2009 Lancer Ralliart - GST Basemap
Jan 17, 2014, 06:31 PM
#4381
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I got mine from Modern Automotive Performance www.maperformance.com. They were happy to ship internationally.
There were also a couple on the US ebay site but with shipping they were getting a little expensive.
There were also a couple on the US ebay site but with shipping they were getting a little expensive.
Jan 17, 2014, 08:32 PM
#4382
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Jan 21, 2014, 03:19 AM
#4384
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I got mine from Modern Automotive Performance www.maperformance.com. They were happy to ship internationally.
There were also a couple on the US ebay site but with shipping they were getting a little expensive.
There were also a couple on the US ebay site but with shipping they were getting a little expensive.
Another question:
I have read that in the new version of ecuflash you can not clear the dtc, in wich older version of ecuflash can you? I'll will load the GST basemap as soon as i get my taxtric cable.
Jan 21, 2014, 05:15 AM
#4385
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Jan 21, 2014, 10:37 AM
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I'm using 1.43.3150, and it clears DTCs just fine.
I don't want to "upgrade" to the version of EcuFlash that no longer offers "Clear DTCs". It seems like a big step backwards!
If I remember correctly, the reason the engine light comes on after flashing is that the ECU is seen as going AWOL while the operation is in progress. Comms timeout, or some such thing. It's a two-step operation - flash, clear.
Rich
I don't want to "upgrade" to the version of EcuFlash that no longer offers "Clear DTCs". It seems like a big step backwards!
If I remember correctly, the reason the engine light comes on after flashing is that the ECU is seen as going AWOL while the operation is in progress.
Comms timeout, or some such thing. It's a two-step operation - flash, clear.Rich
http://www.evoscan.com/free-ecu-rom-downloads - here can you find it i bit down on the site.
Last edited by Wille; Jan 21, 2014 at 10:44 AM.
Jan 23, 2014, 03:05 AM
#4388
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^. I am not quite sure what richardjh was getting at. He seemed to be saying that the latest version of ECU Flash had lost the Clear DTC function. I have v1.44.3721 and can confirm that it does have a Clear DTC function and it does work .... mostly.
EvoScan also has a clear DTC function although some on this forum are saying that its clear DTC function gone a bit buggy with version 2.9.
The Engine Warning light can be a persistent bugger.
I reflashed with 2009 RA_AUS_EDM_BaseMap_BoostPILL V31.003 about a week ago. EvoScan 2.9 wasn't able to find and display any codes after the first DTC clear. After numerous DTC clear attempts with both EvoScan and EcuFlash the warning light finally disappeared.
It re-appeared today about 10 minutes into my commute. Once again EvoScan failed to read and display any codes and neither EvoScan or EcuFlash was doing any good clearing the light. I finally cleared it with ECUFlash while the motor was running. Hopefully it won't come back.
I am going to load older versions of both EvoScan and EcuFlash for back-up in case it re-appears
EvoScan also has a clear DTC function although some on this forum are saying that its clear DTC function gone a bit buggy with version 2.9.
The Engine Warning light can be a persistent bugger.
I reflashed with 2009 RA_AUS_EDM_BaseMap_BoostPILL V31.003 about a week ago. EvoScan 2.9 wasn't able to find and display any codes after the first DTC clear. After numerous DTC clear attempts with both EvoScan and EcuFlash the warning light finally disappeared.
It re-appeared today about 10 minutes into my commute. Once again EvoScan failed to read and display any codes and neither EvoScan or EcuFlash was doing any good clearing the light. I finally cleared it with ECUFlash while the motor was running. Hopefully it won't come back.
I am going to load older versions of both EvoScan and EcuFlash for back-up in case it re-appears
Jan 23, 2014, 03:28 AM
#4389
Evolved Member
Well, glad to hear EcuFlash can do this again. Me, I'm in full Luddite mode - using WinXP and EcuFlash 1.43.3150 on my trusty Asus Netbook... Not even one that transforms into a tablet (or a giant robot).
Rich
Rich
Jan 24, 2014, 08:45 AM
#4390
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I just got the P050B code this morning on my 2009 RA with the v3.0 boostpill map. Temp outside was ~43F. Was there a patch or fix for this that I am not finding in my searches?
Jan 25, 2014, 04:01 AM
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Is the GST base tune too aggressive for hot weather?
We have recently been through a heatwave here with a couple of days over 40 deg C (105 F). I ran a couple of WOT runs one evening when the temperature had dropped to about 35 C running the 2010 AUS/EDM - 98 ron - BoostPill - V31.003 and was concerned about the knocksums as high as 15. I backgraded to 2009 AUS/EDM - 98 ron - BoostPill - V31.003 and tried a few runs a couple of days later, once again in ambient temperatures of about 35 C for similar results. CSVs of a couple of typical runs are attached.
A couple of days later, with the same tank of fuel in 22 C ambient temperatures knock levels were back to “normal”.
