4.0-4.2 volts of knock n hiccup
#18
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 2,064
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here are 3 ways that I would do in order to figure this out.
1. Go buy some race gas (6 gallons at least) and lower your boost down to spring pressure (11-13psi). Then go log some 3rd gear pulls. If the noise is still there then its just noise or you have a knock sensor issue. This method will help you establish a noise floor.
2. Borrow/buy some det cans and listen to the motor. Knock will easily be heard.
3. Borrow/buy another knock listen device (i.e. knock link, tuner pro, etc) and hook it up. Verify the results.
1. Go buy some race gas (6 gallons at least) and lower your boost down to spring pressure (11-13psi). Then go log some 3rd gear pulls. If the noise is still there then its just noise or you have a knock sensor issue. This method will help you establish a noise floor.
2. Borrow/buy some det cans and listen to the motor. Knock will easily be heard.
3. Borrow/buy another knock listen device (i.e. knock link, tuner pro, etc) and hook it up. Verify the results.
#19
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: char, NC
Posts: 1,387
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
jj, I have put C16 in the tank and it still knocks without changing the tune and without adding any timing.
Smoggy, I ordered a Buschur ported/coated mani, but they are on back order for a couple more weeks I think.
With 4-4.2 volts of knock I was told you should hear it, but I don't.
I don't know how to post a log on here, how do I do that or could I send it to somebody and they post it?
I don't know enough about the AEM to know if I doing the right thing, but tonight I put straight 100 octane in the tank and worked off my base map making adjustments.
The knock seems to jump around when I'm tuning. I will add fuel where I see the knock and it lowers it in that rpm area, but it shows knock 2000 rpms later in another area where it wasn't before. WTF???
Immediately after putting in straight 100 unleaded octane, the car was running much richer. A/F's dropped from 11-11.5 down to 10-10.4 across the whole board. The knock dropped down substantially also. I don't think there was any knock above 2.7 volts throughout the entire 3rd gear log.
I then began removing fuel where it was running the richest and slowly but surely the knock count started getting higher and higher. I was shooting for 11-11.2 A/F's Eventually it got up to 3.5 volts in a few areas.
I didn't even touch the timing. It starts around 2 degs and ends up about 8 or 9 degs by 7300 rpms.
I changed the plugs AGAIN(BR7ES), gapped to .024 and every once in a while it feels like it is still blowing out the spark. It did it on a couple of the pulls the other night and also tonight. Not all the time, but it happens. The car feels like it misses. The plugs continue to look good when I inspect them. No detonation.
I read somewhere that the HKS DLI 2 has two different settings for spark? Is this true?
If it is how do I tell how mine is set and how do I change it?
Smoggy, I ordered a Buschur ported/coated mani, but they are on back order for a couple more weeks I think.
With 4-4.2 volts of knock I was told you should hear it, but I don't.
I don't know how to post a log on here, how do I do that or could I send it to somebody and they post it?
I don't know enough about the AEM to know if I doing the right thing, but tonight I put straight 100 octane in the tank and worked off my base map making adjustments.
The knock seems to jump around when I'm tuning. I will add fuel where I see the knock and it lowers it in that rpm area, but it shows knock 2000 rpms later in another area where it wasn't before. WTF???
Immediately after putting in straight 100 unleaded octane, the car was running much richer. A/F's dropped from 11-11.5 down to 10-10.4 across the whole board. The knock dropped down substantially also. I don't think there was any knock above 2.7 volts throughout the entire 3rd gear log.
I then began removing fuel where it was running the richest and slowly but surely the knock count started getting higher and higher. I was shooting for 11-11.2 A/F's Eventually it got up to 3.5 volts in a few areas.
I didn't even touch the timing. It starts around 2 degs and ends up about 8 or 9 degs by 7300 rpms.
