considering 12' ralliart
#1
considering 12' ralliart
hey guys im new here and have been reading around a bit and am now considering buying a 2012 ralliart. i got to test drive one last week and really enjoyed it but am also considering a 2013 frs (hvn't driven it yet) but was just wondering what u guys think would be better choice as a daily driver. the frs could save a lil money on gas but wouldnt have the practicality that the ralliart has with it being a coupe and i know they are completely different cars but i was thinking the ralliart might be more costly too maintain and repair due to it being awd and to be honest am a bit worried about the sst problems that some ppl have had. also how far can i go with mods until i would need a tune? would a catback exhaust and mayb evo x intercooler need a tune? would really appreciate your thoughts n opinions on this
#2
hey guys im new here and have been reading around a bit and am now considering buying a 2012 ralliart. i got to test drive one last week and really enjoyed it but am also considering a 2013 frs (hvn't driven it yet) but was just wondering what u guys think would be better choice as a daily driver. the frs could save a lil money on gas but wouldnt have the practicality that the ralliart has with it being a coupe and i know they are completely different cars but i was thinking the ralliart might be more costly too maintain and repair due to it being awd and to be honest am a bit worried about the sst problems that some ppl have had. also how far can i go with mods until i would need a tune? would a catback exhaust and mayb evo x intercooler need a tune? would really appreciate your thoughts n opinions on this
#3
thnks i appreciate what ur thoughts are on the car and congrats on the new ralliart..if u dnt mind me asking wat did u end up paying OTD with taxes and everything? the dealer i went to still had a couple 2011's and the internet price was about 23k(base model) and the 2012's were about a grand more with out taxes, & fees. and yea i was kinda hoping the SST problems were mostly on the first 2 years of the ralliart since haven't read about any problems with 11's or 12's yet. you also make a good point with it being fun and practical and still being a good DD which is also why i am leaning towards the ralliart right now since the frs is a much smaller car but with the ralliart being turbo'd and awd it will be my first experience with both(although i have read about thm) if i decide to go that route which could make it that much more fun. and in regards to modding and tuning im a newbie as well which is y i was asking since i dont think i would modd the car for a ton of power but would like it to have an exhaust mayb something like the ultimate racing muffler/or catcack. With awd turbo cars like this is there more need for maintenance because i read that u need to change things like the tranny, transfer case, differential fluids every so often esp with a tranny like this? just want to have an idea of what other things i would have to take care of with this type of car
#4
^ Consider this - the FR-S is very new/commands a premium price for now and the next year or so...
A slightly used RA will be siginificantly cheaper and you can deal on a new '11
If you will have a kid within the next four years - the 4dr is much more practical... If not... and $$ is not the issue (but it sounds like it is)- i would suggest the FR-S... At least drive both and decide.
The recommended scheduled preventative maint costs more for the RA. The unscheduled maint ('Honey I Blew Up the Tranny!') will be the ~same for either car.
Once the mods start - the warranty stops (another argument for just saving the initial cost and buying used - mo' muny for mods!! Woot!).
So. Think about both options - what are your requirements, what can you afford, what will be your plan for the car... And ultimately, which car do you have a passion for. That is the one you will keep for a 1/4 Million Miles with a smile... I know.
RASB FTW!
A slightly used RA will be siginificantly cheaper and you can deal on a new '11
If you will have a kid within the next four years - the 4dr is much more practical... If not... and $$ is not the issue (but it sounds like it is)- i would suggest the FR-S... At least drive both and decide.
The recommended scheduled preventative maint costs more for the RA. The unscheduled maint ('Honey I Blew Up the Tranny!') will be the ~same for either car.
Once the mods start - the warranty stops (another argument for just saving the initial cost and buying used - mo' muny for mods!! Woot!).
So. Think about both options - what are your requirements, what can you afford, what will be your plan for the car... And ultimately, which car do you have a passion for. That is the one you will keep for a 1/4 Million Miles with a smile... I know.
RASB FTW!
#5
hey guys im new here and have been reading around a bit and am now considering buying a 2012 ralliart. i got to test drive one last week and really enjoyed it but am also considering a 2013 frs (hvn't driven it yet) but was just wondering what u guys think would be better choice as a daily driver. the frs could save a lil money on gas but wouldnt have the practicality that the ralliart has with it being a coupe and i know they are completely different cars but i was thinking the ralliart might be more costly too maintain and repair due to it being awd and to be honest am a bit worried about the sst problems that some ppl have had. also how far can i go with mods until i would need a tune? would a catback exhaust and mayb evo x intercooler need a tune? would really appreciate your thoughts n opinions on this
It's better on gas, it has the potential to be 'more fun' as it's a very engaging, driver-focused vehicle, and while slower than the RA (in terms of bench racing, 0-60 and 1/4 mile), it depends on what you consider 'fun' (straightline speed or the 'I'm driving a go kart' feel). Does the FR-S have a flat spot in its powerband between 3000 and 4000rpm? Kinda. It's more that there's a big boost in low-end power (both the direct injection and port injectors are firing from idle to 3000rpm), then when it's just DI from 3000-4000rpm it assumes a more normal power curve, then from 4000+ both sets of injectors are firing again to give a bump to top end power. So, as a daily driver, the FR-S will feel torquey for a NA 2.0L, and if you're driving it like you stole it (above 4000rpm) it will feel like it has a great top end. In between....it's like a VTEC motor, with a flat spot in its torque curve.
