Tools for turbo removal
#1
Tools for turbo removal
Im going to be swapping over to my Rad Lite here in the near future. To get to the point, i want to know what tools are required to get the job done. I dont want to start the job to find out that i lack required tools. Could somebody please give a list of tools required and any tips to make the swap over? Im planning on soaking the turbo bolts with PB Blaster a day ahead of time and while i remove them. Anything else?
Edit: This may be the wrong section to ask this. If so will a mod please move to the correct section
Edit: This may be the wrong section to ask this. If so will a mod please move to the correct section
#2
#3
Other than a decent mechanics tool set. You will need a swivel joint 14mm socket, a good one; Not a pep boys/autozone crap. Normal height, not the extended one. You will also need (2) 6" extensions to get the downpipe spring bolts. I'm pretty beast and used 3/8 drive, only because it gave me more room. It's more about dexterity for the manifold to cylinder head bolts.
For the 4 holding the manifold to the turbo. I used 1/2 drive and and big breaker bar. Got a little tired...and theres a lot more room.
The hardest bolts: the nut for the manifold to the cylinder head on the bottom by the 3rd runner.
The top bolt on the t/c bracket. The nut on the o2 housing was tough to tighten.
For the 4 holding the manifold to the turbo. I used 1/2 drive and and big breaker bar. Got a little tired...and theres a lot more room.
The hardest bolts: the nut for the manifold to the cylinder head on the bottom by the 3rd runner.
The top bolt on the t/c bracket. The nut on the o2 housing was tough to tighten.
#4
Good information thrown at me by Bom and Chi. Thanks guys. I feel pretty confident that i will be able to pull this off. Im not really new to working on motors, but this will be my first time dealing with a turbo. If all else fails, i'll just put back what i have removed and drop the car off at Evolution Dynamics.
#5
I'd never done it before and I managed it. Best advice, PB blaster EVERYTHING the night or 2 nights before. The do it again the night before. The do it again the morning of. and right before you start.... and maybe half way through. get the point? lol
On the swivel, wrap it in electrical tape to get the turbo bracket "bolt from hell" off.
Also, you'll need some coolant, cause you WILL spill some.
and as for tools, yeah, good extensions and good swivels. I picked up a nice mechanics toolset from lowes, as well as a swivel set, reducer set, and extension set. (Kobalt tools are made where Craftsman used to be made before it became cheap junk. In the US in the same plant as snap-on, and come with a lifetime warranty).
Also, you will need a o2 socket. Harbor freight one worked well for me. Now is also a great time to install a wideband and downpipe if you dont already have them.
On the swivel, wrap it in electrical tape to get the turbo bracket "bolt from hell" off.
Also, you'll need some coolant, cause you WILL spill some.
and as for tools, yeah, good extensions and good swivels. I picked up a nice mechanics toolset from lowes, as well as a swivel set, reducer set, and extension set. (Kobalt tools are made where Craftsman used to be made before it became cheap junk. In the US in the same plant as snap-on, and come with a lifetime warranty).
Also, you will need a o2 socket. Harbor freight one worked well for me. Now is also a great time to install a wideband and downpipe if you dont already have them.
#6
Didnt think about electrical tape. Good tip! I knew i will be needing coolant and if i remeber reading a thread correctly, i need oil also. Unless i pinch off the lines? Sounds like i have all the tools to do the swap minus the o2 socket and swivels. I already have a wideband installed in my test pipe, and i almost thrashed my o2 sensor when i installed it because i didnt have the proper socket. managed to get it on without effing it up too bad. But im thinking about buying a new downpipe with a bung to move my wideband sensor to the downpipe. Also going to be buying new gaskets and bolts for the install because im a paranoid freak.
#7
A giant 22mm open/ended wrench for the o2 sensor.
Kind of funny, but I used one of those foam flooring mats so I can put on top of the engine. It let me kneel on top of the motor and reached bolts and get leverage. I'm not that tall....
Working under the car first removing the t/c bracket and downpipe. Then lowering the car to work above the engine. Also, after you take the Strut bar off, put back the nuts on the shock tower bolts. You don't want the shock to drop and have to put that back.
The only bolt that broke on me was the 10mm heatshield on on the o2 sensor. That was too rusted to save. I swapped to evo 10 gear and left that shield on the RA parts.
Make sure you transfer over all the rubber hoses over to the new turbo. It's easier to attached it to the motor than from the motor to the turbo. Or just drain the coolant and keep the work clean. I used a bolt to plug the hose and I clamped down the hose. However, when I tried putting it back to the turbo I spilled alot of coolant. I wasted time cause I had to clean up the motor. Got the water hose and sprayed it down...I should've just drained the coolant. It's not even a hard step...
It's one of those jobs that you learn a lot, remember everything and can complete it a lot faster the 2nd time. The first time is the hardest and most painful.
Kind of funny, but I used one of those foam flooring mats so I can put on top of the engine. It let me kneel on top of the motor and reached bolts and get leverage. I'm not that tall....
Working under the car first removing the t/c bracket and downpipe. Then lowering the car to work above the engine. Also, after you take the Strut bar off, put back the nuts on the shock tower bolts. You don't want the shock to drop and have to put that back.
The only bolt that broke on me was the 10mm heatshield on on the o2 sensor. That was too rusted to save. I swapped to evo 10 gear and left that shield on the RA parts.
Make sure you transfer over all the rubber hoses over to the new turbo. It's easier to attached it to the motor than from the motor to the turbo. Or just drain the coolant and keep the work clean. I used a bolt to plug the hose and I clamped down the hose. However, when I tried putting it back to the turbo I spilled alot of coolant. I wasted time cause I had to clean up the motor. Got the water hose and sprayed it down...I should've just drained the coolant. It's not even a hard step...
It's one of those jobs that you learn a lot, remember everything and can complete it a lot faster the 2nd time. The first time is the hardest and most painful.
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