bishiboy

iTrader: (10)

Heat is our enemy. I live in the AZ desert and getting max performance with 91 octane has become an obsession!
The 1st mod I did was a PWR radiator (with Samco hoses). I have since put on a Greddy 1.3KpA Rad cap and have a Ralliart thermostsat enroute.
I made a custom bar and plate intercooler with custom upper pipes.
Now I'm looking at a bigger oil cooler, better fans and a cold air intake set-up.
What are some other areas I could look at to help cool this baby off?
It hit 115F today! Power is way down, timing is being pulled, and I'm running rich as hell.
I'm working on an Auqamist 2D water injection set-up, just have to save up a little more.
I'm trying to think out of the box. Any ideas will be entertained.
Thanks

chuntington101

you have all the normal things covered mate. but there are still a few areas that you could look into. first is to reduce the hot stuff heating the already hot air. this means the exhaust manifold/turbo. there is a thread on here called "ceramic coating" or something about a guy who has coated his manifold and don other stuff to help with heat. this thread is realy good and well worth a look. the ideas used could realy help to. once this is done then thermal wrap the manifold as well to help keep in every last bit of the heat.

so with a coated manifold you will see reduced temps (as well as better spoolup). you could also look into wrapping the intercooler to manifold pipe in some sort of insolation. this will stop heat getting back into the inlet air once you have cooled it. also ceramic coating the inlet manifold would help for the same reason. you could also look at trying to get air out of the engine bay as this will let more air in! this can be very easy, just lift the rear of the bonnet by a couple on inch will help no end. also a aftermarket bonnet with additional venting will help! putting a bottle of "wetter water" (cant remember the company, i will look it up for you) is supposed to reduce water temps by upto 15 derggres. if you wanted to get really serious then you could look into an electirc water pump. these are more efficent than the normal ones and dont need a stat as they just tuen on and off when needed. this help incease the flow of water around the system and thus increase cooling capabilites.

this is all i can think of at the mo, will try and come up with some more ideas.

hope this helpsany any question just ask.

thanks Chris.

SSKILLA

wont a cooler thermostat cause rich conditions?

mitsuorder

iTrader: (106)

ask badazzcr about thermostats, he has done a bit of experimentation i believe

ColinL

is the PWR radiator setup still using the stock fan? if so I'd address that. I know it's due to space reasons, but the stock fan is in a shockingly poor location to efficiently draw air through the whole radiator.

I definitely agree with huntington that reducing underhood temp would be something that would help enormously, but I've never had great results with header wrap and things tend to rust. I'd just go for jet-hot.

SSKILLA

can anyone chime in on my question

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Only if it drops the coolant temp to below the "Enrichment point" where the ECU thinks its in a cold climate..

Its not about making the engine much cooler, its about being able to shed excess heat under load to maintain an optimal temp..

Finally, an on-topic thread for what we were discussing earlier.. Here's my plan..

- Ceramic Coating of the Header, Turbine hot housing, O2 housing
- Upgraded Aluminum Radiator
- Better coolant
- cooler thermostat, but not much cooler than stock, just one that can flow more
Upgraded water pump, one that can move more coolant volume, but not FASTER since you want to move alot of coolant through the engine, but leave it in there long enough to pick up a reasonable amount of heat.

Also, some ancillary things such as again reducing restrictions that can in themselves cause more heat in the intake charge..

Now there's a few things that can be a double edged sword.. I was pondering ceramic coating the outside of my intake manifold, and intercooler pipes to keep the under-hood heat from absorbing through the components.. HOWEVER It also will end up retaining the heat inside the pipes.. and there's no documented evidence at this point to say whether this will work or do harm.

Other things, a true fresh air source for intake air and somehow getting more airflow through the radiator (though your guess is as good as mine on what to do)

bishiboy

iTrader: (10)

Lots of good ideas here.
I will look into coating the exhaust manifold, and O2 housing.
I've seen thermal wrap for turbos in magazine ads, I think it's made by DEI?
I've been trying to figure ways to get more air also.
I'd like to move the water spray bottle and open up that hole for a cold air intake.
Some better fans are a deffinite. The front push fan doesn't have alot of flow thru capabilities and the pull fan is big, bulky (and sharp).
I also priced a complete Aquamist set-up with all required warning goodies for right around $1K.
I'd like to do something with the AC condensor, but I HAVE to have AC.

