyone who wants to look after their Ralliart should have a wideband and a decent FMIC!
![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
With that magic wbo2, you'll know if your stupid engine-destroying relay is on the blink, a hose has come off, or your latest bolt-on part or flash has altered mixtures any.
Rich
1. CBRD FMIC
2. Upgraded fuel relays from SSP
3. My hose is ziptied to keep it from popping off
#3755
Evolved Member
Just so everyone knows, I've nutted out a "P050B DTC Disable" patch. I've just sent it to EvoOtto for advance testing, seeing as he's getting P050B right now.
Another interesting piece of information: The "P050B check" only exists in USDM ROMs - not European/Australian market ROMs. It's not just disabled in my Aussie ROM - the whole function that checks Cold Start Ignition Timing Advance is absent.![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Rich
Another interesting piece of information: The "P050B check" only exists in USDM ROMs - not European/Australian market ROMs. It's not just disabled in my Aussie ROM - the whole function that checks Cold Start Ignition Timing Advance is absent.
![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Rich
#3757
Evolved Member
A straight-out binary disable of the P050B trigger code.
It has a "disable" switch built in. If one of its key working constants is zero, it bypasses. From factory, that constant isn't zero... easily fixed.![Big Grin](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
So this'll be the last we see of the annoying and pointless P050B.
Rich
It has a "disable" switch built in. If one of its key working constants is zero, it bypasses. From factory, that constant isn't zero... easily fixed.
![Big Grin](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
So this'll be the last we see of the annoying and pointless P050B.
Rich
#3758
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
Good stuff![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Just a note for everyone. Always plug you Ralliart in. I did a read up on oil and 90% of engine wear occurs at start up. Here is why: http://toptierimports.com/index.php?topic=118.0
The short version is because oil cannot properly lubricate the engine at a high viscosity. At a cold start up the oil is very honey like and thick and has a high viscosity and takes heat to warm it up to lower the viscosity. As long as you put in a 0W-30 synthetic (and the debate against full or group 3 synths doesnt matter. if it says full syth on the jug its good to go) and keep your car plugged in to keep it warm, you will extend the life of your engine significantly.
![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Just a note for everyone. Always plug you Ralliart in. I did a read up on oil and 90% of engine wear occurs at start up. Here is why: http://toptierimports.com/index.php?topic=118.0
The short version is because oil cannot properly lubricate the engine at a high viscosity. At a cold start up the oil is very honey like and thick and has a high viscosity and takes heat to warm it up to lower the viscosity. As long as you put in a 0W-30 synthetic (and the debate against full or group 3 synths doesnt matter. if it says full syth on the jug its good to go) and keep your car plugged in to keep it warm, you will extend the life of your engine significantly.
#3761
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Purdue University
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hey guys... new here.. i will get an intro post up soon... weather here in Indiana has been crap so my pics are of a dirty 2013 tarmac black ralliart...
any tunes for the 2013 yet? I know ive read of the idle timing being different from the earlier yrs..
Im really interested in doing the 'boost pill' upgrade.. i just feel like the car falls on its face as soon as the boost falls off in the higher rpms.. Thanks guys..
any tunes for the 2013 yet? I know ive read of the idle timing being different from the earlier yrs..
Im really interested in doing the 'boost pill' upgrade.. i just feel like the car falls on its face as soon as the boost falls off in the higher rpms.. Thanks guys..
#3762
Hey guys,
I just had my car dyno on friday. This is based on the 91 Oct map with some changes to the boost limit and the wgdc changes due to boosting higher from using hard pipes and evo x fmic.
There are a few things that need to be fixed such as the clutch slip but, I think the 15 in my afr should be good for crusing and part throttle because it's ideal for gas eco?? I will be working with Richard hopefully to iron out the clutch slip.
I just had my car dyno on friday. This is based on the 91 Oct map with some changes to the boost limit and the wgdc changes due to boosting higher from using hard pipes and evo x fmic.
There are a few things that need to be fixed such as the clutch slip but, I think the 15 in my afr should be good for crusing and part throttle because it's ideal for gas eco?? I will be working with Richard hopefully to iron out the clutch slip.
![lol](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif)
#3763
Evolved Member
As noted in my email, your afr won't be 15:1. It'll be 14.7:1 at idle/cruise in closed loop. That's just run by the factory nbo2 sensor.
At WOT your fuelling looks plenty rich - I'd guess high 10s, low 11s.
Also, no evidence of clutch slip on that particular dyno graph.
Great result.![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Rich
At WOT your fuelling looks plenty rich - I'd guess high 10s, low 11s.
Also, no evidence of clutch slip on that particular dyno graph.
Great result.
![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Rich
#3765
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Costa Mesa, California
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