AMS recommended driveline fluids....
Dec 4, 2007, 10:12 AM
#32
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Great! I'll call you guys tomorrow and try to set uo something for this week. Only problem is that my work schedule is hectic. I just Mitsu and they want $69 for the lsd gear oil! (Diaqueen)
I'll have you guys drive it first and then i'll decide if I should purchase the Diaqueen. Thanks for all your help!
I'll have you guys drive it first and then i'll decide if I should purchase the Diaqueen. Thanks for all your help!
Dec 5, 2007, 11:34 PM
#33
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Ive had redline fluids in my drivetrain for months, from AMS, live in WI, 28,000mi, and no drivetrain noises or failures and no binding diff. I dont believe my car is special or one that just is cool with it.
I have a stage II Exeddy, TBE, AMS Flash, HKS EVC 6 and a drop in (basic bolt-ons). I assure you Ive driven the car hard many times.
I also use Redline MT-90 with SLW in my EP Prelude and my teamates FP CRX for years (as recommended to me a long time ago from someone at REALTIME). Ive also used it in many other different applications with no problems either. Its great oil. Its probably the #1 used oil in road racing. And it is definately better oil than the relabled super dooper royal mitsu oil.
A couple of additional points to consider.
The TA car also did one lap of america. With said fluids.
Keep in mind there are owners with whine and failures on the Mitsu fluid.
Heres some information about the oil:
Heavy ShockProof®
A unique lubricant containing a suspension of solid microscopic particles as an extreme pressure agent--unique solid dispersion which cushions gear teeth to help prevent tooth breakage and allows the use of lower viscosities.
Recommended for heavily-loaded racing differentials and transmissions, Off Road racing and problem gearboxes. The viscosity characteristics allow the lubricant to resist throwoff and provide a film thickness similar to a 75W250 grade, while providing the same low fluid friction as an SAE 75W90
And one a little more techy:
http://redlineoil.com/whitePaper/11.pdf
Either way, take the car to AMS, im sure they'll tell you if theres something to worry about. They know Evo's better than any dealership does.
They will take care of you.
I have a stage II Exeddy, TBE, AMS Flash, HKS EVC 6 and a drop in (basic bolt-ons). I assure you Ive driven the car hard many times.
I also use Redline MT-90 with SLW in my EP Prelude and my teamates FP CRX for years (as recommended to me a long time ago from someone at REALTIME). Ive also used it in many other different applications with no problems either. Its great oil. Its probably the #1 used oil in road racing. And it is definately better oil than the relabled super dooper royal mitsu oil.
A couple of additional points to consider.
The TA car also did one lap of america. With said fluids.
Keep in mind there are owners with whine and failures on the Mitsu fluid.
Heres some information about the oil:
Heavy ShockProof®
A unique lubricant containing a suspension of solid microscopic particles as an extreme pressure agent--unique solid dispersion which cushions gear teeth to help prevent tooth breakage and allows the use of lower viscosities.
Recommended for heavily-loaded racing differentials and transmissions, Off Road racing and problem gearboxes. The viscosity characteristics allow the lubricant to resist throwoff and provide a film thickness similar to a 75W250 grade, while providing the same low fluid friction as an SAE 75W90
And one a little more techy:
http://redlineoil.com/whitePaper/11.pdf
Either way, take the car to AMS, im sure they'll tell you if theres something to worry about. They know Evo's better than any dealership does.
They will take care of you.
Dec 6, 2007, 11:56 AM
#34
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Yeah I already have an appointment setup with them tomorrow. Like I said before i'm almost 100% positive it is the t/c. I even tested it while driving to work this morning. I thouht it might be my noisy winter tires but as soon as the clutch is depressed the sound disappears. I'm buying the Diaqueen from the dealer for AMS to put in the t/c and rear diff. I know AMS will take care of me more than any other shop but they obvious cannot honor warranty work. Since my car is basically stock with 25,000 miles on it I would like to keep the warranty long enough until I go crazy on it. I'm just doing this as a preventative measure, the sound my go away with the factory fluid and it may not. However it won't cause any warranty issues with the redline stuff out of my car. I love my car but i'm only 24 and want to focus on buying a house first and not having a 400hp monster while still renting if you get my drift....
Putting a rebuild shep t/c in my car is not needed since it's not even over 300hp and never tracked.
Putting a rebuild shep t/c in my car is not needed since it's not even over 300hp and never tracked.
Dec 6, 2007, 01:33 PM
#35
I don't know whether I should be upset at AMS or myself, i'm kinda both. I'm trying to keep my warranty because the car is stock except for a catback. I know that Mitsu will void my driveline warranty once they drain the redline fluid out. I should have done the fluid change myself but I was in the process of moving at the time and did not have a garage to use. What should I do?
Dec 6, 2007, 01:38 PM
#36
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I forgot to mention, the fluids we use in '03 - '06 EVO's are:
Transmission: LW Shockproof or MT-90 depending on application
Transfer Case: HD Shockproof
Rear Differential: HD Shockproof (w/LSD additive if desired)
These are the fluids we used for this gentleman's EVO. I wanted to clear up the confusion from the opening post where it was thought that Lightweight Shockproof was used in the transfer case, it was not.
