richardjh

Yeah, the regular boostpill map is still pretty rich.

Bryan's "boostpill+TBE" maps run higher boost and aren't as rich. As a consequence, I'm erring on the side of caution.


There sure is... it's just not posted up here for general use.


Feel free to email me at raxpatch {at} gmail {dot} com and ask for it. Happy to send it out if it means it'll be AFR-tested via wideband.


Rich

Rralliart09

Really? TBE stands for Turbo Back Exhaust....think about it....yes that qualifies but you'll probably want to just get a whole system made up since it sounds like you're going the custom route like I did.

r1concepts

iTrader: (16)

danike

What is XML files for? You don't need those in order to flash a GST basemap to your car do you? I just downloaded the .HEX from the 1st page and said "write to ECU". That's all you have to do correct?

richardjh

If you have no XML whatsoever for the 8-digit ECU ID that's inside the ROM image, then EcuFlash will simply refuse to touch it at all. So you do kind of need "an" XML for the ROM.

However, it doesn't have to actually contain anything beyond a basic header. Not if you just want to flash it and be done.

If you want to see/edit table data for that ROM, though, the XML is what defines all the available table views. Those are usually ROM-ID-specific, as the data moves around all over the place from version to version.

If that didn't make sense at all, I apologise.

Rich

TForce13

I'm not sure where to "reply", so I'm just going to add to this massive thread. I did the Stock Pill map last week, and the Boost Pill upgrade last night. All I can says is:

Smooth, Accessible Power!!!

Not Dyno'd or even Virtual Dyno'd yet, but I would believe 25-30 WHP gains. Here is what I loaded:

2010_RA_USDM_BaseMap_BoostPILL_93oct_V31.003.hex

Needless to say, I am super stoked for the rest of my Stage 1 Mods, following the progression of these maps.

Cheers,
TForce13

danike

Rich, my 09 RA is running lean with my current map, I'd like to get it tweaked but don't know who/where to contact. I'm sure there are other members who would like a tweak of these basemaps to get more power/mpg/etc. Do you have any suggestions?

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Have logs? how lean?

danike

I don't want to take this thread off the accomplishments/improvements this basemap has helped every Ralliart owner so I'll keep my issue (which is an outlier to the hundreds of people who are running flawlessly) short and to the point. At idle, I'm between 16.5-18.4. At WOT, turbo spool up is 12-14 and as I'm peak boost its 14-17.

As I said earlier, I'm ready to pay for an E-Tune service to keep my car safe. PM if you know of anyone.

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

What do your current fuel trims look like? That will tell us a good amount. Also, IPW/IDC.

If you are on stock MAF and your idle AFR's are out of spec, then it's a hardware problem, not a software problem. I would look for any leaks post and pre MAF, Turbo, etc.

I assume you have already checked the FPR hose?

Slee256

Come on man, forget the Etune crap and all this fuss about the GST basemap, just put your car on a REAL dyno at a reputable tuning shop and be done with it.

Rralliart09

This may be a silly question but did you free air calibrate your AFR sensor?

richardjh

As Bryan (razorlab) said, an E-Tune won't "fix" anything here. Your car itself has a problem which you need to find, or you'll break something really expensive.


Irrespective of the tune, the ECU uses the front narrowband oxygen sensor at idle to see if the mixture is richer or leaner than 14.7:1... ie. stoichometric. That factory o2 sensor is hard-set at 14.7:1. This isn't something that can be changed. This mode of operation is called "closed loop" mode.

If the ECU sees "rich side", it adjusts the fuel trim to take out a bit of fuel. If it sees "lean side", it adjusts fuel trim the other way. At a certain point, if there's a problem, it'll max out its fuel trim percentage adjustment, and you've reached the limit of its closed-loop correction.

Now, if you're not idling around 14.7:1, either...

1. Your aftermarket wideband o2 sensor/gauge is wrong, or

2. You have a mechanical problem, like...
- Factory front o2 sensor is busted (ie. it is lying to the ECU)
- Something is reducing fuel delivery... so badly that fuel trim can't correct for it.
- Something is adding in unmetered air... so badly that fuel trim can't correct for it.


That's pretty much it, really.


By the way, if your mixture is 14:1 to 17:1 at peak boost, for the love of God, don't drive the car.

I hope you get it fixed. Actually, I hope your wideband is just wildly out of calibration.

Rich

danike

I think I found my problem. Does anyone know what this hose does? It wasn't plugged in.

Zoomed Out

Zoomed In

Rralliart09

Isn't that the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line? That's the one that has a habit of blowing off and needs to be zip tied. I went ahead and zip tied all my vacuum lines just to be safe.