SST Tranny Fluid change
Oct 27, 2010, 09:42 AM
#31
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Part no. 2513A040
Oct 27, 2010, 01:25 PM
#32
I am seriously considering doing it "by the book" when I do it (I am just changing the filter now, not fluid... I only have 15,000 hard miles on the car) but if I DO go by the book I will save the fluid from the flushing step and run it through some cheese cloth back into the bottles to be used in future fluid changes as the flush fluid rather than wasting it.
Keith
Last edited by Fourdoor; Oct 27, 2010 at 01:31 PM.
Oct 27, 2010, 01:48 PM
#34
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Keith, I did not do it by the book.
I used this instruction guide.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...eTSB_page6.jpg
I want to get a HELMs or some kind of manual for this car badly.
Also, keep in mind that the container your draining into should be clean too. So you can re use it. Basically, I guess you need two containers and the cheese cloth 1. to hold the old stuff 2. for the new stuff. I wish I had some kind of lift access because 1 of the 3 drain bolts is literally right by the cross member front mount. The fluid comes out so fast that it can get messy.
I used this instruction guide.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...eTSB_page6.jpg
I want to get a HELMs or some kind of manual for this car badly.
Also, keep in mind that the container your draining into should be clean too. So you can re use it. Basically, I guess you need two containers and the cheese cloth 1. to hold the old stuff 2. for the new stuff. I wish I had some kind of lift access because 1 of the 3 drain bolts is literally right by the cross member front mount. The fluid comes out so fast that it can get messy.
Oct 27, 2010, 04:56 PM
#35
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I wonder why there is the difference between the instructions you used and the ones from the service manual. The one you used seems to be something official from Mitsubishi. Do you know where it came from? Looks like a TSB.
Oct 27, 2010, 05:16 PM
#36
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The best SST fluid change write-up I've seen so far is from here: http://www.***************/forums/sh...ad.php?t=35444 I can't link it since it blocks out evoxforums. I haven't found a better one so far and it's what I'm using for this weekend when I change my fluid and filter.
In addition. I'm planning on using two 1 gallon water jugs (empty of course) to measure the fluid that comes out. I plan on using a clean catch pan to capture the old fluid. I will mark the water line on one jug before I empty it so I know where 1 gallon is. I plan on pouring the old fluid into the first jug up to the gallon line and then pouring the rest into the second jug (marking how high it goes up on the jug).
Now I know how much of the 2nd gallon of SSTF fluid I need to use. Next, empty the old fluid and fill it up to the line with new fluid. Lastly, I can pour one gallon of SSTF straight into the engine and use the gallon jug filled with new fluid to finish it off. That's my plan anyway and if anyone has a better way then I'm all ears.
Thanks!
In addition. I'm planning on using two 1 gallon water jugs (empty of course) to measure the fluid that comes out. I plan on using a clean catch pan to capture the old fluid. I will mark the water line on one jug before I empty it so I know where 1 gallon is. I plan on pouring the old fluid into the first jug up to the gallon line and then pouring the rest into the second jug (marking how high it goes up on the jug).
Now I know how much of the 2nd gallon of SSTF fluid I need to use. Next, empty the old fluid and fill it up to the line with new fluid. Lastly, I can pour one gallon of SSTF straight into the engine and use the gallon jug filled with new fluid to finish it off. That's my plan anyway and if anyone has a better way then I'm all ears.
Thanks!
Last edited by Rough 01; Oct 27, 2010 at 05:35 PM.
Oct 28, 2010, 03:13 AM
#37
Keith, I did not do it by the book.
I used this instruction guide.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...eTSB_page6.jpg
I want to get a HELMs or some kind of manual for this car badly.
Also, keep in mind that the container your draining into should be clean too. So you can re use it. Basically, I guess you need two containers and the cheese cloth 1. to hold the old stuff 2. for the new stuff. I wish I had some kind of lift access because 1 of the 3 drain bolts is literally right by the cross member front mount. The fluid comes out so fast that it can get messy.
I used this instruction guide.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...eTSB_page6.jpg
I want to get a HELMs or some kind of manual for this car badly.
Also, keep in mind that the container your draining into should be clean too. So you can re use it. Basically, I guess you need two containers and the cheese cloth 1. to hold the old stuff 2. for the new stuff. I wish I had some kind of lift access because 1 of the 3 drain bolts is literally right by the cross member front mount. The fluid comes out so fast that it can get messy.
Now my questions are should we do the flush (why or why not other than cost considerations), and if yes should I wait to change the filter until after the flush, or swap out the filter before the flush? The instructions on the AMS page are for a fluid change only, not fluid and filter. I am leaning towards doing the filter after the flush.
Keith
Oct 28, 2010, 06:00 AM
#38
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I bit the bullet and ordered 4 gallons of SST-I... if I find out the "flush" portion of the fluid change isn't needed I will keep the extra 2 gallons for the next fluid change in 15K to 20K miles. If I do the flush, I will be draining the "new" fluid into a brand new drain pan and filtering it back into the original containers it came out of.
Now my questions are should we do the flush (why or why not other than cost considerations), and if yes should I wait to change the filter until after the flush, or swap out the filter before the flush? The instructions on the AMS page are for a fluid change only, not fluid and filter. I am leaning towards doing the filter after the flush.