I changed the plugs AGAIN(BR7ES), gapped to .024 and every once in a while it feels like it is still blowing out the spark. It did it on a couple of the pulls the other night and also tonight. Not all the time, but it happens. The car feels like it misses. The plugs continue to look good when I inspect them. No detonation.
I read somewhere that the HKS DLI 2 has two different settings for spark? Is this true?
If it is how do I tell how mine is set and how do I change it?
#20
Evolved Member
iTrader: (41)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Toms River, NJ
Posts: 4,653
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You try swapping in a new knock sensor? I remember last year my brother's GSX was knocking like hell in the 5500rpm range with a relativelt new knock sensor. We happened t have an extra from my old car and swapped it in, and it was gone. Just a thought. Im really curious as to why youre getting this knock, its intriguing.
#21
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: char, NC
Posts: 1,387
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Soon2BEVO
You try swapping in a new knock sensor? I remember last year my brother's GSX was knocking like hell in the 5500rpm range with a relativelt new knock sensor. We happened t have an extra from my old car and swapped it in, and it was gone. Just a thought. Im really curious as to why youre getting this knock, its intriguing.
#22
Evolved Member
iTrader: (41)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Toms River, NJ
Posts: 4,653
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by EVOONYOASS
Actually we just switched out the knock sensor recently. The wire on the old sensor was cut and exposed so we installed a new sensor.
#23
What knock paramenter are you looking at exactly on the AEM (knock raw? knock volts? ETC)
Are you trying to log via a PC or the internal logger? This is very important in terms of what you are really seeing knock wise.
Are you trying to log via a PC or the internal logger? This is very important in terms of what you are really seeing knock wise.
#26
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: char, NC
Posts: 1,387
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am reading the knock "volts". I was logging internally with 255 samples per, but I switched it back to logging when I want by justing hitting F6. It seems to show the same thing so I just keep it this way. I hate waiting for it to download an internal log. Its much easier to just hit F6, name the file and be done.
#28
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
It almost sounds like its the Wideband not reading correctly. If it the knock went away with higher octane fuel and it ran richer... then you leaned it back out and it started knocking. It sounds like maybe the 02 sensor is reading way to rich.... perhaps the 11.5:1 is truly in the 13:1 range? Id try swapping sensors... I ate a sensor and it was stuck at 12:1 at WOT... not any amount of fuel could make it any richer or leaner. I was boggled so I finally swapped out the sensor (Mainly because I thought it was a tuning error I made) and the problem was fixed. Turns out I was running 10:1.
I dont think its the knock sensor if by adding racegas and running it at 10.5 to 1 made the knock go away. You should post some logs though so people can dig through em.
I dont think its the knock sensor if by adding racegas and running it at 10.5 to 1 made the knock go away. You should post some logs though so people can dig through em.
#30
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: char, NC
Posts: 1,387
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry I have been out of town working and haven't had time to address the cars issues. I did find one boost leak on the upper pipe where the air temp sensor is placed. I J/B welded around it to plug the leak.
I am getting a set of Magnacore 8.5 wires to replace the factory wires which have never been changed. The car has 68,000 miles on it and I am trying this as a last ditch effort. Maybe one of the wires is bad or acting up. I shouldn't be having ignition issues while using the HKS DLI 2 and constantly changing out the plugs.
Trina, as far as the wideband goes, it is brand spankin new and it was reading exactly the same as the dyno wideband so I am positive it was not that.
When I get back in town next weekend I am going to try and swap out manifolds finally. I keep getting side tracked and putting it off.
I am getting a set of Magnacore 8.5 wires to replace the factory wires which have never been changed. The car has 68,000 miles on it and I am trying this as a last ditch effort. Maybe one of the wires is bad or acting up. I shouldn't be having ignition issues while using the HKS DLI 2 and constantly changing out the plugs.
Trina, as far as the wideband goes, it is brand spankin new and it was reading exactly the same as the dyno wideband so I am positive it was not that.
When I get back in town next weekend I am going to try and swap out manifolds finally. I keep getting side tracked and putting it off.