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That 2009 AUS/EDM ROM ID was something like 53610010. We didn't bother making untold combinations of that, as the 2010 "53610013" ROM ID was perfectly suitable instead.
But "93 oct"? The AUS/EDM one was tagged as "98 RON", as that's how our fuel is specced.
Sounds like you might be after "2010_RA_AUS_EDM_BaseMap_BoostPILL_TBE_AEM_98ron_V 31.003"...
Rich
Hey my apologies my car is a JDM version. The USDM Roms don’t load onto my car. The RON is 98 as well you are correct. We use RON 95 here in my country. But seeing that my car is a 2009 it’s ok to use to a 2010 map? To get the AMS Boost Pill, TBE and AEM CAI? Well from the AUS/EDM map.
Multiple approaches, and a great deal of testing! For the "v3" base maps, it boiled down to:
- Identifying which tables were used by the ECU to calculate "Requested Torque" style values in different situations.
- Working out how "Requested Torque" prompted the SST to reduce or induce clutch slip. Interestingly, quite a few tables deliberately induced clutch slip.
- Looking through many different ECU ROM images, particularly Evo X images, to see how X ECU SST-related tables different from the factory-detuned Ralliart equivalents.
- Finding ways to modify and blend the GST Base Map tables to promote higher SST hydraulic clutch pressure where appropriate.
The hardest part was actually trying to minimise unpleasant side-effects, and to do so across the different RA markets, manufacturing years, etc. There was a period during the development of the latest version where a large community effort took experimental base maps, tested them, gave feedback, then moved on to the next version. This iterative testing really helped to smooth things out.
Cheers,
Rich
I've recently flashed a 56940014 2011 RA to V 3.1 GST, and noticed that the shifts in Super Sport mode (flashed/upgraded SST) feel a little less sharp/abrupt. Is there any possibility the factory `14 ROM which corrected some SST torque request pressures actually requests more clutch pressure than your GST map? Which values/tables would you suggest to modify to get much firmer shifts? (nobody here cares about unpleasant things related to shifting as long as the trans/clutches last)
Haven't yet had time to dig into the factory ROM to find the SST tables myself, hopefully its not too difficult.
Thanks for any info.
Edit: I've just checked one table, and indeed it is different in the `14 ROM, specifically they request higher pressures at low rpm in Map A. (haven't had time to dig through all the addresses yet)
I've dug even more into it, and there are lots of changes to the SST tables in the GST maps. And I have found some posts by you in other places stating that this is about "drivability" and stuff and not handling torque.
Anyway, let me rephrase the question then: which tables should be reset to revert the SST shifting or to make it overall harsher/sharper with more pressure, while not touching stuff that you changed to prevent knock during shifts?
I'm looking for a tune that shifts hard and applies sufficient clutch pressures to not slip (within what is reasonable/possible). No reason to wear out clutch packs for comfort over here. Appreciate the fuel/timing/boost control changes you have made however and all the reverse engineering. Just need something different from the SST maps
I've dug even more into it, and there are lots of changes to the SST tables in the GST maps. And I have found some posts by you in other places stating that this is about "drivability" and stuff and not handling torque.
Anyway, let me rephrase the question then: which tables should be reset to revert the SST shifting or to make it overall harsher/sharper with more pressure, while not touching stuff that you changed to prevent knock during shifts?
I'm looking for a tune that shifts hard and applies sufficient clutch pressures to not slip (within what is reasonable/possible). No reason to wear out clutch packs for comfort over here. Appreciate the fuel/timing/boost control changes you have made however and all the reverse engineering. Just need something different from the SST maps
Just flash Super Sport Mode onto your car's computer. That's what I did and it worked great to firm up shifts and reduce clutch slippage!
Just flash Super Sport Mode onto your car's computer. That's what I did and it worked great to firm up shifts and reduce clutch slippage!
I'm actually talking specifically about SS Mode (and in manual shift mode).
Don't really use the other 2 modes.
It's taking a while to map all the SST tables to the 0014 and 0007 ROM, but I am nearly there. Then I will try to figure out how to blend these suckers for something a bit more racy/harsh and thus SST clutch friendly. (talking about an upgraded clutch pack as well FWIW)
So what's really fascinating with the GST tables so far are the SST Torque Limit 2/3/4 tables, which are lower than the Throttle Requested Torque maps. This is inverse to the 56940014 latest recall Mitsu flash, and opposite to the description of those Limit Maps by people like Kozmic.
Though I did find an OLDER evo map that also had lower limits than requests (so i guess one just takes prio over the other?)