Thank you.
Transmission: LW Shockproof or MT-90 depending on application
Transfer Case: HD Shockproof
Rear Differential: HD Shockproof (w/LSD additive if desired)
These are the fluids we used for this gentleman's EVO. I wanted to clear up the confusion from the opening post where it was thought that Lightweight Shockproof was used in the transfer case, it was not.
Thank you.
Dec 6, 2007, 01:59 PM
#37
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I forgot to mention, the fluids we use in '03 - '06 EVO's are:
Transmission: LW Shockproof or MT-90 depending on application
Transfer Case: HD Shockproof
Rear Differential: HD Shockproof (w/LSD additive if desired)
These are the fluids we used for this gentleman's EVO. I wanted to clear up the confusion from the opening post where it was thought that Lightweight Shockproof was used in the transfer case, it was not.
Thank you.
Transmission: LW Shockproof or MT-90 depending on application
Transfer Case: HD Shockproof
Rear Differential: HD Shockproof (w/LSD additive if desired)
These are the fluids we used for this gentleman's EVO. I wanted to clear up the confusion from the opening post where it was thought that Lightweight Shockproof was used in the transfer case, it was not.
Thank you.
In regards to adambl03 statement you are correct as long as the fluids meet the factory specifications such as gl-4 or gl-5. Unfortunately the only redline product that states this is the MT-90 for the tranny.
Dec 6, 2007, 06:30 PM
#38
Transmission: LW Shockproof or MT-90 depending on application
Transfer Case: HD Shockproof
Rear Differential: HD Shockproof (w/LSD additive if desired)
This is the same combo I use in my T2 evo, I guarantee it takes more abuse during the 40 minute races than you see in your car in a year. I first used the stock stuff in the t case and trans and after one practice/qual/race weekend, it looked as thin as Tea when I drained it. I have over 10k on My car with much of that on the track and never had a TC issue, Its not the fluid.
Marty
Transfer Case: HD Shockproof
Rear Differential: HD Shockproof (w/LSD additive if desired)
This is the same combo I use in my T2 evo, I guarantee it takes more abuse during the 40 minute races than you see in your car in a year. I first used the stock stuff in the t case and trans and after one practice/qual/race weekend, it looked as thin as Tea when I drained it. I have over 10k on My car with much of that on the track and never had a TC issue, Its not the fluid.
Marty
I personally like to deal with Santiago. Everyone at AMS is nice but I think Santiago has the friendliest personality. Just my opinion
Dec 6, 2007, 07:54 PM
#40
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In Puerto Rico most local shops use Redline for TC and rear diff, that what Colo(the guy that works on my tranny) recommended and thats what he uses in some of the fastest EVOs, I havent heard any bad things about it. I know everyone in EvoM paranoid about changing the fluids, but after 5 month a lot of things can happen, take the car back to AMS and let them take a look at it.
Also, I have a whine too in my TC for the last year and a half or more, after many miles and many 10 second passes at the track, I am not worried anymore.
But seriously, take the car back to them and explain the situation.
Also, I have a whine too in my TC for the last year and a half or more, after many miles and many 10 second passes at the track, I am not worried anymore.
But seriously, take the car back to them and explain the situation.
Dec 6, 2007, 08:04 PM
#41
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And another road racer with the same good things to say about it, thanks for chiming in Marty.
Sure sounds like a bad throw out bearing to me.
But back to the oil.
I found this to better explain:
What does API GL mean?
API stands for American Petroleum Industry and GL stands for Gear Lubricant, see below for their definitions:
API GL-1 Straight mineral oil
API GL-2 Mild EP for worm gears
API GL-3 Mild EP for spur and spiral bevel gears in axles and transmissions
API GL-4 Medium EP, MIL-L-2105 quality, moderate severity hypoid gears, manual transmissions
API GL-5 High EP, MIL-L-2105D quality, all hypoid axles, some manual transmissions
API GL-6 Extra high EP, now obsolete
What does EP mean?
EP means extreme pressure and refers to the additive used in gear oils. This additive is designed to stop metal-to-metal contact taking place between transmission components. The EP additives are usually based on sulphur and phosphorous. These elements bond to the metal surfaces where there are points of extreme pressure and temperature, forming a sacrificial chemical layer. The sulphur gives gear oils their characteristic smell.
Almost all cars today call for a GL4 or 5.
And taken from Redlines website:
The Heavy weight shock proof can be rated as a 75W250 Gear Oil, but has the lower internal fluid friction of an SAE 75W90.
With the above statment, the HWSP is easily a GL-4. Unless you think Redline is lying.
I have a feeling its the TOB.
...but as soon as the clutch is depressed the sound disappears.
But back to the oil.
I found this to better explain:
What does API GL mean?
