My entire car shut itself off once when I tried to put the car from reverse into drive. The check engine light came on along with some weird protection mode message then... Nothing. The entire car shut itself off. I had to turn the key to the off position and try and restart a few times before the car would start back up again. It was very electronic like. It's as if someone disconnected the batteries. While I was trying to restart, it didn't have the usual engine struggling sound that you would expect to hear. There was no sound and no reaction and then it just catches again somehow and restart. The entire car was brand new and stock when this happened.

More details: I was backing out of my drive way onto the street. It is on a very slight incline, 5-10 degrees tops with the garage being higher than the street. It was a mild day. I didn't really let the car warm up. I just backed the car out of the garage and onto the street and was about to get on with my day when it happened. Travelled in reverse on a cold engine for around 15 feet. The car was slightly over 5k miles at this point. I also mostly drive my car as an automatic at this point as well.

It haven't done so recently but in the early days, every time I take it on a long trip, it would leak a fluid that my tuner would believe is my trans fluid. Also, this was when the car was stock as well.

I nearly traded my car in after the automatic shut off experience. It was scary. I was blocking off traffic going in both directions while I am trying to restart my car.

I am planning on flushing my trans earlier than the manual suggest in the next few weeks. I will post to describe what I observe after a flushing.

 

My 2010 RA had to get a whole new transmission. only 10k miles.

 

Just updating. I hit 56000 miles and transmission is still going strong.I did a transmission fluid change at just below 40000 miles almost a year ago. Right now I think I have a bad o2 sensor right before the cat.

 

Hi, guys!
I've purchased a 2011 Ralliart (16000 km) few weeks ago. This tranny is all new to me, in fact I've been driving mostly (perhaps 90% of the time) manual shifts before, so that's the reason I would like to ask you about few symptoms:

1. I've noticed the shocks when changing 1st and 2nd from stop, but it only happens when the gearbox is cold. I've read each and every of the 6 pages here but I still didn't understand if it is normal or not. So...how is it?
2. I've noticed the delay in manual shifting, but I had them only driving "normal" (changing around 3000 RPM) and I've seen that the topic about this issue is dead for years. IS that normal or not?
3. When downshifting, I'm not encountering the same deceleration as I would be driving a manual, it decelerates, but very slowly. When is down to 3000 RPM, there's a moment when the deceleration feels more pronounced. It's the same on your cars or...?
4. When decelerating (in manual mode), between 2800 and 2200 RPM a funny vibration kicks in. They all do the same or is my car special?

Thank you very much for your answers!

 

Replaced my front o2 sensor and added launch control and super sport mode. Man super sport mode has some kick and instant boosting power especially between 3rd and 4th gear.

 

An update to my Transmission flush:

I flushed the transmission about three weeks ago. It made my transmission smoother and quieter. I seriously recommend TC-SST guys to flush their transmission much much earlier than the maintenance manual suggests even if you follow the severe maintenance regimen. If you are buying the car new, see if you can get the dealership to flush the trans fluid even before it leaves the lot as a part of the purchase agreement.

My car used to groan like some ancient pick up truck when the gear shifts but because it behaved that way when I drove the car off the lot brand new I assumed it was normal. WRONG. Even getting my transmission flushed at 12,400 miles I felt as if I was doing the car a great disservice.

As for my transmission fluid leak problem, it's still around. When I get my wheel balanced just today, the tech found my undertray to be covered in trans fluid. Good times, the tech suggested that it might be a sign that I am in for a huge headache.

 

Update to the transfer case leak issue:

Turned out when the dealership swapped the fluid, they reinstalled the oil pan incorrectly. The replacement parts isn't getting in until the 11th. I am suppose to report to Toronto by the 8th. Good grief.

As usual, they are giving me the whole, "Your car is tuned and modded therefore it's all your fault speech." Gotta be kidding me.

 

The pan should have never come off for a fluid change. There IS, however, a known-issue with seeping/leaking pans and covers on the SST that is covered if you are still within warranty limitations

 

Update to my transmission issue:

I dropped my car off this past Monday at the dealership and got it back earlier this afternoon. Mitsu covered the issue under warranty despite my mods. They provided a rental for the four days. The whole thing would've cost me $1,350 to repair if I were to pay out of my own pocket plus the cost of a replacement car for myself in the meantime. Gotta hand it to Mitsu, they came through in a big way when I least expected it.

Giant tip from one car noob to another. A healthy TC-SST is suppose to be very quiet when it shifts. I don't care how low the mileage is on your Ralliart, my TC-SST was a rattlebox the moment I drove it off the lot brand new with only 24miles. It's why I thought the excessive shifting noise was a part of the quirky nature of the car. It is not. If you can distinctively hear your TC-SST change gears over all the other cabin noises, you most likely need to have it checked out.

A healthy TC-SST makes all the difference in the Ralliart. The weird lag I used to get when the gear shifts is completely gone. Normal mode, sport mode, it doesn't matter, it's like a brand new car. I had the biggest grin on my face driving my Ralliart all over the place this afternoon/evening. It's as if my car just got a new lease on life. Hopefully this is it to my transmission woes. A healthy Ralliart is seriously a fun car to drive.

Oops, forgot to add the notes from the service log.

Here is what was replaced:

Cover -M<T Case 2502A042
Case Assy -M<T Case 2513A040
Bracket -M<T Case 01 2513A041
Diaqueen SSTF .1-4L C0002610

 

i have a 08 mit ralliart i was driving to work in tiptronic mood when i see engine check light appear i then stop put the car back in drive but it would not change gear so i put it back into tiptronic and when i try change it skip gears 2 and 4 i did a research and it say the soleniod so i reset the check light and it is now changing out again. i want to know what would cause this to happen? i dont think this twin clutch works i hear a clucking sound in the engine is this normal? i plan to do a service on the transmission can anyone tell me how much oil it uses

 

I had the same issue last week. The car started bucking and wouldn't go into 1st,4th, or 6th. Cleared the codes and everything seemed ok. Took the car to the dealer and they said there was no issue. Got the car back and it happened again. Transmission service required, service engine soon light, towed it back to the dealer without clearing the codes and was told the next day that they called headquarters and my car had the "death code" whatever code that was and a new transmission was on order. Bought my car used, Had the transmission serviced at 45k(I assumed the first owner never changed it). I installed upper and lower intercooler pipes, evo intercooler, downpipe high-flow cat. 59,8** miles and it's COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. I got extremely lucky is still in warranty. They said the total cost is $15,000!!!