Reliability...it's too soon to know with the FR-S. For the Ralliart, there's only been a few failures and the vast majority of users here have not reported problems. It's easy to focus on the negatives when you see them (go to ft86club and you can read all about phantom CEL's with the FR-S or BR-Z that the dealers have no idea what the cause is), because when things are fine with a car, no one will mention that!
You don't have to worry about winter in Orange County, so the main appeal of AWD is somewhat lost in your situation, as handling-wise, even on Prius tires, the FR-S > RA. If the FR-S is your first rwd vehicle, do be careful -- it is not designed with the same safe understeer as, say, a Mustang or Genesis Coupe, or stock BMWs.
I love my Ralliart but it's not a be-all and end-all vehicle. For what I need it for (straightline fun as I don't track it and awd for winter), it's the perfect vehicle, but your needs will be different, and if the FR-S fits what you need, it is a gorgeous looking and supremely fun car to drive.
#7
^ Consider this - the FR-S is very new/commands a premium price for now and the next year or so...
A slightly used RA will be siginificantly cheaper and you can deal on a new '11
If you will have a kid within the next four years - the 4dr is much more practical... If not... and $$ is not the issue (but it sounds like it is)- i would suggest the FR-S... At least drive both and decide.
The recommended scheduled preventative maint costs more for the RA. The unscheduled maint ('Honey I Blew Up the Tranny!') will be the ~same for either car.
Once the mods start - the warranty stops (another argument for just saving the initial cost and buying used - mo' muny for mods!! Woot!).
So. Think about both options - what are your requirements, what can you afford, what will be your plan for the car... And ultimately, which car do you have a passion for. That is the one you will keep for a 1/4 Million Miles with a smile... I know.
RASB FTW!
A slightly used RA will be siginificantly cheaper and you can deal on a new '11
If you will have a kid within the next four years - the 4dr is much more practical... If not... and $$ is not the issue (but it sounds like it is)- i would suggest the FR-S... At least drive both and decide.
The recommended scheduled preventative maint costs more for the RA. The unscheduled maint ('Honey I Blew Up the Tranny!') will be the ~same for either car.
Once the mods start - the warranty stops (another argument for just saving the initial cost and buying used - mo' muny for mods!! Woot!).
So. Think about both options - what are your requirements, what can you afford, what will be your plan for the car... And ultimately, which car do you have a passion for. That is the one you will keep for a 1/4 Million Miles with a smile... I know.
RASB FTW!
Last edited by 09rv52; Jul 19, 2012 at 08:44 PM.
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#8
I love the new FR-S/BRZ but in terms of practicality - what do you need? Do you have kids? If so, and this is your only vehicle, the FR-S/BRZ is wholly impractical. If you do not have kids, or have a second vehicle and this would be your fun one, the FR-S as a toy is perfectly fine.
It's better on gas, it has the potential to be 'more fun' as it's a very engaging, driver-focused vehicle, and while slower than the RA (in terms of bench racing, 0-60 and 1/4 mile), it depends on what you consider 'fun' (straightline speed or the 'I'm driving a go kart' feel). Does the FR-S have a flat spot in its powerband between 3000 and 4000rpm? Kinda. It's more that there's a big boost in low-end power (both the direct injection and port injectors are firing from idle to 3000rpm), then when it's just DI from 3000-4000rpm it assumes a more normal power curve, then from 4000+ both sets of injectors are firing again to give a bump to top end power. So, as a daily driver, the FR-S will feel torquey for a NA 2.0L, and if you're driving it like you stole it (above 4000rpm) it will feel like it has a great top end. In between....it's like a VTEC motor, with a flat spot in its torque curve.
Reliability...it's too soon to know with the FR-S. For the Ralliart, there's only been a few failures and the vast majority of users here have not reported problems. It's easy to focus on the negatives when you see them (go to ft86club and you can read all about phantom CEL's with the FR-S or BR-Z that the dealers have no idea what the cause is), because when things are fine with a car, no one will mention that!
You don't have to worry about winter in Orange County, so the main appeal of AWD is somewhat lost in your situation, as handling-wise, even on Prius tires, the FR-S > RA. If the FR-S is your first rwd vehicle, do be careful -- it is not designed with the same safe understeer as, say, a Mustang or Genesis Coupe, or stock BMWs.
