Boost3dxEvO

iTrader: (135)

I also have this thread in the turbo/drivetrain section because I would like insight from the community as well.. I also spoke to a guy on the phone yesterday (I'm not going to say his name on the forum, but I can be pmed and will let you know who it was via PM). and He did not seem very knowledgeable about this clutch and wasn't much help at all.. He also told my engine builder that you do not need the OEM starter/rear plate in addition to the one supplied by AMS, but I talked to a few people that have this clutch and they said they installed both plates for clearances.. so apparently this guy should not be answering technical support questions.. Anyways though, I just really hope that I can solve this issue since i did just spend 2300$ on it through you guys.. I obviously can't run my new motor because of the issues I'm facing with this clutch..

Here is the issues addressed:

I bought a brand new AMS Push Style Exedy Twin Plate Clutch (Straight from AMS). I just installed it and haven't even been able to drive the car yet because the clutch is simply not disengaging.. Both my mechanic and I are new to the Push Style clutches aka hydraulic TOB's . The clutch is bled all of the way and we even adjusted the pedal SEVERAL times. When the clutch was installed, my mechanic went by the exedy and AMS directions to a "t." The only thing that was not done that was overlooked was the OEM "Rear Plate" was not installed because AMS included a new one with the clutch, but apparently you need to run the OEM AND the AMS one for bell housing to clutch clearances (acts as a spacer). I talked to Exedy and they stated that this would not cause the clutch to not disengage.. So I'm really wondering what is the issue.. I hope that we didn't just get a defective unit.

Anyways, we are going to be pulling the tranny.. So what exactly needs to be paid attention to in detail? I'm assuming obviously how the disks/clutch in general was put together.. I do realize that you can put the disks in "backwards." Also, maybe the hydraulic lines need to be switched.. I guess it could really be a ton of things.. I just hope some one had a similar issue and will let me know how they overcame this so i can get my car back on the road.. We disconnected the Hydraulic TOB and we were able to torque the Crank bolt so obviously the clutch is grabbing like it should be.. It just simply won't engage.. Also, the shifter is having trouble going into gears even with the car turned off and the clutch pushed to the floor.. I'm thinking that also has something to do with this clutch issue.. We tried to start the car in gear but it just moved and stalled out.. so it won't even start in gear, which is the disengagement part I am talking about.. If you need any more info, please let me know.. I really hope you guys can help me out!!!

Ivan@AMS

I am sorry for your troubles and for the misinformation you were relayed about the second spacer plate. Please PM me the sales associates name so I can provide him the proper information.

If you are getting good pedal pressure, I would rule out a clutch master / hydraulic TOB issue. Hydraulic line orientation is a very unlikely cause. I would then lean towards a plate being installed backwards.

Is your clutch a twin or triple? Did you get the full pull style clutch with a conversion cover / plate or was the clutch already converted to push in the box?

Boost3dxEvO

iTrader: (135)

Hey Ivan- I will PM you in a second.. First off, thank you for the quick response sir! Secondly, we are going to pull the tranny and check all of the plates.. My mechanic is 90% sure he installed the plates the right way because he mentioned how there is a front and a back plate and also how there are paint "balance" marks . He has installed several exedy twin HD's, but this is the first push style clutch he has installed to date.

The clutch is a Twin Plate and I bought it as a full new kit from you guys I want to say either last month or a couple of months ago.. My car has been sitting for over a year and I just piled parts together and obviously built the car over time.. Finally got the car running, but haven't driven it at all because of this clutch issue. I hope this helps, please let me know what it could all be. Exedy told me that it wouldn't be anything from their end because all he does is put the pressure plate together with the disks.. He said it has to be something from your guy's end, a hydraulic tob issue, or something with the hydraulic system.. Again, My mechanic and I don't have any experience with the "push style" clutches and the directions were followed to a "t," except for that spacer plate and your guy said it didn't need it.. but every one i know runs it.. Exedy also mentioned that they do not believe that the spacer plate would cause the disengagement issue. I'm really stumped and would like to get my car back on the road as soon as possible.. It is technically my daily driver and really need it back up soon for college. Also, is there any way I got either a bad hydraulic TOB or anything like that? Have you had any issues in the past? Thanks again so much!!

Ivan@AMS

There are lots of reasons it might not disengage. The most likely issue is one of the clutch disks was put in backwards. If you have proper pedal stroke and pressure, you can rule out a TOB issue. With the second spacer missing, it is more likely the clutch would slip rather than not release.

I am not aware of anybody experiencing any issues with the push style clutch so this will be new to all of us. When you get the trans out, check the fingers on the pressure plate. They should be flat not convex or concave. Make sure the blue paint lines up on the basket and intermediate disk. Pay close attention to the disks as they come out. they should not have been hitting the pressure plate, each other or the flywheel bolts.

Take some pictures and feel free to call the shop and ask for me.

Boost3dxEvO

iTrader: (135)

I truly appreciate this response.. I am going to be pulling the tranny on Tuesday so hopefully i will have pictures then and I will be able to diagnose the issue! Thanks so much again Ivan!

Boltz.

iTrader: (42)

I really just skimmed this thread, so if I'm pulling the repeater let it slide. Anyway it looks like your pulling the trans out again so I'd say check to see that a disc can slide nice and easy down the input shaft.

Boost3dxEvO

iTrader: (135)

I will check this whenever we pull it tomorrow, thanks for the input man

Boost3dxEvO

iTrader: (135)

Eric J at AMS just talked to me via AIM and answered a lot of questions and concerns from my end as well.. Thanks so much guys!! I can't wait to see what is holding my car up from moving