Keith
Now my questions are should we do the flush (why or why not other than cost considerations), and if yes should I wait to change the filter until after the flush, or swap out the filter before the flush? The instructions on the AMS page are for a fluid change only, not fluid and filter. I am leaning towards doing the filter after the flush.
Keith
Why not? - I don't think that there is any other downside besides cost. As long as its not getting cross contaminated with other oil. You said your going to use a new drain pan so that eliminates that.
Also, I would suggest at least looking at the filter before filling it back up. Even though you really can't see the little particles they are there with the worn materials. At least than you can decide from some kind of input. When taking off the filter last there isn't a lot of fluid coming out either.
Oct 30, 2010, 12:35 PM
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I just finished my SST fluid and filter change. I am upset at what I found but I did want to pass along some advice that I did not know:
1.) The fill bolt is underneath the stock battery mount
2.) You have to remove the positive cable stay bracket below the battery to get at the fill bolt.
My car had 11,000 miles on it and I found it shifts and drives a lot better. I found bits of clutch material in the fluid so I'm glad I got those out of the system now and didn't wait until 30k miles.
1.) The fill bolt is underneath the stock battery mount
2.) You have to remove the positive cable stay bracket below the battery to get at the fill bolt.
My car had 11,000 miles on it and I found it shifts and drives a lot better. I found bits of clutch material in the fluid so I'm glad I got those out of the system now and didn't wait until 30k miles.
Last edited by Rough 01; Oct 31, 2010 at 02:26 PM.
Oct 31, 2010, 08:03 AM
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I just finished my SST fluid and filter change. I am upset at what I found but I did want to pass along some advice that I did not know:
1.) The fill bolt is underneath the stock batter mount
2.) You have to remove the positive cable stay bracket below the battery to get at the fill bolt.
My car had 11,000 miles on it and I found it shifts and drives a lot better. I found bits of clutch material in the fluid so I'm glad I got those out of the system now and didn't wait until 30k miles.
1.) The fill bolt is underneath the stock batter mount
2.) You have to remove the positive cable stay bracket below the battery to get at the fill bolt.
My car had 11,000 miles on it and I found it shifts and drives a lot better. I found bits of clutch material in the fluid so I'm glad I got those out of the system now and didn't wait until 30k miles.
Oct 31, 2010, 02:25 PM
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Dec 16, 2010, 01:13 PM
#42
Well, I did the fluid change yesterday, which is probably one of the easiest things I've done so far, and I'm not really sure if it helped me very much.
My shifts have been getting increasing harsh where it sometimes feels like someone came up and kicked me in the ***. I'm getting pretty frustrated and seriously thinking about selling the car now.
blargh.
My shifts have been getting increasing harsh where it sometimes feels like someone came up and kicked me in the ***. I'm getting pretty frustrated and seriously thinking about selling the car now.
blargh.
Dec 16, 2010, 07:25 PM
#44
Did you look at your 2009 Service manual? Under Regular maintenance (doing as I drive alot of highway), it says to inspect Tranny for leaks and change if required. Don't have to change trans fluid until 96K under regular maintenance.
I just had my 48K service done and they called me and told me the price for the filter and I checked the manual and it's not til 96K. However, 2011 indicates to change trans fluid at 56K in Canada. I'm buy my own trans filter when it comes time to change the fluid.
I just had my 48K service done and they called me and told me the price for the filter and I checked the manual and it's not til 96K. However, 2011 indicates to change trans fluid at 56K in Canada. I'm buy my own trans filter when it comes time to change the fluid.
Dec 17, 2010, 08:36 AM
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Mitsubishi Diaqueen SSTF-1 Transmission Fluid C0002610 2 $230.00
Mitsubishi Evo X MR & Ralliart Transmission Filter 2513A040 1 $120.00
$350 Total
I guess I was a little low on my estimation. $350 was the total at fred beans. Please Shop mitsubishiparts.net and fredbeanparts.com. They usually run deals with discounts or free shipping. Also, visit the evo x forums they have more specific site for evo x / RA generation. It's also very important that it was in stock too.
Also, I followed the printed out instructions for doing the change. I came home after work so the fluid was already warm. I still went through D, N, R, P gears 20 seconds each like the instructions say.
If you don't drive in nice weather/roads than you should not wait and change your transmission fluid. Also, changing them your fluid every 2 oil changes is too expensive for me. That's unless you change your oil every 10k miles which is too long for me. If you drive spirited then change your transmission fluid every 30k miles. If you race change it every 20k. The first change time you always remember.
Mitsubishi Evo X MR & Ralliart Transmission Filter 2513A040 1 $120.00
$350 Total
I guess I was a little low on my estimation. $350 was the total at fred beans. Please Shop mitsubishiparts.net and fredbeanparts.com. They usually run deals with discounts or free shipping. Also, visit the evo x forums they have more specific site for evo x / RA generation. It's also very important that it was in stock too.
Also, I followed the printed out instructions for doing the change. I came home after work so the fluid was already warm. I still went through D, N, R, P gears 20 seconds each like the instructions say.
If you don't drive in nice weather/roads than you should not wait and change your transmission fluid. Also, changing them your fluid every 2 oil changes is too expensive for me. That's unless you change your oil every 10k miles which is too long for me. If you drive spirited then change your transmission fluid every 30k miles. If you race change it every 20k. The first change time you always remember.