WORKS Flash P2 boost control
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WORKS Flash P2 boost control
Some enthusiasts have been inquiring about the WORKS P2 flash and it's ability to control boost. We developed this technology in the latter half of 2003 and still remain the only tuner able to successfully hold boost through the OEM ECU without having to add additional hardware or various gizmos to trick or bypass the ECU. The P2 is completely stealth and retains all of the factory safety features designed from the factory. This is one of the reasons why Mitsubishi Motors employees and Mitsubishi Dealers around the country have chosen WORKS as their tuner of choice.
In addition, many nationally campaigned road racing, autocrossing, and rally cars rely on the rock solid boost of the P2 power to win.
Below are several boost graphs generated with the P2 at the track. (The blue horizontal lines are boost and the black lines are RPM.) These have not been modified with smoothing or altered in any way. Another item to note is that they all go to 7000+ RPM.
In addition, many nationally campaigned road racing, autocrossing, and rally cars rely on the rock solid boost of the P2 power to win.
Below are several boost graphs generated with the P2 at the track. (The blue horizontal lines are boost and the black lines are RPM.) These have not been modified with smoothing or altered in any way. Another item to note is that they all go to 7000+ RPM.
Last edited by EM@WORKS; Oct 17, 2006 at 04:44 PM.
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20.5 psi. WORKS can hold boost steady at virtually any level (turbo and wastegate permitting) with our proprietary P2 software but each turbo has it's limit where it runs so far out of it's efficiency range that the extra heat being generated offsets the increase in cylinder pressure.
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Originally Posted by ApexVIII
do you have any videos or and charts that say how much boost it is making and holding?
Thanks
Thanks
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Looking at the positive side of the curve, it's almost parabolic until peak boost is attained. When you're in vacuum (negative boost), it takes very little to reach 0 PSI as it occurs in conjunction with the throttle plate opening up fully. Building boost is what takes time (especially when low in the RPMs). I think the transition from negative boost to zero to positive pressure is what you're seeing as a step.
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Originally Posted by Jamie@WORKS
Looking at the positive side of the curve, it's almost parabolic until peak boost is attained. When you're in vacuum (negative boost), it takes very little to reach 0 PSI as it occurs in conjunction with the throttle plate opening up fully. Building boost is what takes time (especially when low in the RPMs). I think the transition from negative boost to zero to positive pressure is what you're seeing as a step.
Yip, ddn't think of that, was in a hurry, didn't look at the scale. Thanks for the explanation.
Mike
Last edited by Boosted GP; Oct 19, 2006 at 11:12 PM.
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I have a question reference the boost control. I have a P2 flash that was updated for 93 octane now that I live in the great white north ( I miss the Bay Area )
Anyway, I ran my car at the track with and with out the cat. The first night I ran with the cat, I ran a 12.9 @ 105, with no problems. The next time I went I used the RTP. I ran a 12.7 @ 110. The problem was, I was overboosting and the car was backfiring like crazy. What can I do for this? I was thinking I could used a manual boost controller when I use the test pipe, just to limit the boost creep...But that is why I chose the P2, I don't want to use a boost controller. I am extremely happy with the tune of my car otherwise.
Now, another factor was the weather. It was 37 degrees when I ran. But, even when it "warmed" up to the 50's, the car was still overboosting and backfiring when I used the RTP....what can I do to fix this? With the cat on, the car runs perfect...no matter what the temperature.
Just for reference my mods are : Works P2, Works drop in filter, Ebay o2 housing, Works 70 mm down pipe, lower intercooler pipe and a 3" tanabe cat back.
Thanks,
Matt
Anyway, I ran my car at the track with and with out the cat. The first night I ran with the cat, I ran a 12.9 @ 105, with no problems. The next time I went I used the RTP. I ran a 12.7 @ 110. The problem was, I was overboosting and the car was backfiring like crazy. What can I do for this? I was thinking I could used a manual boost controller when I use the test pipe, just to limit the boost creep...But that is why I chose the P2, I don't want to use a boost controller. I am extremely happy with the tune of my car otherwise.
Now, another factor was the weather. It was 37 degrees when I ran. But, even when it "warmed" up to the 50's, the car was still overboosting and backfiring when I used the RTP....what can I do to fix this? With the cat on, the car runs perfect...no matter what the temperature.
Just for reference my mods are : Works P2, Works drop in filter, Ebay o2 housing, Works 70 mm down pipe, lower intercooler pipe and a 3" tanabe cat back.
Thanks,
Matt
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There are changes to the boost maps between using a cat and a test pipe. Because things flow better with the straight pipe, the boost has a tendency to come on quicker/harder. This has a tendancy to increase the overall boost level (especially the initial spike). It is something we can easily change in the software to the appropriate settings. Feel free to give us a call if you'd like to make arrangements to do so or if you have any other questions.
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