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2009 Lancer Ralliart - GST Basemap

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Old Mar 1, 2014, 09:46 PM
  #4426  
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Originally Posted by Slee256
No, 22.5psi isn't too high. Mine hits 23.5 peak.
What would be considered over boosting? How high IS too high?
Old Mar 3, 2014, 03:11 PM
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The 93oct TBE maps have target boost set at 23.2psi (4000-5000rpm). After that, the boost targets taper off (21.1psi @ 6000rpm, 16.8 @ 7000rpm).


Originally Posted by Rralliart09
This is at WOT and mid to high 11s on the AFR.
Bryan can comment on the TBE tune mixtures. Me, I'd be okay with mid-11s, but not so comfortable with high 11s... if you're talking about a "non-personalised" base map tune.

Rich

Last edited by richardjh; Mar 3, 2014 at 03:16 PM.
Old Mar 3, 2014, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by richardjh
The 93oct TBE maps have target boost set at 23.2psi (4000-5000rpm). After that, the boost targets taper off (21.1psi @ 6000rpm, 16.8 @ 7000rpm).




Bryan can comment on the TBE tune mixtures. Me, I'd be okay with mid-11s, but not so comfortable with high 11s... if you're talking about a "non-personalised" base map tune.

Rich
I got that backwards. I meant low 11s like 11.2 11.3. My boost gauge recall shows my peak boost was 23psi and it does taper off. So it's working as it should. I gotta send you a donation now that I'm done with the build. Seriously the GST base map is awesome. I could use some help on logging though. My AFR controller is a prosport and has a three wire lead that says it's for logging. One end plugs into the controller and the other it just three bare wires. What do I do with those wires?
Old Mar 4, 2014, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Rralliart09
I got that backwards. I meant low 11s like 11.2 11.3.
Ah, well, that's a whole different kettle of eggs! Low 11.2-11.3 is a great place for it to run, right out of the box.


Originally Posted by Rralliart09
My boost gauge recall shows my peak boost was 23psi and it does taper off. So it's working as it should. I gotta send you a donation now that I'm done with the build. Seriously the GST base map is awesome. I could use some help on logging though. My AFR controller is a prosport and has a three wire lead that says it's for logging. One end plugs into the controller and the other it just three bare wires. What do I do with those wires?
No idea! I use Innovate LC-1, and don't have direct experience with other brands. Not a pro tuner, you see. I'm just the software geek. :P

Rich
Old Mar 5, 2014, 03:29 AM
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3 Port

I've caught the modifications bug! SpoolinUp is selling GM 3 ports and harnesses for bugger all and I couldn't help myself. One should be on its way shortly.

I am currently running the boost pill base map v31.003. Any pointers out there as to a suitable set of initial adjustments that should be done to start things out in safe territory?

I haven't thought this thing through nearly enough yet. On first look I figure:
  1. At zero WGDC I expect that the 3 port and 2 port systems (stock & boost pill) will perform identically - full boost pressure is applied to assist the wastegate to open.
  2. At 100% WGDC the stock system will apply the largest portion of boost pressure to the wastegate, the boost pill will apply less of the boost pressure to the wastegate, and the 3 port will apply no boost pressure to the wastegate.
  3. Therefore, at any point in the boost/rev range I would expect that the 3 port would require less WGDC than the boost pill settings in order to achieve the same outcome
  4. So the safest thing might be to start at 0 WGDC and work up.
Now my head hurts and I need little lie down.

Last edited by ExRotary; Mar 5, 2014 at 03:33 AM.
Old Mar 5, 2014, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ExRotary
Your 1st two screen shots show normal ECUFlash behaviour. Checking an item in the tree structure opens the related window which informs you that mode 23 on that item is enabled. After writing to the ECU did you then "Compare to ECU" to confirm that the flash was successful?

Your 3rd shot is the EvoScan opening window. This bit is a concern:

Were you hooked up to the ECU at the time? Even with the ignition off the OpenPort should be picking up 12V from the battery when you start the data logger.

If you are hooking up and the OpenPort is seeing 12V, open the Logging menu item and ensure that you have "Log Data to Screen" selected. Then:
Scroll down the log items until you find "Accel Pedal Position"
"Start DataLogger"
Turn Ignition on. No need to start the car. You should see "Received Data" (above the Event Log) spring into action
Depress the accelerator. You should see the Accel Pedal Position reading change.
You can then start the car and check the other readings, starting with RPM
The 3rd shot is when I accidentally hit 'start logging' without it plugged into the car. Forgot to mention that.

I'll try those steps when I get a chance. I hadn't done anything like that. If all that is working as intended, would that fix my reading issues? No matter what I've done it's read 35k RPM and 420lb of boost every time. Logging to computer or to the SD card.
Old Mar 5, 2014, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ExRotary
I've caught the modifications bug! SpoolinUp is selling GM 3 ports and harnesses for bugger all and I couldn't help myself. One should be on its way shortly.

I am currently running the boost pill base map v31.003. Any pointers out there as to a suitable set of initial adjustments that should be done to start things out in safe territory?