API stands for American Petroleum Industry and GL stands for Gear Lubricant, see below for their definitions:
API GL-1 Straight mineral oil
API GL-2 Mild EP for worm gears
API GL-3 Mild EP for spur and spiral bevel gears in axles and transmissions
API GL-4 Medium EP, MIL-L-2105 quality, moderate severity hypoid gears, manual transmissions
API GL-5 High EP, MIL-L-2105D quality, all hypoid axles, some manual transmissions
API GL-6 Extra high EP, now obsolete
What does EP mean?
EP means extreme pressure and refers to the additive used in gear oils. This additive is designed to stop metal-to-metal contact taking place between transmission components. The EP additives are usually based on sulphur and phosphorous. These elements bond to the metal surfaces where there are points of extreme pressure and temperature, forming a sacrificial chemical layer. The sulphur gives gear oils their characteristic smell.
Almost all cars today call for a GL4 or 5.
And taken from Redlines website:
The Heavy weight shock proof can be rated as a 75W250 Gear Oil, but has the lower internal fluid friction of an SAE 75W90.
With the above statment, the HWSP is easily a GL-4. Unless you think Redline is lying.
I have a feeling its the TOB.
Dec 6, 2007, 09:05 PM
#42
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No I know what a bad throwout bearing sounds like and it's not that. It's not coming from the tranny. The sound is actually coming from underneath the car but it's hard to tell. Anyways I thought the sound disappeared once the clutch was depressed and it doesn't, it still makes the sound. I did notice that the sound get loudest when i'm at light throttle going 55 mph but it seems that the sound is always there even before or after the speed. At 55 mph on light throttle in 5th gear my exhaust tones out so I can actually hear the sound better but it's always there. It's strnage because the sound get moderately loud around that speed only in 5th gear.
So my question is that when t/c's are on their last legs and the sound is overbearing at pretty much any speed will the sound disappear once the clutch is depressed? Or is the transfer case still being used even in neutral? I really don't know the answer to this question. If the sound should disappear then I may have ruled the t/c out.
I'm bringing my car to AMS tomorrow at 3pm so i'll find out that point in time. I'm wondering if it can be my winter tires making that noise. I didn't notice the noise until I put on my winter tires but at that time we also started to see freezing temperatures. I plan on gettinga n alignment in the next week because my camber settings up front are still setup for summer use....negative 2 degrees. I also thought about a wheel bearing but it doesn't sound like that and usually wheel bearings make a much louder noise and then go out. On my old Talon tsi when my wheel bearing started making noise it didn't last more than 50 miles until my wheel basically dislodged itself from the hub.
So my question is that when t/c's are on their last legs and the sound is overbearing at pretty much any speed will the sound disappear once the clutch is depressed? Or is the transfer case still being used even in neutral? I really don't know the answer to this question. If the sound should disappear then I may have ruled the t/c out.
I'm bringing my car to AMS tomorrow at 3pm so i'll find out that point in time. I'm wondering if it can be my winter tires making that noise. I didn't notice the noise until I put on my winter tires but at that time we also started to see freezing temperatures. I plan on gettinga n alignment in the next week because my camber settings up front are still setup for summer use....negative 2 degrees. I also thought about a wheel bearing but it doesn't sound like that and usually wheel bearings make a much louder noise and then go out. On my old Talon tsi when my wheel bearing started making noise it didn't last more than 50 miles until my wheel basically dislodged itself from the hub.
Dec 7, 2007, 07:21 AM
#43
We have you scheduled to come in today. we were all a bit confused as to why you stated you had redline LW shockproof in your T-case so we pulled your original invoice and you were mistaken,we put redline HW shockproof in your T-case. Just so you know you do NOT have LW in the T-case...which is correct You should have HW in the T-case as we supplied
Eric
Eric
Dec 7, 2007, 07:52 AM
#45
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Yeah Santiago cleared that up when i spoke to him the other day. I checked my invoice and it's stated that they did put LW in the tranny and HW in the t/c and rear diff.
I apologize for the confusion but I also questioned that when you guys changed it back in July. The guy (who I can't remember) told me that they use three fluids. They will put MT-90 in the tranny, LW in t/c, and H/W in rear diff. I failed to look at the receipt afterward which stated what you said. Needless to say i'm happy that there is HW in the t/c and not LW.
I will have you guys test drive the car today to see if you think it's the t/c but either way I'll have you guys put the Diaqueen in the t/c and rear diff and then I'll have you put MT-90 in the tranny. It's due for a change soon too. I usually like to do it twice a year.
I apologize for the confusion but I also questioned that when you guys changed it back in July. The guy (who I can't remember) told me that they use three fluids. They will put MT-90 in the tranny, LW in t/c, and H/W in rear diff. I failed to look at the receipt afterward which stated what you said. Needless to say i'm happy that there is HW in the t/c and not LW.
I will have you guys test drive the car today to see if you think it's the t/c but either way I'll have you guys put the Diaqueen in the t/c and rear diff and then I'll have you put MT-90 in the tranny. It's due for a change soon too. I usually like to do it twice a year.