For the 3rd gear pulls I dispense with mechanical sympathy and run to the fuel cutout, after all this can sometimes happen in the real world when manually shifting. We really don’t run into problems until past the 6500 rpm redline. You can see the timing retarding in response to knock but frankly I expected it to be more aggressive in retarding in order to protect the motor, especially when repeated occurrences keep pushing knocksum up higher. If you look carefully at the plot below you can see advance being increased when the knock sum decreases from 8 to 7 and again when it falls to 6 only for another knock instance to occur.
According to Virtual Dyno this tune gives useful horsepower out to the fuel cutout at 7396 rpm. Perhaps razorlab might want to jump in here and tell us whether he ran past 6500 rpm in his tuning.
The standing start runs were performed in automatic SST Sport mode. As the shift point is 6,500 in 3rd we avoided any knock there but 4th and 5th were a different story with knock across the range. I notice that the boost level is higher and the boost curve fatter in these gears as well. Could this be something to do with the boost control RPM/MPH crossover?
I’m a total rookie here but I think that I am looking at two separate issues:
• The 6,500 to 7,500 maps
• Boost or timing control in gears 4,5&6
I don't see any manifold air temp dependent tables to bring things down a notch or two in hot weather. Any suggestions out there?
CSVs
We have recently been through a heatwave here with a couple of days over 40 deg C (105 F). I ran a couple of WOT runs one evening when the temperature had dropped to about 35 C running the 2010 AUS/EDM - 98 ron - BoostPill - V31.003 and was concerned about the knocksums as high as 15. I backgraded to 2009 AUS/EDM - 98 ron - BoostPill - V31.003 and tried a few runs a couple of days later, once again in ambient temperatures of about 35 C for similar results. CSVs of a couple of typical runs are attached.
A couple of days later, with the same tank of fuel in 22 C ambient temperatures knock levels were back to “normal”.
For the 3rd gear pulls I dispense with mechanical sympathy and run to the fuel cutout, after all this can sometimes happen in the real world when manually shifting. We really don’t run into problems until past the 6500 rpm redline. You can see the timing retarding in response to knock but frankly I expected it to be more aggressive in retarding in order to protect the motor, especially when repeated occurrences keep pushing knocksum up higher. If you look carefully at the plot below you can see advance being increased when the knock sum decreases from 8 to 7 and again when it falls to 6 only for another knock instance to occur.
According to Virtual Dyno this tune gives useful horsepower out to the fuel cutout at 7396 rpm. Perhaps razorlab might want to jump in here and tell us whether he ran past 6500 rpm in his tuning.
The standing start runs were performed in automatic SST Sport mode. As the shift point is 6,500 in 3rd we avoided any knock there but 4th and 5th were a different story with knock across the range. I notice that the boost level is higher and the boost curve fatter in these gears as well. Could this be something to do with the boost control RPM/MPH crossover?
I’m a total rookie here but I think that I am looking at two separate issues:
• The 6,500 to 7,500 maps
• Boost or timing control in gears 4,5&6
I don't see any manifold air temp dependent tables to bring things down a notch or two in hot weather. Any suggestions out there?
CSVs
Last edited by ExRotary; Jan 25, 2014 at 03:19 PM.
Jan 25, 2014, 02:25 PM
#4393
Evolving Member
I just noticed there isn't a 93OCT-Boost Pill-AEM map I'm stock except for a K&N drop in and AMS Boost Pill. I have that map flashed and it's great. I was wanting to order an AEM intake but don't have the exhaust done yet. Can I install the AEM intake and keep running the map I am currently? Thanks
Jan 25, 2014, 04:14 PM
#4394
Remember, it's a basemap. If you are finding knock at high RPM because of heatsoak in 95-105F (35-40c) weather then take a couple degrees out at that RPM range, and/or take some boost out.
The stock RA fmic can barely cool the the OEM tune at those temps. Here is a post of mine from way back for reference: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/8375796-post169.html
The stock RA fmic can barely cool the the OEM tune at those temps. Here is a post of mine from way back for reference: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/8375796-post169.html
Last edited by razorlab; Jan 25, 2014 at 04:18 PM.
Jan 25, 2014, 07:25 PM
#4395
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I'm not complaining, these basemaps work brilliantly as downloaded. In fact they probably work too well. I was getting sucked into flash and forget mode.
Yeah the temperatures are running away - see below. Just as well I didn't try this in the heat of the day, another 6 or 7 degrees at the inlet would have pushed the MAT well over 70 C (160 F).
I still want to bring this thing back to stock for dealer servicing and warranty preservation. Swapping intercoolers before and after services is looking like a bit too much of a chore.
Maybe I could flash a summer and winter tune. Or I could just keep off the accelerator when the temperature creeps up.
In fact they probably work too well. I was getting sucked into flash and forget mode. Yeah the temperatures are running away - see below. Just as well I didn't try this in the heat of the day, another 6 or 7 degrees at the inlet would have pushed the MAT well over 70 C (160 F).
I still want to bring this thing back to stock for dealer servicing and warranty preservation. Swapping intercoolers before and after services is looking like a bit too much of a chore.
Maybe I could flash a summer and winter tune. Or I could just keep off the accelerator when the temperature creeps up.