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Old Jan 12, 2010, 07:17 AM
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Need some help, starting issue (pics)

Alright here's the deal. When i start my car in the cold (sub 30* temps) it has a really hard time starting. It cranks and fires when Crank Sync is ON, but it just can't keep running. I have to ease the gas for 10-15seconds untill it can finally catch it's own idle. Once it is warmed up above ~60 or so degrees it starts perfectly fine all the time.

I have adjusted, re-adjusted, and re-adjusted the proper fuel/ignition/etc. tables to try and remedy this but I just can't nail it. Need some extra help or advice.

Relevant mods are:
93 Octane pump-gas
FIC 950's
stock motor/head
272 hks cams
255 pump
stock lines/rail/regulator
35r and associated bolt-ons

Pics are of regular start tables, and advanced start tables. Car idles perfect ones it can catch itself after start-up, and idles perfect untill warmed up. No issues there. ONLY issue is starting it in very cold temps and it catching on it's own.
Attached Thumbnails Need some help, starting issue (pics)-start1.jpg   Need some help, starting issue (pics)-start2.jpg  

Last edited by Tbtalon94; Jan 12, 2010 at 07:22 AM.
Old Jan 12, 2010, 07:19 AM
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Did you do any of the fuel pressure solenoid removal stuff? Have you removed EGR, EVAP, any of that other stuff?
Old Jan 12, 2010, 07:20 AM
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Yes all of that is removed because I have the AMS VSR. Evap i believe is still there. I removed the emissions in the engine bay.
Old Jan 12, 2010, 07:38 AM
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Is this a new issue or is the VSR/removal of emissions stuff new to this cold season? Did you look into the cold start issues when removing the fuel pressure solenoid in extreme climates?
Old Jan 12, 2010, 07:52 AM
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I drove the car previously in the winter with the VSR and removed emissions. The only changes this winter is the 35r and 950's. It just seams like a fuel issue with me but I can add/subtract fuel and it just doesn't help.
Old Jan 13, 2010, 05:31 AM
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Bump,

Well tried to add a bit a fuel in the warm-up areas and it did the exact same thing. Fires perfectly then I have to sit there and baby-sit the throttle for ~10seconds before it will idle on it's own. Funny thing is the coolant temp is only around 35-40* (when it starts at 32), and it runs absolutly perfect after it catches it.

I took a TON of fuel out from the warm-up enrichment map, so in a few hours when I go to lunch I will see if it changes. I'm starting to think it's a mechanical problem. Maybe a leaking injector?
Old Jan 13, 2010, 10:50 AM
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Try retuning your Idle air control motor and Have you car set to idle higher for colder temps.
Old Jan 13, 2010, 11:00 AM
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try this

I also have the same problem! or had! another member referred me to a screw on the throttle bottle on top...warm the car up and when it idles fine take a screw driver (phillips) and turn the screw out 3-4 turns. it worked for me. now the catch.... another member on the same thread said u must have a tactrix cable and reset the SAS on the computer ( i dont have the cable or the computer to do so) but just turning the screw worked.
Old Jan 13, 2010, 12:15 PM
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The BISS screw is adjusted properly. My idle is absolutly perfect outside of that 10-15second start time.

Even if I add like 1,200rpms to the RPMvs.Start table it still doesn't help.
Old Jan 13, 2010, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Tbtalon94

Even if I add like 1,200rpms to the RPMvs.Start table it still doesn't help.
You may have the "Idle FB Below RPM" too low.
IE, if it's set to kick the idle circuit on at 1300, you can add all that you want to to it, but it will not start actuating the servo before 1300.

I have mine set to 1900.


edit: It may also help to stretch out the time after start a little bit

Last edited by whoflungpoo; Jan 13, 2010 at 12:39 PM.
Old Jan 13, 2010, 12:33 PM
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That could possibly help the situation. That is set at 1600, but my start-up target idle is 1,400..so it still should jump up there.

Instead what happens is it fires off, and the rpms just barely raise and then fall. Don't even get to 1,500 rpms. If i blip the throttle they just fall right down and it will die if I don't catch it.

I started having a problem in the warmer weather, which i posted about a few threads down, that when the car started it stumbled up to idle rpm. It was just annoying and didn't really affect anything but I never figured it out. I still credit that to an injector leaking, which I still believe is my problem here. These injectors however are practically new and have no problems otherwise.
Old Jan 13, 2010, 12:54 PM
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let me ask you this: while it's trying to catch, if you watch the advanced idle setup, look at the ign vs idle trim (you may have to add it in parameters), and see if it's compensating. if not, and I now this sounds wierd, but you might have a TPS voltage issue. I've had it happen on mine where when the engine is cold, the TPS min voltage is actually set higher than the actual voltage. For some reason, if the voltage goes too far below the TPS min, the idle FB ciruitry will act funny.

Once it warms up, the voltage rises back up and it acts right.
Old Jan 13, 2010, 01:04 PM
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Hmm interesting, That sounds reasonable that could work. I've done a few idle adjustments and other small things, i wil be sure to watch the IgnvsIdle and see if it moves.

Before I start though, shouldn't the voltage read properly as I minipulate the throttle? Should I lower the min voltage for the TPS?
Old Jan 13, 2010, 01:07 PM
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It will read properly when you manipulate the throttle, it's just a very very small difference when it's fully closed, but enough to ruin a weeks worth of troubleshooting. (like it did with me)

Just take a look at what the min is with the TP closed, and what it is set for. IIRC I just set my minimum to the voltage when it was cold, and just set my idle to turn on at < 3%. that way when it warmed up and the voltage raised, it would possibly show ~ 1% TP but it wouldn't screw with my idle.
Old Jan 13, 2010, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Tbtalon94
The BISS screw is adjusted properly. My idle is absolutly perfect outside of that 10-15second start time.

Even if I add like 1,200rpms to the RPMvs.Start table it still doesn't help.
Not the start table..

I was talking about the Idle control properties. I believe it's coolant vs RPM... change anything under 40 degrees to idle at 1600. but your Feed back and decl need to be higher.

Last edited by awdboosted; Jan 13, 2010 at 01:16 PM.


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