Hey everyone,

It's been a long time since I updated anything on my build. It went through a catastrophe several times but everything pulled through and I'm breaking in the engine right now.

The biggest issue I have is oil pressure. I will have to run much, much thicker oil to keep the pressure up but it should do the trick.

Here are a couple videos from when I picked it up this week as well as the final parts list:

Startup when I picked it up (rev to about 2500rpm):
(Click on image for video)



Idle, low oil pressure here. Soon to (hopefully) rectified with thicker oil. Idle sounds awesome nonetheless:
(Click on image for video)



Installed Parts:
-MAP EF2.5 Fully Ported/Coated/3'' Non-Anti Surge Elbow (WGA spring 23psi)
-MAP Short Runner Tubular Exhaust Manifold
-MAP Eliminator Recirc Long Downpipe w/3D Contoured Flange
-BC Sportsman Rods w/ARP2000 Fasteners
-CP 86.5mm Pistons (custom over-bore)
-BC 35mm intake/29mm exhaust Valves
-BC Theta Valve Guides
-BC Single Springs
-BC Titanium Retainers
-BC 87mm Head Gasket
-BC Stage II 272 spec Cams
-ARP Head Studs
-ARP Main Studs
-ACL Race Series HX (+1mm) Bearings
-SSP Intake Manifold Teflon Plenum Gasket Kit
-SSP 500 clutch kit
-SSP DCT Seals
-SSP/Fidanza Lightweight SST Flywheel
-SSP Engine Oil Cooler
-8L SSP Gold
-SSP Lifetime Reusable Stainless Filter
-MAP Rev1 Intake 3.5''
-MAP Ralliart to X Turbo Swap Kit (includes all necessary lines/gaskets)
-Synapse Engineering DV
-Turcotte Racing Test Pipe
-DW 265lph Fuel Pump
-FIC 1100cc Injectors Plug and Play
-MAP Fuel Feed Line Kit
-Boomba Fuel Rail
-Speed Circuit FPR Kit
-AMS Front Motor Mount (race spec)
-Depo Racing 3.5'' FMIC
-Ultimate Racing UICP
-Ultimate Racing LICP
-Go Ape Race Battery (Deka)
-Go Ape BBK
-Magnaflow modified for fully 3''
-Grimmspeed 3-Port EBC
-Turcotte Racing MIVEC Exhaust Sprocket
-Depo Racing Boost/AFR/Oil Pressure Gauges
-Weight Reduction 250-300lbs
-Oil 20W50
-Tune by Kassander (EB Tuning) on 94 octane

A huge thanks to Brian Crower, SSP, MAP, Depo Racing, EB Tuning and Turcotte Racing!

http://www.briancrower.com/
http://www.sspperformance.com/
http://www.maperformance.com/
http://deporacing.us/
http://www.turcotteracing.com/
http://www.facebook.com/EbTuning

 

I can't wait to see what she can do!

 

Very nice!

 

uhm, low oil pressure after a build suggests a clearence problem. The tolerances are too loose and the pump can't build pressure (picture the garden hose and then garden hose with thumb over the end. Same volume - but the thumb produces more water pressure).

I hope i am wrong.

 

You're 110% right but it's how I wanted it It's race spec with high clearance and need to run a much thicker oil (only running 10w30 right now). Most bigger stroker builds are running 20w50. I have a thicker head gasket as well as the race series bearings which are +1mm. I'm planning on doing a few more things (catch can, water meth) then it's good for all-out beating. Sounds pretty cool at idle nonetheless!

 

Jason will tell you that I had the same reaction when he told me about the oil pressure.

 

I've had the MIVEC exhaust sprocket modified to not allow more than -15deg timing as a fail safe. The thicker oil should give me the pressure I need but I'll confirm tomorrow.

I'm have 2 more oil changes and 1000 miles to do before synthetic. Synthetic will make a big difference as well for the oil pressure. Currently non-synthetic break-in oil.

 

ah. ok.

 

20w50 regular oil still hasn't solved the oil pressure at idle. Cams still chattering around, sounds like a diesel!

I just ordered Brad Penn semi-synthetic 20w50 as a transition into full synthetic (will be Motul top grade synthetic but not there yet). Hopefully the BP can help keep the pressure up.

 

Telling ya, the oil pressure issues SUCK! Glad to see the car running though. I'm taking mine apart again to try'n solve my oil pressure issues in the head. Basically going to be doing an entire head rebuild... Ugh.

Just watch that pressure and the minute you start having dying issues at idle, get it apart and figure out the problem. Hopefully the modified cam gear will solve that for ya though. Where did you get it modified at?

 

Tell me about it! I got the MIVEC sprocket done locally.

Here's the solutions I've come up with in consequential order until one works (remember I have a fully built head as well):

1) I'm going to try Brad Penn 20W50 semi-synthetic (can't run full synthetic yet). Synthetic oil doesn't get as viscous so hopefully that will help. Once all is broken in, full synthetic 20W50 will go in hopefully solving my issue at idle

... if that doesn't work I'm going to;

2) My cam is stage 2 so I can theoretically run stock valve springs. OEM springs are 50lb/120lb versus 75lb/175lb (seat and open respectively). Hopefully the slightly softer OEM valve springs will allow the lower oil pressure to make the cams function properly and stay open longer with less resistance;

3) While I'm changing said valve springs to OEM, I will have a hole drilled into the head to run a feed line to dramatically increase pressure in the head. If 2 doesn't work, I'll have the prep done to so this feed line.

4) Final terrible last option, pull the whole damn thing out again and take the ACL HX race series bearings out (which are +0.01" over standard) to replace them with standard ACL H series bearings (OEM clearance) and that should reduce the clearance back to stock and keep pressure normal

Bonus 5) Drive my car into the river

 

Awesome to see how this is coming together. Hope you get you oil pressure issue fixed. If you choose option #5 I know a river close by me that you are more than welcome to run it into.

 

I gotta' say - from an engine durability stance - option 4 (admittedly painful) is the best option. The reduced friction and higher engine operating temperature from a more open clearance doesn't outweigh the permanent low oil pressure issue... IMHengineeringO.

 

Haha! I'll make sure you let you know

I think the synthetic will help enormously. I'm pretty sure the OEM valve springs will help everything run smoother as well.

 

Agreed. So I'm going to do my best to get the oil pressure up before I take my motor assembly apart for the 4th time in 10 months lol. I know it's the best option but ultimately I'd like to keep it with the current clearance, if possible. Hopefully I can get the idle pressure up.