time for 1/8 and 1/4 mile trap speed - miles per hour / mph
Dec 18, 2004, 05:33 PM
#31
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if your stock you need to check the basics... very first thing is to reset the ECU. check if the mat is behind the gas pedal preventing you from going WOT, and confirm at the TB that you are getting WOT.
you said your boost guage is showing correct boost but double check your clamps. I checked mine after on 7,000 miles and they were not tight. Don't forget to check the tire pressures too.
also, you need to shift faster, I mean like you hate the car fast.
do those few things and you'll be suprised how much faster you go, consistantly.
you said your boost guage is showing correct boost but double check your clamps. I checked mine after on 7,000 miles and they were not tight. Don't forget to check the tire pressures too.
also, you need to shift faster, I mean like you hate the car fast.
do those few things and you'll be suprised how much faster you go, consistantly.
Dec 18, 2004, 07:35 PM
#33
Originally Posted by burningmoney97
ty for the great post - i guess it comes down to my timing at high mph. the computer is doing something. unfortunately there is no 4wd dyno on this rock. and i also dont like the miracle cures. will have to find a different way.
what would you think if i replaced the timing belt or some adjustable cam gears?
what would you think if i replaced the timing belt or some adjustable cam gears?
There is a chance that adjustable cam gears could help or that your A/F ratios could be adjusted and that would help too. However, anything you do without a specific reason and without knowing what and how you are efffecting changes is like shooting in the dark..... The chances of hitting anything are slim to none and there is always a chance that you'll hit the wrong target and do some real damage. Also, don't forget that you'll be throwing money away.....
If you can get some data logs of your timing and A/Fs under different rpms and engine loads, I'm positive that the more knowledgeable ppl in the board can interpret them and give you some concrete suggestions. With all due respect, the majority of the posters, including myself know squat about "real" tuning and troubleshooting, but many are very quick to give reams of advise and speak very authoritatively about **** they know little about.
Please save yourself a lot of grief, time and money. Get a capable person to datalog and diagnose the car or do it yourself and send the results to the pros. Then and only then start chaging **** in your car.....
Good luck
Dec 18, 2004, 09:15 PM
#34
Originally Posted by marksae
If you have intake leak, it'll cause your car to run pig rich. Depending on how bad the leak is, it could make you lose a good amount of power. Pressure test that intake!
Dec 18, 2004, 09:19 PM
#35
Originally Posted by AlwaysinBoost
if your stock you need to check the basics... very first thing is to reset the ECU. check if the mat is behind the gas pedal preventing you from going WOT, and confirm at the TB that you are getting WOT.
you said your boost guage is showing correct boost but double check your clamps. I checked mine after on 7,000 miles and they were not tight. Don't forget to check the tire pressures too.
also, you need to shift faster, I mean like you hate the car fast.
do those few things and you'll be suprised how much faster you go, consistantly.
you said your boost guage is showing correct boost but double check your clamps. I checked mine after on 7,000 miles and they were not tight. Don't forget to check the tire pressures too.
also, you need to shift faster, I mean like you hate the car fast.
do those few things and you'll be suprised how much faster you go, consistantly.
Dec 18, 2004, 09:21 PM
#36
Originally Posted by silverEVO8
I don't believe doing any changes will help and the chances are great that it will do harm..... If you don't have access to a dyno, try to get some data logging equipment. I have a Pocketlogger and although it's very basic, it can give you some indication of what is going on. I've seen Al do his dynoflash road tuning with a wide band O2 sensor, a knock link and some sort of OBDII code reader or data logger. If you can find a set up like that, you can begin to get some data that could help a lot.
There is a chance that adjustable cam gears could help or that your A/F ratios could be adjusted and that would help too. However, anything you do without a specific reason and without knowing what and how you are efffecting changes is like shooting in the dark..... The chances of hitting anything are slim to none and there is always a chance that you'll hit the wrong target and do some real damage. Also, don't forget that you'll be throwing money away.....
If you can get some data logs of your timing and A/Fs under different rpms and engine loads, I'm positive that the more knowledgeable ppl in the board can interpret them and give you some concrete suggestions. With all due respect, the majority of the posters, including myself know squat about "real" tuning and troubleshooting, but many are very quick to give reams of advise and speak very authoritatively about **** they know little about.
Please save yourself a lot of grief, time and money. Get a capable person to datalog and diagnose the car or do it yourself and send the results to the pros. Then and only then start chaging **** in your car.....
Good luck
There is a chance that adjustable cam gears could help or that your A/F ratios could be adjusted and that would help too. However, anything you do without a specific reason and without knowing what and how you are efffecting changes is like shooting in the dark..... The chances of hitting anything are slim to none and there is always a chance that you'll hit the wrong target and do some real damage. Also, don't forget that you'll be throwing money away.....
If you can get some data logs of your timing and A/Fs under different rpms and engine loads, I'm positive that the more knowledgeable ppl in the board can interpret them and give you some concrete suggestions. With all due respect, the majority of the posters, including myself know squat about "real" tuning and troubleshooting, but many are very quick to give reams of advise and speak very authoritatively about **** they know little about.
