2009 Lancer Ralliart - GST Basemap
#3811
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sydney
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Hey Rich thanks for all the effort you put into the new maps. The car feels noticeably more responsive and smooth. I also noticed an immediate difference in the exhaust note from my turboback. At startup it used to grumble and now it is smoother and quieter. Also sounds slightly less grumbly under acceleration. I like the new sound, but I can't imagine why remapping would change the exhaust note. Did anyone else notice the same?
#3813
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
gf drove on the new 31.001 she noticed shifts seemed smoother. P050B didnt show up. The car seemed to idle better at start up but then again the gf started the car. I was not able to hear the initial startup.
overall, car seems more "normal" which is a good thing! less but not gone backfire pops when i press on the throttle and then let go suddenly.
overall, car seems more "normal" which is a good thing! less but not gone backfire pops when i press on the throttle and then let go suddenly.
#3814
Need to up the air fuel ratios???? im getting the BATMAN puff of smoke when I go WOT. any answers? im using v30.007. I have not tweaked it yet. at WOT im in 10.5-10.3?
AMS Boost Pill
Evo X FMIC w/ RA Pipes
Custom exhaust Man
AMS Boost Pill
Evo X FMIC w/ RA Pipes
Custom exhaust Man
#3816
Evolved Member
Rich
#3818
Evolved Member
There are a number of tuning threads on this stuff. And there's also the Merlin's Guide to Ralliart/Evo Tuning pdf floating around.
"Lean Spool" is an inaccurate name for it. It is a mechanism that starts out pulling fuel, but the more WOT driving you do, the less "enleanment" occurs. Your final AFRMAP gets closer and closer to the actual fuel table value. Think of it as "Progressive Enrichment" instead of "Lean Spool". And it's got nothing to do with turbo-spool, really.
The more you thrash, the less effect LS has.
When you disable LS, your mixtures will go steenky rich, as they will be exactly in line with your fuel table (at last). You then rework your fuelling to bring mixtures into line with what you want.
Rich
PS. While on the topic of fuelling, Bryan's "TBE" tune is set up with leaner fuelling than the non-TBE maps.
"Lean Spool" is an inaccurate name for it. It is a mechanism that starts out pulling fuel, but the more WOT driving you do, the less "enleanment" occurs. Your final AFRMAP gets closer and closer to the actual fuel table value. Think of it as "Progressive Enrichment" instead of "Lean Spool". And it's got nothing to do with turbo-spool, really.
The more you thrash, the less effect LS has.
When you disable LS, your mixtures will go steenky rich, as they will be exactly in line with your fuel table (at last). You then rework your fuelling to bring mixtures into line with what you want.
Rich
PS. While on the topic of fuelling, Bryan's "TBE" tune is set up with leaner fuelling than the non-TBE maps.
#3819
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PS. While on the topic of fuelling, Bryan's "TBE" tune is set up with leaner fuelling than the non-TBE maps.
#3820
Evolved Member
As with birth control, "hope" is not a method.
A wideband o2 sensor is a must. *
Rich
* May not be an effective method of birth control. But it'll show you your AFRs.
A wideband o2 sensor is a must. *
Rich
* May not be an effective method of birth control. But it'll show you your AFRs.
#3821
Although it's not as pig rich as stock tune, there's a fairly comfortably wide safety margin of rich fueling in the GST maps, I'm sure Bryan set it up that way intentionally. I'm pretty confident most people should be able to pull some fuel for a little extra power if they're willing to tweak their tunes. Yes, a wideband sensor/gauge is a must (as well as a bit of knowledge), and I don't have a boost gauge installed myself, so I just trust that the boost is at wherever it's meant to be at.
And lean spool is effectively a safety device for repeated WOT runs, or when someone gets behind the driver's seat and are overly eager to thrash the car without due care (eg. when you valet or hand over the keys to someone else). Even in Merlin's guide he recommends tuning with lean spool enabled.
And lean spool is effectively a safety device for repeated WOT runs, or when someone gets behind the driver's seat and are overly eager to thrash the car without due care (eg. when you valet or hand over the keys to someone else). Even in Merlin's guide he recommends tuning with lean spool enabled.
