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How to build this engine. Just a few general questions.

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Old Jan 10, 2013, 09:26 PM
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How to build this engine. Just a few general questions.

So I do plan to eventually build a portion of the engine. Now my power goal is around 450-500 HP with possibly an FP Red or Green. What is necessary for the "building" of an engine. Now all possible mods aside, my main question the process of building the engine.

Is it only necessary for the short block to be upgraded? And what components are included in that? (Im assuming pistons, rods, crank)(cams?)) Or is there a certain power limit where a whole long block including heads needs to be upgraded as well? I was just never sure and decided to ask here. Is buying a stroker kit the same thing as buy a shortblock except that its already installed if u buy the block? Anyone who decided to sleeve it or not.

Just trying to learn guys so any input is appreciated.
Old Jan 10, 2013, 09:39 PM
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Your going to need to build the transmission to handle that power first.
Old Jan 11, 2013, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by robyn402
Your going to need to build the transmission to handle that power first.
No I agree with you but thats something I understand to do and seems straightforward to me. Clutch packs, DCT seals, cooler, fluid etc etc.
Old Jan 11, 2013, 06:30 AM
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For your goal upgrading the pistons and rods are a must. The crank will be fine but any turbo bigger then a stock x loves cams. The block itself should be fine but to sleeve it will just add that extra confidence in your build. The tune is the major factor in all of this. I see that the stock components don't like to be pushed passed 380 tq. If you want to go pass that i say upgrade everything and be on the safe side. Make it reliable so you don't have to build it twice. Since you have everything apart its cheaper to just get the head ported also
Old Jan 11, 2013, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by gaabbee
For your goal upgrading the pistons and rods are a must. The crank will be fine but any turbo bigger then a stock x loves cams. The block itself should be fine but to sleeve it will just add that extra confidence in your build. The tune is the major factor in all of this. I see that the stock components don't like to be pushed passed 380 tq. If you want to go pass that i say upgrade everything and be on the safe side. Make it reliable so you don't have to build it twice. Since you have everything apart its cheaper to just get the head ported also
Thank you for the input. I do appreciate it . So porting the head is beneficial but not necessary? So in essence its building up the components in the short block then i guess.
Old Jan 11, 2013, 09:57 PM
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Yep. Build the shortblock. Rest is just a nice to have. And headstuds if your going for high boost.

Also note the RA has no oil cooler, so get at least an X one, if not a aftermarket if your going for any kind of high power / racing.

Last edited by EyeDreamt; Jan 11, 2013 at 10:00 PM.
Old Jan 12, 2013, 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by EyeDreamt
Yep. Build the shortblock. Rest is just a nice to have. And headstuds if your going for high boost.

Also note the RA has no oil cooler, so get at least an X one, if not a aftermarket if your going for any kind of high power / racing.
Thanks man. I guess the RAD can only suffice for so long considering your new sig. haha
Old Jan 12, 2013, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Snipingdude
Thanks man. I guess the RAD can only suffice for so long considering your new sig. haha
The sig is wrong, I'm actually not sure yet, but thinking more towards a 6266
Old Jan 12, 2013, 06:15 PM
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I like the enthusiasm, but a 6266 on a SST is way out there.
Only (edit:3) SST's I know of pushing 35r sized turbos, and they have taken massive amounts of money ($20k+).

Last edited by sstevojr; Jan 12, 2013 at 08:19 PM.
Old Jan 12, 2013, 07:30 PM
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Contact me if you ever want to do a build. I've done many ranging from 350whp to 550whp+, SST and 5-spd.

Words of advice, precautionary steps to avoid blow-by and sleeve the block. You'll need to bore, sleeves, rods and head work to achieve a safe long term 500hp.

You also have to assess what your goal is. DD, drag car, track car, top end power or quick spool. Every application is different.

Also, being with SSP, I've seen the 11th hour "uh oh, my clutches are slipping and I didn't do my maintenance, need help" all too often. The SST is an important factor and make sure it's the highest priority in your build if you're aiming for that much power.
Old Jan 13, 2013, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by sstevojr
I like the enthusiasm, but a 6266 on a SST is way out there.
Only (edit:3) SST's I know of pushing 35r sized turbos, and they have taken massive amounts of money ($20k+).
I may go smaller on the turbo. But since I have the trans and motor out, I figure I should build it to the fullest.

The stock frame X "big" turbos are tq monsters, whereas the aftermarket turbos can put out more power keeping tq "low" (400ish).

I figure with dct seals, 600hp clutchpacks, and proper tuning to keep tq down I should be ok. I have s-sport mode as well.

Not to mention getting the AGP kit is the same price or cheaper than going to a ef4 or even ef3 when you think about coolant lines, oil lines, gaskets, etc.

Perhaps I'm completely off base here?
Old Jan 13, 2013, 09:27 AM
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No, stock frame set ups are cheaper. T3 setup is 4-5k or stock frame including lines $3300
Old Jan 13, 2013, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Jasoob
No, stock frame set ups are cheaper. T3 setup is 4-5k or stock frame including lines $3300
http://www.agpturbo.com/evolution-x-...o-upgrade-kit/
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