Please save yourself a lot of grief, time and money. Get a capable person to datalog and diagnose the car or do it yourself and send the results to the pros. Then and only then start chaging **** in your car.....
Good luck
Dec 18, 2004, 09:28 PM
#37
Originally Posted by burningmoney97
what happens if the car runs rich or lean? how the heck would you go about pressure testing an intake?
This should explain to you how to do an intake leak test.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
Dec 18, 2004, 09:49 PM
#38
Originally Posted by marksae
If you have an intake leak, it will cause your car to run richer than it's supposed to. What happens is that the air that gets metered through your MAF ends up not going into your engine. Running too rich usually causes you to lose power.
This should explain to you how to do an intake leak test.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
This should explain to you how to do an intake leak test.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
Dec 18, 2004, 09:54 PM
#39
Originally Posted by marksae
If you have an intake leak, it will cause your car to run richer than it's supposed to. What happens is that the air that gets metered through your MAF ends up not going into your engine. Running too rich usually causes you to lose power.
This should explain to you how to do an intake leak test.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
This should explain to you how to do an intake leak test.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
Dec 18, 2004, 09:55 PM
#40
Originally Posted by silverEVO8
If you have something like a blow IC hose or another intake leak, the car will run like crap. IMHO, the problems you might have are not caused by such things as these.
Dec 18, 2004, 09:59 PM
#41
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I've been on that track with my evo. this is from my fastest run.
rt - .882
60' - 1.928
1/8 et - 8.676
1/8 mph - 78.37
1/4 et - 13.666
1/4 mph - 99.09
I've had crappy launches where the rpms would drop around 3k and I came in at around 14.5. Funny thing is I've had better 60s since then but I could never beat the 13.666. I've tried different shift points (redline, 7400, 6000) but still nothing.
My car was stock also. When I launch I slip the clutch until I feel that the rpms wont drop below 4000 or so.
rt - .882
60' - 1.928
1/8 et - 8.676
1/8 mph - 78.37
1/4 et - 13.666
1/4 mph - 99.09
I've had crappy launches where the rpms would drop around 3k and I came in at around 14.5. Funny thing is I've had better 60s since then but I could never beat the 13.666. I've tried different shift points (redline, 7400, 6000) but still nothing.
My car was stock also. When I launch I slip the clutch until I feel that the rpms wont drop below 4000 or so.
Dec 18, 2004, 10:13 PM
#42
Originally Posted by burningmoney97
so if its running lean it will run like crap , and if its running too rich it will run normal, just not have the power?
Personally, I don't believe the stock EVOs run so rich as to cause any of the above mentioned symptoms. I guess they could run rich enough to affect performance, but I doubt it. My '03 GSR made more power after it was modified even though it was running so rich that raw gas was practically pouring out of the tail pipe.....
Dec 19, 2004, 09:34 PM
#43
Originally Posted by AtticusDemon
I've been on that track with my evo. this is from my fastest run.
rt - .882
60' - 1.928
1/8 et - 8.676
1/8 mph - 78.37
1/4 et - 13.666
1/4 mph - 99.09
I've had crappy launches where the rpms would drop around 3k and I came in at around 14.5. Funny thing is I've had better 60s since then but I could never beat the 13.666. I've tried different shift points (redline, 7400, 6000) but still nothing.
My car was stock also. When I launch I slip the clutch until I feel that the rpms wont drop below 4000 or so.
rt - .882
60' - 1.928
1/8 et - 8.676
1/8 mph - 78.37
1/4 et - 13.666
1/4 mph - 99.09
I've had crappy launches where the rpms would drop around 3k and I came in at around 14.5. Funny thing is I've had better 60s since then but I could never beat the 13.666. I've tried different shift points (redline, 7400, 6000) but still nothing.
My car was stock also. When I launch I slip the clutch until I feel that the rpms wont drop below 4000 or so.
Dec 19, 2004, 09:38 PM
#44
Originally Posted by silverEVO8
No, I don't think it works that way. If the car has a blown IC hose, it wont run period. If it has a very minor leak in the IC or anywhere after the MAS, it's gonna run like pure crap, I mean you'll know that the car is major sick. The car might be running too rich, in which case it'll make somewhat less power. If it's running way too rich, as when the ECU is reflashed too rich or the piggy-back or stand alone is tuned incorrectly, you'll see clouds of black smoke as well as black soot where the exhaust blows against the pavement, grass, walls or some hapless car parked behind it
Personally, I don't believe the stock EVOs run so rich as to cause any of the above mentioned symptoms. I guess they could run rich enough to affect performance, but I doubt it. My '03 GSR made more power after it was modified even though it was running so rich that raw gas was practically pouring out of the tail pipe.....
Personally, I don't believe the stock EVOs run so rich as to cause any of the above mentioned symptoms. I guess they could run rich enough to affect performance, but I doubt it. My '03 GSR made more power after it was modified even though it was running so rich that raw gas was practically pouring out of the tail pipe.....