See attached
Delta between Torque Limit and Torque Requested MAPS
Last edited by bn880; Sep 24, 2021 at 11:20 AM.
Reason: added detla attachments
I've dug even more into it, and there are lots of changes to the SST tables in the GST maps. And I have found some posts by you in other places stating that this is about "drivability" and stuff and not handling torque.
Anyway, let me rephrase the question then: which tables should be reset to revert the SST shifting or to make it overall harsher/sharper with more pressure, while not touching stuff that you changed to prevent knock during shifts?
I'm looking for a tune that shifts hard and applies sufficient clutch pressures to not slip (within what is reasonable/possible). No reason to wear out clutch packs for comfort over here. Appreciate the fuel/timing/boost control changes you have made however and all the reverse engineering. Just need something different from the SST maps
Hiya.
It's interesting to see that Mitsu modified some of this stuff.
You can have a really interesting time playing with stuff like this. Here are a few things to be aware of:
> which tables should be reset to revert the SST shifting or to make it overall harsher/sharper with more pressure,
> while not touching stuff that you changed to prevent knock during shifts?
These are the ones I would suggest:
SST Clutch Pressure Ramp Up - Map A/B/C
Throttle Requested Torque Map #1/2/3
SST Torque Limit #2/3/4
SST DISengagement/Downshift Map
SST Engagement Map A/B/C
SST Torque Map #1/2/3
Note that some of these tables are named differently in peoples' XMLs. These are the big 2-dimensional array tables with RPM as vert axis, and Throttle or Load as horiz axis.
Modifying these shouldn't affect boost, ignition timing, fuelling, MIVEC or any such thing.
Which ones NOT to modify?
Recommend against reverting these:
"Torque Reduction on exceedance" aka "SST Throttle Requested Torque Subtractor Map" (adds deliberate clutch slip - zeroed out in GST)
"SST Throttle Requested Torque Ramp Rate Interval A" (GST reduced these values from stock)
"Requested Torque Ramp Rate - SST xxxx Mode" (GST increased these values from stock)
Side-effects to watch out for, and TRAPS to avoid
A million things! This stuff is a side-effect bonanza. If you're going to bring in a different ROM's versions of SST tables:
Don't replace tables that are "all zeroes in left column" style (factory) with tables that do NOT have this style. Doing this causes problems; there are complex interactions between tables we're simply not in a position to see and understand, so don't poke the bear. If you bring up comparisons between stock and GST Base Maps, you'll see what I mean. Our final version ROM images never modified the style of the far-left "throttle %" or "load" column.
The top-left quadrant of the SST maps (ie. light-throttle, light-load, moderate-rpm) are all pretty good as they are from factory. If you start playing with aggressive edits at any point, keep the around-town section of the map pretty stock, and keep your modding to the harder driving areas.
Downshifts can be messed up very easily by SST table edits. If you've modified something and get a delayed reaction to a paddle downshift, that's a sign you've touched a Bad Thing. This may be worse than a delay - you can get delays, then an insta-drop downshift which makes you want to get out and walk home.
Don't be too quick to judge your SST-edit ECU reflash. Give it a few days of driving before you try to get a sense of how your SST torque tables really affect things. After something like 600 reflashes, I've learned not to jump to immediate conclusions; my experience is that the transmission "tightens up" its clutch activity after an ECU reflash. I have no idea why that might be!
Drive the car in granny-AUTO mode as part of your testing. You need the car to not do crazy stuff in AUTO mode.
Avoid increasing values in the "Throttle Requested Torque - Liftoff" table, RPM ranges 500-2000, below 50% throttle. If you do, the AUTO mode "warmed-up" driving will be beset by harsh vibrations. Yes, AUTO mode likes to lug the engine at very low rpm using a tall gear, and it's annoying. But it's a lot MORE annoying when the hydraulic clutch is transferring heaps of NVH into your back teeth. So leave those table areas alone, and let the clutch slip when in AUTO, low load, low RPM. It's just someone going to the shops for milk in your car, they won't destroy anything.
Finally, be aware that the v3 GST Base Maps were nutted out thanks to MASSIVE amounts of trial-and-error testing, by loads of us from this thread. This took a lot of time, and many reflashes. It was a true crowdsourced approach to sounding out what worked (5% of edits) and what caused side effects (95% of edits). Most side-effects were minor - stuff like harshness in odd situations. Some, however, were quite unpleasant, and not something you'd ever want to see inflicted on people who are aiming to IMPROVE their car's driveability! So take care with your edits, and take your time.
Good luck!