EVOeight

If you want to see the ceramic coating I did, go here: http://users2.ev1.net/~subaru/evo_web/evo_exhaust.htm

The header wrap is made by ThermoTec, although there are several generic versions of the same material...

Karash

iTrader: (6)

at this point I would advise against a "cold air" intake. The abs plastic OEM intake seems to do a very good job at keeping intake temps down. I have the Apexi filter with alum heatshield / box. When I didnt have the box on, my air intake temps were around 10 to (sometimes) 15 degrees C higher than normal. With the heatsheild, those temps have gone down a lot, but still not lower than when I had the OEM airbox on.

Food for thought I guess.

marksae

iTrader: (12)

Try using Honda coolant. I used that on my 2g GSX when I had overheating problems and it helped a little by reducing water temps by 1-2C. According to a Honda tech, it is supposedly less corrosive and should help your water pump last longer.

Another thing to try is header wrapping or ceramic coating the water pipe behind the turbo. All the heat generated from the turbo ends up heating up the coolant going from the water pump to the lower radiator hose.

Who makes a thermostat w/ a larger opening? Some people drill small holes in their thermostats to increase flow.

From my experience, the factory fans work the best. The idea that aftermarket is better than stock is a misconception a lot of people have. Do you really think those “slimline” fans flow more than stock? If you must use an aftermarket fan, try to make a shroud for it. Remember that having air hitting more surface area is a key to better cooling.

I would really like to see some water temperature figures to see if there really is a problem. The EVO has really good air flow paths through the front fascia and through the hood vent.

Buster42

iTrader: (2)

I'll restate this question here since this is where it belongs...

I read about the Evans Cooling system in Grassroots Motorsports a few months ago. Uses propylene glycol as a base instead of ethylene glycol. Higher boiling point and less probability to boil locally in areas around the cylinders--i.e-stays a liquid absorbing heat easier with less of a chance to create a local hot spot with an overlying rim of vapor; setting up an area to pre-ignite the intake charge--->detonation. Simplistic description but you get the point.

Note that this stuff is not drain and fill. They recommend an upgraded "water" pump and you have to remove ALL water from the system before filling with it.

I've never used it but am interested if anyone else has...sounds like it might be ideal for you Bishi...115F! Holy hell!

http://www.evanscooling.com/main20.htm

chronohunter

iTrader: (1)

Maybe you need to isolate the manifolds with some sort of ceramic gasket to stop the heat transfer into them? Then you could coat or cover them. Same idea is used to keep calipers and fluid cool in braking systems with some aftermarket pads.

justchil

iTrader: (44)

Very nice EVOeight!

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Interesting.. I actually made up my own airbox out of stainless.. I mocked it up with thin foamboard and am having it fabricated by a friend.. I have a unique situation where nothing I did would allow me to retain the stock airbox or I would have. so I made up a new base, top and snorkle that goes to the leading edge of the hood (like stock) I don't recommend this since it took quite a bit of effort, and of course, my design won't work with the stock MAF sensor since my car will have a different MAF in the upper pipe..

I've worked with Phenolic spacers / gaskets in the past.. I was giving that some thought since laser cutting or water jet cutting the material is fairly cheap.. of course that can introduce other problems, so I'm not really entertaining that seriously at the moment.

Also, Mark has a good point, the stock fans actually work pretty well considering the space they have and the confines.. and I've cut my hands numerous times on the sucker by the MAF pipe.. The Buschur intercooler lets me run the stock fan in front of the radiator, Don't know how well it works, but I definitely hear it cycling on and off and the coolant temp doesn't vary much on cold days, or obscenely hot days.. So I suspect at my current level of modification, it isn't overworked.. Of course, driving hard for a few laps, or driving hard 1/4mi at a time makes for two completely different solutions.. so I'm going to take the preventative measures to keep the temp stable, not necessarily make the car run cooler (though likely it would)

Also, thermostats are alot more interchangable than you'd think, so once you find a temp range you want to use, you can find something from a bigger engine that has the same outside diameter and height but has a larger opening.. Or you can do what was said earlier and drill a ring of holes through the perimeter, though that causes fluid turbulence which could actually hurt things a little. Plus you end up bypassing the thermostatic function slightly when the engine is cold, or cold enough to keep it closed.