#3822
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
My thoughts is that the pop is from the AFR mixture being rich and ignites within the exhaust system, hence my reason for wanting to lean it out a bit. Or is there another method to prevents the pops that I am unaware of?
EDIT: after reading merlins i saw this:
The text in bold.....So my exhaust temperature is hot because the fuel ratio is actually too lean? weird....so i can prevent the popping by actually increasing the AFR... this tuning stuff is confusing.
EDIT: after reading merlins i saw this:
Of course the OCTANE NUMBER would also be dropping which will push fueling
towards the LO-OCTANE FUEL MAP, which will add additional enrichment. This is a
very good if subtle enhancement the stock ECU comes with. It is nice to know it can
throw in 10% extra fuel within six ignition events or three engine revolutions if it
has to. In extremis this should also help to mitigate the rising exhaust gas
temperature that retarding the ignition rapidly would inevitably produce.
On Evo7, AFR trip-point address = 17AE, 160 multiplier = 17B0.
On Evo8, AFR trip-point address = 17AE, 160 multiplier = 17B0.
On Evo9, AFR trip-point address = 13AE, 160 multiplier = 13B0.
Increasing the multiplier will increase the enrichment. This might be a very useful
arrangement on a full race engine, giving an extra safety margin in the event of a
typical plumbing failure.
towards the LO-OCTANE FUEL MAP, which will add additional enrichment. This is a
very good if subtle enhancement the stock ECU comes with. It is nice to know it can
throw in 10% extra fuel within six ignition events or three engine revolutions if it
has to. In extremis this should also help to mitigate the rising exhaust gas
temperature that retarding the ignition rapidly would inevitably produce.
On Evo7, AFR trip-point address = 17AE, 160 multiplier = 17B0.
On Evo8, AFR trip-point address = 17AE, 160 multiplier = 17B0.
On Evo9, AFR trip-point address = 13AE, 160 multiplier = 13B0.
Increasing the multiplier will increase the enrichment. This might be a very useful
arrangement on a full race engine, giving an extra safety margin in the event of a
typical plumbing failure.
Last edited by crak; Jan 16, 2013 at 07:42 AM.
#3823
Evolved Member
And lean spool is effectively a safety device for repeated WOT runs, or when someone gets behind the driver's seat and are overly eager to thrash the car without due care (eg. when you valet or hand over the keys to someone else). Even in Merlin's guide he recommends tuning with lean spool enabled.
But for stuff like repeated track/drag driving, it's not ideal. I saw situations at the track where my engine didn't WANT the leaner mixture. Specifically, after lining up for a while (ie. hot engine), then firing out of the blocks. Lean Spool doesn't take into account stuff like heatsoak - it's just timer-based, with a short memory.
So do adjust your tuning strategy to suit the expected use of the vehicle.
And note that these Base Maps aren't track day tunes.
Rich
#3824
Evolved Member
My thoughts is that the pop is from the AFR mixture being rich and ignites within the exhaust system, hence my reason for wanting to lean it out a bit. Or is there another method to prevents the pops that I am unaware of?
EDIT: after reading merlins i saw this:
The text in bold.....So my exhaust temperature is hot because the fuel ratio is actually too lean? weird....so i can prevent the popping by actually increasing the AFR... this tuning stuff is confusing.
EDIT: after reading merlins i saw this:
The text in bold.....So my exhaust temperature is hot because the fuel ratio is actually too lean? weird....so i can prevent the popping by actually increasing the AFR... this tuning stuff is confusing.
Rich
#3825
Normal AFR Range?
I have a 2011 Ralliart with TBE basemap installed and I just recently started monitoring my AFR ratios. My question is what is the expected normal range that I should be seeing? It normally idles at 14.x and as I accelerate it ranges anywhere from 12-15, sometimes dipping into 11. If I take foot off the accelerator (like going down a hill), it almost immediately shoots to 20 and stays there until I get back on the gas. Is that normal behavior? Thanks for being patient with a newb.