Cheers,
Rich
Recommend you start a dedicated thread for this. As soon as you start modding from the "GST Base Map" original, you're off the beaten track, and into your own project space. Drop us a link to your thread, if you make one, so there's a reference to it for future readers.
I just finished testing the table changes I made and flashed throughout yesterday (before your post actually), and all is good now. (just need to lean out the mixture but that's totally another matter and much simpler other than lean spool nonsense)
Didn't see any big issues in auto mode either, works for me!
Just FYI SST wise what I changed was:
SST Clutch Pressure Ramp Up - Map A,B,C (some areas raised)
SST Clutch Pressure Ramp Up - Reduction vs CTS (lessen some warmup routine above 0c)
SST Torque Limit #1 - Error
SST Torque Limit #2 - Hot/Interpolated
SST Torque Limit #3 - Cold/Interpolated
Not sure if I found the "SST DISengagement/Downshift Map" it might be called something else in my XML.
Also, I will try to post my updated XML with most of the SST tables in another existing thread of mine for 56940014 later on. For anyone else who wants to mess and analyze it.
Stock RA + BoostPill upgrade= A stock RA with the BoostPill Upgrade
Stock RA + BoostPill upgrade + TBE:= BoostPill Upgrade and a Turbo Back Exhaust system which means a high flow cat (or test pipe) plus a catback. A downpipe upgrade is ok but is not necessary. People that ONLY have catbacks should use the Stock RA + BoostPill upgrade BaseMap.
Stock RA + BoostPill upgrade + TBE + AEM Intake:= BoostPill Upgrade and a Turbo Back Exhaust system plus an AEM intake. This means the AEM intake for the RalliartONLY. No other full intakes will work correctly with this base map!
Here is a dynochart showing the typical gains the 91 oct 2009 BaseMap with Upgraded Pill makes over stock: (This test performed Sept 5th)
As you can see the addition of the upgrade boost pill and BaseMap (for upgraded pill) gains much more throughout the meat of the powerband than with just the BaseMap and stock boost pill.
Here is a overlay of the differences between the boost pill upgrade BaseMap and the stock pill Basemap:
What this is:
1. This is for a 100% stock 2009-2010 Lancer Ralliart, stock meaning stock pill, stock intake, stock exhaust, stock everything. (or a stock car with a GST upgraded boost pill and our BaseMap for it)
2. A base map for you to run for a bit more kick than factory
3. A base map to build your own custom tune on if you have aftermarket parts
4. These base maps are based off data that we have collected from custom tuning the 4B11 motor in multiple Ralliarts and Evo 10's. You can see some examples of our tuning on Ralliarts here:
1. Do not use for profit. This is me giving back to the community, use it for good, not evil.
2. Do not use on a RA with a aftermarket intake! Intakes need to be custom tuned with a wideband!
3. Do not use the non-pill BaseMap with a upgraded boost pill!
4. No moaning or requests for changes. It's free.
Some more in depth information about this rom:
1. This was created from multiple 2009-2010 Lancer Ralliarts
2. Boost target is approx 18-19 psi peak (from approx 18 stock), tapering down to 13psi at 7k (from approx 9-10psi stock). For our upgraded boost pill, the boost targets are 20-21psi peak, tapering down to 15psi.
3. Mode23 logging is turned on for your logging pleasure
4. This Rom is provided AS IS with no guarantees or warranties. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK, GST Motorsports is not responsible for any motor damage derived from the use of this rom or variants of.
What you need to flash this to your Ralliart:
1. A laptop. You can find netbooks for $300 and under nowadays, just make sure they are not linux.
You probably also want to log the car and do any adjustments from there. Evoscan v2.6 works with the Mode23 logging already setup in the rom. This can log ignition timing, knock, boost, etc
UPDATE: Tested another 09 Ralliart, Sept 12th, 2009:
1. Select "OpenPort 2.0 (J2534/CAN/EvoX)" radio button
2. Select "CAN 2006+/EvoX" check box
3. Under the "Select ECU" Drop-down, select "mode23 USA RA EVOX"
Check off only these parameters to log:
Throttle Posn
2-Byte RPM
Load (Fuel)
TimingAdv
Knock Sum
PSIG
ActiveWGDC
ActiveWGDCC (Wastegate Duty Cycle correction)
Intake Air Temp
Manifold Air Temp
Coolant Temp
And if you have a wideband, connect it to your laptop and check off the wideband logging in EvoScan.
The best logs would be a full RPM sweep of 3rd and/or 4th gear on a level road. Log the car in Sport Mode so it won't shift on you.
Sep 15, 2021, 04:46 AM
What to reset for hard shifts?
(so i guess one just takes prio over the other?)
