Death-Row

i know evom has a few older evo owners on here, lemme get your info please...

ok, so i got my hands on a gsr, cd5a model. we got laws in my country, trinidad, that wont allow me to import a car older than 4 years old so i gotta make do with whats already here. i would like to convert my gsr to a full blown evo3.


i can get all the parts for the evo3 since my friend goes japan regularly, so he can just scrap one over there and ship everything back to me, what i would like to know is, the differences.


can i just take everything off the evo3 and bolt it onto my gsr? are the chassis the identical same?


plus, i know evos suffer from low top end speeds, if i use the GSR box due to ratios, will that be much of a help in top end? will i have to sacrifice that much acceleration power if it does?


all the info would be appreciated guys, thanks alot in advance.

Smike

iTrader: (8)

Moved here. Aussies might be able to help you out. We don't have these models in the States.

Death-Row

aight man, thanks

meek automotive

Theres a pretty strong feeling here in australia we received over 600 CD5A GSR 1.8 T's.
And the car we got is slightly different to a jap spec.Mostly cosmetic.Trim & colours ETC.
Jspec had nicer seats and thats were it ends.No eprom ecu.
Most aussie evo mechanics and enthusiasts have usually done a few conversions
even when they dont know what there doing and destroy drivshafts for years to come and some have disastrous wiring issues.
You can see hordes of them on Catsales.com.au.
Seemed like a breeding ground for them before we got CT and cp9a.

The major hurdles are easily avoided.
Dont touch the wiring loom or the climate control.
It all plugs straight into a 2 litre.
Charge and starter motor loom is the only wring mods required and is very simple.
The overheat fan plug seems only to be on the aus delivered but if you have it loop it.
And the air con PWR should just plug swap.
Re rap the loom holder from the 2 litre engine loom onto the 1.8 loom.
You would be very lucky to get a jspec if it was Australian it would most likely have a destroyed wiring looms from local manadgers and car sterio fitting loom vandalisers and door trim hackers.

Revise the tailshaft yoke or make sure you use a welsh pluged 1.
Buy new heater hoses and radiator hoses.
Replace the full timming belt kit and balencer.
Use the front crossmemeber arms of 2-3.
definantly use gearbox and diff.
Make sure you get the front pipe.
Rear sway.
And keep front and rear body gussets if you want to complete the conversion.

Try and get a 2 or 3 the only difference is pretty much dump pipe and there all in need the 3 dump if your tuning to 200AWK.Which is in stock form a briliant reliable and affordable pack age.

Most of the ralliart parts list to is still available
Especially in the bushings probably another thing worth buying when converting a GSR.If you want save money change it whilst converting and avoid the extra costing and down time which what makes cars really expensive IMO and i see it daily.

Relocating an ariel i would consider a waste of money over new ralliart bushings
but then again alot of things in this world dont make sense to many.

All in all you will have a far more reliable car than an evo.
Lighter than an evo.
Faster than an evo.
Aussie EVO.

I drive one daily
And have builts dozons.
Serviced and restored 100,s.
Car weighs 1180KG,s ( 2 601 lb, lbs)

It regularly does 11.9 sec quarter miles runs.
16G turbo and meek automotive chipped factory ECU.
Meek automotive engine pipe.
Stock cat.
fujisubo RM01A cat back.
Stock intercooler .
Meek aluminum piping kit 2.5 inch.
e9 hks copy suction kit.
Meek E6 relocation battery tray.
264 cams.
Walbro.
Few engine mods and freshen up with forged rods and pistons.
Havent put a spanner to it since motor went in 1.5 years ago.

Whatever you do dont put that mitsubishi motors mistake skirt that says EVOIII on the side your mechanic will hate it.
And if he doesn,t hate it he doesn't give a f&^k.

Remember to keep focused on the performance and reliability goal.
Dont waste you money on an aftermarket ECU remember the car if you stay with the plan and take good advice it is a car your building not a circus ride like many think.
Essential body parts are bonnet and front bar thats all.
Plastic is a must for the front bar E2 bar and lips are still available.
For us fibre glass bonnets are best with our frequent hail storms in the west.
Its no freak show its better than an evo.
Build your own the way Mitsubishi australia intended it to be.

JeffDOZ

I was about to write to say go to the MEEK website in Australia, they have built dozens of them.