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WORKS Flash P2 boost control

 
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Old Oct 17, 2006, 04:28 PM
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Thumbs up WORKS Flash P2 boost control

Some enthusiasts have been inquiring about the WORKS P2 flash and it's ability to control boost. We developed this technology in the latter half of 2003 and still remain the only tuner able to successfully hold boost through the OEM ECU without having to add additional hardware or various gizmos to trick or bypass the ECU. The P2 is completely stealth and retains all of the factory safety features designed from the factory. This is one of the reasons why Mitsubishi Motors employees and Mitsubishi Dealers around the country have chosen WORKS as their tuner of choice.
In addition, many nationally campaigned road racing, autocrossing, and rally cars rely on the rock solid boost of the P2 power to win.

Below are several boost graphs generated with the P2 at the track. (The blue horizontal lines are boost and the black lines are RPM.) These have not been modified with smoothing or altered in any way. Another item to note is that they all go to 7000+ RPM.
Attached Thumbnails WORKS Flash P2 boost control-p2boostgraph1.jpg   WORKS Flash P2 boost control-p2boostgraph2.jpg   WORKS Flash P2 boost control-p2boostgraph3.jpg  

Last edited by EM@WORKS; Oct 17, 2006 at 04:44 PM.
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Old Oct 18, 2006, 06:48 PM
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do you have any videos or and charts that say how much boost it is making and holding?
Thanks
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Old Oct 18, 2006, 07:17 PM
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20.5 psi. WORKS can hold boost steady at virtually any level (turbo and wastegate permitting) with our proprietary P2 software but each turbo has it's limit where it runs so far out of it's efficiency range that the extra heat being generated offsets the increase in cylinder pressure.
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Old Oct 18, 2006, 07:31 PM
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can you use a MBC with your P2 flash?
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Old Oct 19, 2006, 03:02 AM
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You don't need to, it would be defeating the object of having te P2 flash.

Mike
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Old Oct 19, 2006, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ApexVIII
do you have any videos or and charts that say how much boost it is making and holding?
Thanks
These are from a few 3rd and 4th gear pulls sweeping from 2K-7K RPMs. Again, blue is boost, black is RPM. Y-axis is boost in PSI. All graphs are unaltered with smoothing set to zero.

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Old Oct 19, 2006, 11:58 AM
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Why is there a step in the boost curve when its rising? the curve is consistant and it looks like its been programmed like that.

Mike
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Old Oct 19, 2006, 06:11 PM
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Looking at the positive side of the curve, it's almost parabolic until peak boost is attained. When you're in vacuum (negative boost), it takes very little to reach 0 PSI as it occurs in conjunction with the throttle plate opening up fully. Building boost is what takes time (especially when low in the RPMs). I think the transition from negative boost to zero to positive pressure is what you're seeing as a step.
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Old Oct 19, 2006, 08:06 PM
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Nice
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Old Oct 19, 2006, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Jamie@WORKS
Looking at the positive side of the curve, it's almost parabolic until peak boost is attained. When you're in vacuum (negative boost), it takes very little to reach 0 PSI as it occurs in conjunction with the throttle plate opening up fully. Building boost is what takes time (especially when low in the RPMs). I think the transition from negative boost to zero to positive pressure is what you're seeing as a step.

Yip, ddn't think of that, was in a hurry, didn't look at the scale. Thanks for the explanation.

Mike

Last edited by Boosted GP; Oct 19, 2006 at 11:12 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2006, 11:50 PM
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I have a question reference the boost control. I have a P2 flash that was updated for 93 octane now that I live in the great white north ( I miss the Bay Area )

Anyway, I ran my car at the track with and with out the cat. The first night I ran with the cat, I ran a 12.9 @ 105, with no problems. The next time I went I used the RTP. I ran a 12.7 @ 110. The problem was, I was overboosting and the car was backfiring like crazy. What can I do for this? I was thinking I could used a manual boost controller when I use the test pipe, just to limit the boost creep...But that is why I chose the P2, I don't want to use a boost controller. I am extremely happy with the tune of my car otherwise.

Now, another factor was the weather. It was 37 degrees when I ran. But, even when it "warmed" up to the 50's, the car was still overboosting and backfiring when I used the RTP....what can I do to fix this? With the cat on, the car runs perfect...no matter what the temperature.


Just for reference my mods are : Works P2, Works drop in filter, Ebay o2 housing, Works 70 mm down pipe, lower intercooler pipe and a 3" tanabe cat back.

Thanks,
Matt
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Old Oct 27, 2006, 10:58 AM
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There are changes to the boost maps between using a cat and a test pipe. Because things flow better with the straight pipe, the boost has a tendency to come on quicker/harder. This has a tendancy to increase the overall boost level (especially the initial spike). It is something we can easily change in the software to the appropriate settings. Feel free to give us a call if you'd like to make arrangements to do so or if you have any other questions.
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