2009 Lancer Ralliart - GST Basemap
Sep 4, 2010, 01:57 PM
#991
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The ECU light will come on everytime you change maps, unless you clear the code once your done.
After writing the map click ECU in the menu bar then click Clear DTCs. That will clear the code. The one time I forgot to do it the light went away after about 30 min of driving.
After writing the map click ECU in the menu bar then click Clear DTCs. That will clear the code. The one time I forgot to do it the light went away after about 30 min of driving.
No more check engine light...
Sep 4, 2010, 09:09 PM
#992
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I installed the 2010 USDM 93 octane + GST boost pill today. Just got back from a late night drive on the back roads. Wow! This is how the car should have come from the factory. It gets off the line quicker, pulls out of corners harder, and has a lot more top end. I finally got pushed back into my seat for the first time in this car. Even got some light tire spin from a dig with ASC off. That never happened stock.
It's not just WOT that feels better. Normal driving, part throttle acceleration, and throttle response are much improved as well. In 20 years of modifying cars I've never got this kind of increase for so little money and time. This is a must-do mod for every RA owner.
Much thanks to Bryan and GST for their generosity.
It's not just WOT that feels better. Normal driving, part throttle acceleration, and throttle response are much improved as well. In 20 years of modifying cars I've never got this kind of increase for so little money and time. This is a must-do mod for every RA owner.
Much thanks to Bryan and GST for their generosity.
Sep 5, 2010, 01:14 AM
#994
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I’m currently using the „2009 AUS - 93 oct - StockPill - V2”. I’ m not using the boost pill because I had some problem during last winter with the version 1 BoostPill. The version with the stock pill never had any issue even when outside was – 20 degree.
For the XML definition I would contact Bryan directly to double check first your rom Id.
Sep 5, 2010, 01:47 AM
#995
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hi
again here i am a newbie at this stuff. so your saying get a laptop and some special cable somewhere and download the free rom and just like reflash my cars chip? and i can get those big gains for free on my 2010 ralliart sportback? will this void warrenty or lessen gas mpg? i beleive you said theres a boostpill boost that you can use for other stuff like adding full exhaust and intake and some other smaller mods? I have heard good things about ultimate racing exhaust and I like the work you have put into all of this. Can i get a recommendation for my 2010 ralliart sportback. trying to keep it as cheap/quality as possible so maybe under $3,000 and I live in kalispell, Mt smaller town. can you think of a place to get this all done at 1 time by pros somewhat near by, say spokane wa. ? again thanks for all your hard work. i enjoy following your project 
Sep 5, 2010, 04:15 AM
#996
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I'm just modified 53600009.xml file with 53610009 ECU ID for 2009 EDM RA and it works. And 53600010.xml into 53610010 ECU ID for 2009 AUS RA.
I'm not sure that I'm 100% correct, but looks like it working.
Here is attached files:
Sep 5, 2010, 07:57 AM
#997
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again here i am a newbie at this stuff. so your saying get a laptop and some special cable somewhere and download the free rom and just like reflash my cars chip? and i can get those big gains for free on my 2010 ralliart sportback? will this void warrenty or lessen gas mpg? i beleive you said theres a boostpill boost that you can use for other stuff like adding full exhaust and intake and some other smaller mods? I have heard good things about ultimate racing exhaust and I like the work you have put into all of this. Can i get a recommendation for my 2010 ralliart sportback. trying to keep it as cheap/quality as possible so maybe under $3,000 and I live in kalispell, Mt smaller town. can you think of a place to get this all done at 1 time by pros somewhat near by, say spokane wa. ? again thanks for all your hard work. i enjoy following your project
The rest of you post is completely off topic. This thread is about update to GST Basemap and follow up on users' experience. You should search, the forums already offer enough information to help you spend your 3000$ wisely.
For your tuner, try to post in the regional section.
Sep 5, 2010, 09:58 AM
#998
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again here i am a newbie at this stuff. so your saying get a laptop and some special cable somewhere and download the free rom and just like reflash my cars chip? and i can get those big gains for free on my 2010 ralliart sportback? will this void warrenty or lessen gas mpg? i beleive you said theres a boostpill boost that you can use for other stuff like adding full exhaust and intake and some other smaller mods? I have heard good things about ultimate racing exhaust and I like the work you have put into all of this. Can i get a recommendation for my 2010 ralliart sportback. trying to keep it as cheap/quality as possible so maybe under $3,000 and I live in kalispell, Mt smaller town. can you think of a place to get this all done at 1 time by pros somewhat near by, say spokane wa. ? again thanks for all your hard work. i enjoy following your project
everything regarding what you need and what the typical gains with this flash are in the first post of this thread... read it.