I haven't thought this thing through nearly enough yet. On first look I figure:
  1. At zero WGDC I expect that the 3 port and 2 port systems (stock & boost pill) will perform identically - full boost pressure is applied to assist the wastegate to open.
  2. At 100% WGDC the stock system will apply the largest portion of boost pressure to the wastegate, the boost pill will apply less of the boost pressure to the wastegate, and the 3 port will apply no boost pressure to the wastegate.
  3. Therefore, at any point in the boost/rev range I would expect that the 3 port would require less WGDC than the boost pill settings in order to achieve the same outcome
  4. So the safest thing might be to start at 0 WGDC and work up.
Now my head hurts and I need little lie down.

Yep, you've got it. Start at 0% to get a sanity-check of your installation. You should run wastegate pressure only, eg. around 10-11psi.

Then work up in stages, keeping it safe. Like, 20% across the board.

Here's an excerpt of something I wrote in another thread, showing how I tune my own boost (and my boost control setup seems to have made it into the v3.1 base maps :P)...


Checking Boost Levels - The Easy Way

There are many different ways of setting, managing and fine-tuning boost. The v27 Base Maps work use one particular method, and the notes below work well for that specific method. It may not translate effectively to other boost tuning approaches... but I'm keeping it tightly focused here! So here goes...

The initial WOT boost peak is the key to fine-tuning your overall boost.




Check it like this:
In 3rd gear, SPORT MANUAL mode, coast down with no throttle.
When you reach a set rpm, apply full throttle.
Let boost build, peak and level out.
Get off the throttle.
Review.
Your "set rpm" for starting such tests should be 2000rpm, 2500rpm, 3000rpm, 3500rpm, 4000rpm.

The initial "peak" boost level is predominantly determined by your BWGDC table. Sure, there is error correction processing active in the ECU, but your spool-up occurs so fast there's no chance of it "catching" an overboost condition and getting the wastegate to somehow open on-target. Won't happen.

On initial spool-up, your wastegate-open point will be driven by your BWGDC Table, pure and simple.

So perform WOT spool-up tests, and check your initial peak.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


The other thing to realise is that your boost error correction table may need revising for a 3-port. That's "Direct Boost" / "Target Boost Error Correction". You might find smaller values work better, as the 3-port is more sensitive.

I reckon you should spin this off into a separate thread. It'll get lost in this GST Base Map mega-thread, and isn't really on-topic once you start using a 3-port.

Rich
Old Mar 5, 2014, 08:11 PM
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any idea ?

i just flash the 09 ralliart with boost-pill map on a friend's ralliart, but we're having a problem. The boost is not "soft"

when i check on virtual Dyno, i got a wave....

car is stock, exept boost-pill and drop-in

https://www.mediafire.com/folder/k8hyvfw1gg1rd/

Here's both pull

3rd gear pull


4th gear pull


Any Queue ?
Old Mar 6, 2014, 02:01 AM
  #4434  
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^ Wow 337Hp on a boost pill. Oh, its at 4,000 rpm --- just set your redline to 4,500 rpm and reset your expectations.

I dunno. I'm just a beginner too.

Its likely to be something pretty obvious. Let me guess:
  • BoostPill in wrong leg?
  • Boost Pill blocked?
  • No hole in boost pill?
  • Hose blown off?
  • Hose never connected?
If none of those is obviously wrong, I'd start to suspect the wastegate. I'd go back to the stock pill, flash the Stock RA GST basemap (get the v31.003 map - link at the top of page 1), switch to RAX logging, and start doing part throttle pulls, pulling out early in the rev range then work up from there.

When you sort it settle back and have a laugh. There is no sign of serious knock in your 2 logs. You probably haven't damaged anything .... yet.
Old Mar 6, 2014, 02:59 AM
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WOW 28psi? Did you see any smoke coming out? I see high knocks of 8,9 and 12 too..
Try using Rax fast logging.
Either logging isn't right or you have serious issues man.
Im guessing your over boosting and ecu is trying to correct things to bring it down and a repeated pattern of overboost and correcting on and on.
Maybe redcue WGDC?
I'm just guessing.. better wait for the experts to chime in.
Old Mar 6, 2014, 04:59 AM
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Got told by our in house tuner Kassender that is might be : Or a exaust manifolt leak, or a boost leak. he's gonna give it a check this week, he's putting his car on standby for now.

At least i'm happy we've find one of the problem. Car was tuned when previous owner had it, and he put it back to stock, without removing the boost-pill....so this is fixed, but now, gotta fix the weird boosting
Old Mar 6, 2014, 03:35 PM
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Urk. Those look pretty bad. Glad you've got a tuner there in person to sort it out.

Rich
Old Mar 6, 2014, 05:17 PM
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Good news ! (If i can say so) there's a crack on the exaust manifold ! So now we probably know where's the problem coming from ! he's trying to fix that by the end of next week, we'll keep you informed ^_^
Old Mar 6, 2014, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by DJEllipse
Good news ! (If i can say so) there's a crack on the exaust manifold ! So now we probably know where's the problem coming from ! he's trying to fix that by the end of next week, we'll keep you informed ^_^
Crack in the manifold causes total loss of boost control?

I reckon that there will be other problems to track down once that is fixed.
Old Mar 7, 2014, 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ExRotary
Crack in the manifold causes total loss of boost control?

I reckon that there will be other problems to track down once that is fixed.
You would think that wilt cause a drop in boost, not an increase. No?


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