I love my Ralliart but it's not a be-all and end-all vehicle. For what I need it for (straightline fun as I don't track it and awd for winter), it's the perfect vehicle, but your needs will be different, and if the FR-S fits what you need, it is a gorgeous looking and supremely fun car to drive.
It's better on gas, it has the potential to be 'more fun' as it's a very engaging, driver-focused vehicle, and while slower than the RA (in terms of bench racing, 0-60 and 1/4 mile), it depends on what you consider 'fun' (straightline speed or the 'I'm driving a go kart' feel). Does the FR-S have a flat spot in its powerband between 3000 and 4000rpm? Kinda. It's more that there's a big boost in low-end power (both the direct injection and port injectors are firing from idle to 3000rpm), then when it's just DI from 3000-4000rpm it assumes a more normal power curve, then from 4000+ both sets of injectors are firing again to give a bump to top end power. So, as a daily driver, the FR-S will feel torquey for a NA 2.0L, and if you're driving it like you stole it (above 4000rpm) it will feel like it has a great top end. In between....it's like a VTEC motor, with a flat spot in its torque curve.
Reliability...it's too soon to know with the FR-S. For the Ralliart, there's only been a few failures and the vast majority of users here have not reported problems. It's easy to focus on the negatives when you see them (go to ft86club and you can read all about phantom CEL's with the FR-S or BR-Z that the dealers have no idea what the cause is), because when things are fine with a car, no one will mention that!
You don't have to worry about winter in Orange County, so the main appeal of AWD is somewhat lost in your situation, as handling-wise, even on Prius tires, the FR-S > RA. If the FR-S is your first rwd vehicle, do be careful -- it is not designed with the same safe understeer as, say, a Mustang or Genesis Coupe, or stock BMWs.
I love my Ralliart but it's not a be-all and end-all vehicle. For what I need it for (straightline fun as I don't track it and awd for winter), it's the perfect vehicle, but your needs will be different, and if the FR-S fits what you need, it is a gorgeous looking and supremely fun car to drive.
#9
If you are thinking FRS, get the BRZ limited since you can get goodies like HID headlights because the FRS doesn't come with them. At least there's a TRD supercharger kit coming out in the future for the FRS but the Subaru guys will probably bolt it on their BRZ anyways.
#10
I was in this situation a few months ago..i was waiting for the brz since it was anounced but then when i finally drove it one it just wasnt what i needed..it handles and performs excellent but its small in person and the back seat is pretty much unusable unless youre shorter than 5'...i ended up getting my 12RA and I love it
#11
well, just going off of the title of this thread, I would recommend getting a 15' ralliart. Primarily because a Ralliart that's only 13' long has either been in an accident or been modified so much that it'd be a nightmare to care for.
Seriously though, drive both cars, and consider your requirements carefully before pulling the trigger on either of them. Each caters to different market segments. So, in theory, what you need from your car will more than likely determine which car you get. Both will be fun cars to drive, and both will be fun to mod. The FRS/BRZ may not be the most mod friendly of the 2 at the moment but given time that will change.
Seriously though, drive both cars, and consider your requirements carefully before pulling the trigger on either of them. Each caters to different market segments. So, in theory, what you need from your car will more than likely determine which car you get. Both will be fun cars to drive, and both will be fun to mod. The FRS/BRZ may not be the most mod friendly of the 2 at the moment but given time that will change.
#12
well, just going off of the title of this thread, I would recommend getting a 15' ralliart. Primarily because a Ralliart that's only 13' long has either been in an accident or been modified so much that it'd be a nightmare to care for.
Seriously though, drive both cars, and consider your requirements carefully before pulling the trigger on either of them. Each caters to different market segments. So, in theory, what you need from your car will more than likely determine which car you get. Both will be fun cars to drive, and both will be fun to mod. The FRS/BRZ may not be the most mod friendly of the 2 at the moment but given time that will change.
Seriously though, drive both cars, and consider your requirements carefully before pulling the trigger on either of them. Each caters to different market segments. So, in theory, what you need from your car will more than likely determine which car you get. Both will be fun cars to drive, and both will be fun to mod. The FRS/BRZ may not be the most mod friendly of the 2 at the moment but given time that will change.
#14
^^lol. The door panels on the 12's have improved dramatically with the pleather or leather wrap they use and no more DRL's! Buddy just picked up one....and yes, the new wheels are lacking desire...
#15
I enjoy the fact that for under $200 the ralliart can make an extra 40awhp =]. And to the OP mine was 28k with the popular equipment package and all my dmv fees, reg & new plates was included. Also.. as far as the transmission.. a flush is recommended every ~50k miles or so.. which if done on your own will run about $250 - $300 which is not too bad.