Sep 5, 2010, 04:44 PM
#999
Got my car back and it was my transmission going bad. I put back on that new 2009 93oct w/ boost pill, evo x bov and changed my intercooler out today with the evo x intercooler with evo x uicp and ur licp. Ran it around town a bit and I like this tune alot. The first gear seems slow to me(any suggestions on how to have not a sluggish take off?). After 1st gear it's like a rocket. Seems like my mpg in town went up and are better.
Sep 5, 2010, 06:07 PM
#1000
sorry im a noob to tuning but is it ok to run the 93oct + boost pill map with a evo x intercooler and UR UICP and LICP? and the biggest noob question- where do i buy a gst pill, i went to gst's website and they dont have a RA section, do i buy the evo ix boost pill(thats the only 1 i could find)?
Sep 5, 2010, 06:16 PM
#1001
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Its the same as the IX pill
Sep 6, 2010, 05:50 AM
#1002
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Just curious guys,
that one 1/4 time there with the Tune, pill and HKS filter, is that with the basemap as well? I mean regarding the HKS filter? Or was there other tweaking involved with the map? I was just wondering cause reading around I saw that even an intake tremendously impacts the air charge, so I was just curious about a drop in filter. thanks
that one 1/4 time there with the Tune, pill and HKS filter, is that with the basemap as well? I mean regarding the HKS filter? Or was there other tweaking involved with the map? I was just wondering cause reading around I saw that even an intake tremendously impacts the air charge, so I was just curious about a drop in filter. thanks
Sep 6, 2010, 07:39 AM
#1004
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Just curious guys,
that one 1/4 time there with the Tune, pill and HKS filter, is that with the basemap as well? I mean regarding the HKS filter? Or was there other tweaking involved with the map? I was just wondering cause reading around I saw that even an intake tremendously impacts the air charge, so I was just curious about a drop in filter. thanks
that one 1/4 time there with the Tune, pill and HKS filter, is that with the basemap as well? I mean regarding the HKS filter? Or was there other tweaking involved with the map? I was just wondering cause reading around I saw that even an intake tremendously impacts the air charge, so I was just curious about a drop in filter. thanks
You will require a tune (minor adjustment) if you change the diameter of the pipe where the MAF sensor is located.
Simple explanation: The way it works, is the MAF sensor reads a sample of the air flow and from that measurement, and some coefficient to compute the actual air flow considering the diameter of the pipe. The problem is, if you change you piping diameter, the ECU is not aware of the new change and thus get a erronous reading.
The effect is that it interprets the flow as being a certain value when the actual flow is higher than that. The amount of fuel injected is adjusted for the smaller value, thus you car will run lean. When your engine runs lean, you cylinder temperature will rise to a certain level that may be unsafe and could, at a certain level, leads to knock or part overhating and may even lead to blow your engine.
Hope this helps.
Sep 6, 2010, 07:46 AM
#1005
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You should not need to modify the basemap if you have a drop-in filter or any filter that maintains the exact inside diameter where the MAF sensor is located.
You will require a tune (minor adjustment) if you change the diameter of the pipe where the MAF sensor is located.
Simple explanation: The way it works, is the MAF sensor reads a sample of the air flow and from that measurement, and some coefficient to compute the actual air flow considering the diameter of the pipe. The problem is, if you change you piping diameter, the ECU is not aware of the new change and thus get a erronous reading.
The effect is that it interprets the flow as being a certain value when the actual flow is higher than that. The amount of fuel injected is adjusted for the smaller value, thus you car will run lean. When your engine runs lean, you cylinder temperature will rise to a certain level that may be unsafe and could, at a certain level, leads to knock or part overhating and may even lead to blow your engine.
Hope this helps.
You will require a tune (minor adjustment) if you change the diameter of the pipe where the MAF sensor is located.
Simple explanation: The way it works, is the MAF sensor reads a sample of the air flow and from that measurement, and some coefficient to compute the actual air flow considering the diameter of the pipe. The problem is, if you change you piping diameter, the ECU is not aware of the new change and thus get a erronous reading.
The effect is that it interprets the flow as being a certain value when the actual flow is higher than that. The amount of fuel injected is adjusted for the smaller value, thus you car will run lean. When your engine runs lean, you cylinder temperature will rise to a certain level that may be unsafe and could, at a certain level, leads to knock or part overhating and may even lead to blow your engine.
Hope this helps.