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Car doesnt start for crap, need help

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Old Dec 19, 2005, 09:21 PM
  #31  
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Alrighty... I finally got it working :P

Lowered the fuel pressure down to where it should be, changed the plugs, made a brand new map and jumped the car. Now it runs great. I also have started to figure out my problem with the idle. To make the car idle with the stock ECU I had to move the BISS screw all over hell. When looking at the EMS it is trying to take whatever the max I set out of the idle so when my new laptop arrives I will just play with the BISS screw until the idle trim gets closer.

Anyways, Im a happy person now.

One other quick question though... I seem to be getting everything sorted out now so I am just wondering one thing about the EMS. When the car is running, when I try to connect to the ECU with the laptop it says, unable to connect unknown version. When I turn the car off it will connect fine and I can turn the car on and it stays connected. Anyone got any ideas why?
Old Dec 19, 2005, 09:25 PM
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It happens sometimes when the car dies and you try to restart over and over. Basically it's probably a fluke of the EMS not having enough time to reset the port and/or it's self.

bryan
Old Dec 20, 2005, 08:02 AM
  #33  
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Cool thanks. Im just very glad I finally worked through my issues with it Thanks again for the help everyone.
Old Dec 20, 2005, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by TrinaBabe
Well the biggest problem is I have never used an EMS. The other problem is I had no where to start... the only thing I used any other map for was the idle motor stuff

I understand exactly what the battery offset does in theory but I dont see why it would matter that much as for as the EMS is concerned... if you set it slower than it truly could react wouldnt that ensure the vehicle would run well?

I also understand about the fouling of the plugs but it is very hard for me to figure out which it is.... What should the AFRs look like at startup and shortly thereafter. In the 14:1 range or more like 10:1 or what? When it gets warm I know the 14.7:1 is nice but before that I dont know how much is too much fuel.

The other problem is the whole 57psi ish base fuel pressure. I am thinking that by me looking at most other peoples maps where they add 50% at startup when cold is because they are using a normalish fuel pressure. Since mine is 15psi higher on larger injectors I think that adding 50% fuel is probably flooding it.

And as far as catching the idle.... I think I MIGHT know why it cant catch it... on the fuel map I made I have 0.00 fuel for the -14.69psi row. The reason I figured to do this is to make it under hard decel it would not keep spraying gas but I know figured out i think there is a different option for that (Which cuts fuel based on the decel). SO..... I think I should put some fuel in that region correct?

Sorry for all the qeustions, I truly appreciate it all!

Lastly, any suggestions to try to figure out if I am way to lean or way to rich at cold start? I dont know... maybe i should try someone elses map and just compensate the fuel table for my injectors...
Sorry to post and run. We got real busy here.
You might see 13.0 or maybe in the 12's on a cold start until it warms up and leans out.
Turn down your fuel pressure and get bigger injectors if necessary. You're asking a lot from your fuel pump and heating the fuel too much.
You need fuel in that column although you may never hit it depending on where your break points are. It's good to have there for interpolation though. Yes the decel fuel feature takes care of that.

Originally Posted by TrinaBabe
One last question... since I already 'tuned' (LOL) the car to run on the Denso 720cc injectors battery offset... if I change it to the PTE 660s will i need to 'retune' anything... at least to make the car run
Again, changing the battery offset does not scale injector size. The difference from the offset table alone won't be drastic.

Originally Posted by TrinaBabe
Oh and yet another wonderful question from the retard...

Should I be attemping to get the car to run very well AFR wise without using the 02 feedback and then once I get it dialed in pretty well than turn on the feedback just to make it consistant? Thats what I figured to do but I was also thinking to let the 02 feedback do its job and then tune based on how much it needs to correct until I get a base map to be pretty close. Otherwise, how well does the Auto AFR log work... should I try using that instead and if so, what would be good values to let it start with? Again, sorry for all the questions but I really thank you a ton!
Basically yes. I tune cars so they're a touch rich without feedback so their failsafe is. well...safe.

I wouldn't recommend using the autotune feature at all. On the other hand o2 feedback works great for idle and part throttle once the car is tuned without it.

-Mike
Old Dec 21, 2005, 07:26 PM
  #35  
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Problem has been almost completely solved in a matter of minutes. Ill make a new thread.
Old Dec 27, 2005, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by TrinaBabe
Problem has been almost completely solved in a matter of minutes. Ill make a new thread.
Thanks to Sean I no doubt
I was talking to him the other day and he metioned how pleased you were!
Old Dec 28, 2005, 12:37 PM
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good job, i know those cold-starts are always tough to get tuned with new injectors! so sensitive.
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