richardjh

Did you see installation Point #65 in that doc?

"... Install Garrett stickers as necessary to increase horsepower output (2 bolts, 10mm socket, plastic clips, Garrett stickers)."



Rich

omegis

iTrader: (2)

Didn't catch that the first time I read the instructions.

Those stickers add at least +20whp.

ralli_kid

iTrader: (1)

I ended up doing the swap myself using the garret instructions. Everything is pretty much similar. Hardest part I think was getting the manifold bolts to break loose and to reach them. I used PB blaster to break the bolts loose as well which helped a lot. Also since I didnt want to deal with the pain of taking the stock O2 off the turbo I pulled the turbo out with it attached. Turbo is so small anyways. With the evo x turbo, well thats a different story I had to do that piece by piece.

Overall just me doing this myself working from 10pm until 3 am for 5 days straight got the job done. In the end I felt it was worth it since I saved myself 500 from RRE and 300 from another shop. With that extra money I ended up buying some more parts and getting tuned.

AWDralliart09

iTrader: (5)

Great information. Im doing my Swap this week and this thread is a GREAT help. Thanks everyone!!

sleeper1

very handy writeup, i`m doing the turbo swap myself in a couple of weeks so i`m busy taking down notes. have been for a month
good to know the little TD04 will come out with the stock 02 (dump pipe) attached ralli kid, and i`m already equipped with the garret PDF.

i have a list of the tools i will need, like a 2 foot extension and a knuckle socket joiner for the 02 bracket bolt, its been called "the bolt from hell"

i do have 1 question though for those that have done it, how much is needed to be done from under the car? it doesnt look like much at all except the downpipe below the 02 housing?
and the stone guard of course and the "bolt from hell".

also after the car is rendered immovable which side are u working underneath from?
i have limited space, looks like its the LHS? bearing in mind i have a right hand drive car if that makes any difference, probably not.

thanks
Steve.

any other handy tips from those that have done it?

JayK

iTrader: (1)

How long should it take me to replace just the manifold??

sleeper1

turbo swapped fellahs, thanks for all your input

virtual dyno gives me 217 wkw and 400nm



the rev hunt has settled down quite a lot too.

JayK

iTrader: (1)

Guys,

Need a bit of help. I was able to remove all nuts and bolts from the manifold. I am now attempting to get this sucker off. I have found one mounting bolt on the turbo from the underside of the car on the passenger side. Where are the other bolts that need to be removed for me to lower the turbo enough to get the studs out of the way of the manifold for me to replace it????. I am a bit stuck and can not seem to find these mystery mounting bolts. any help would be appreciated (with photos obviously the best).......

sleeper1

the best bet for u is to download the garret "how to" change an evo x turbo to a garret PDF, its very similar to swapping out the RA turbo

JayK

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply. Yes I did have that document in hand, I could not find that last turbo mounting bolt to the block. I finally found it after about 4 hours of removing heat shields, coolant hard line mounts, intake and down pipe (which I think was all unnecessary in the end).

I took off the passenger side wheel well plastic tray and was able to get my head in a position where I could see the bolt with a flashlight. I never ended up removing the second turbo mount that has 2 bolts to the block and 1 to the turbo because those bolts were just too hard to reach. I was able to swivel the turbo back on the one bolt as a pivot and it gave me just enough room to pop off the exhaust manifold to replace it.

The manifold was cracked for no reason at all. I baby that car and still it cracked. Mitsubishi said they would not cover it under warranty because the basic coverage warranty ended at 36k and I was at 43k. I disputed this because it is a common issue that people continually post about on these forums. I am an engineer and I can say for certain that this was a design defect. Either the casting process is faulty or the materials used is faulty. Either way Mitsubishi should have covered this ongoing issue with these cars by either doing a factory recall or an extended warranty. They ended up telling me that they would cover the new part but charge almost $1k for service. $1k - ($85 for slightly used perfect working manifold + slightly bloody knuckles and a day and a half getting to know my car better) = $915 savings + know-how......win

Car sounds and runs great now.

thanks everyone