Cloud

iTrader: (4)

I was just mentioning that its funny that dynoflashes and boost leaks seems to be very familiar with one another. Do a search if you don't know what I mean.

But your response can't be helped, after all your Mr. Boost leak's left nut. You swing every direction he does.

GTVEVO

iTrader: (22)

The tune for the stock turbo won't work, Fuel and timing control will be off especially once you change manifolds. Your entire power line has changed don't expect it to do well, I mentioned this before. You can't slap on a turbo, not tune it and exepct it to do well. You would probably run better with a nonflashed ecu honestly. (no pun entended just becuase the custom tune is custom to the stock manifold and turbo)

I run the GT3076 and trapped 106-108 at only 19-20psi with a 3-3.5 sec 60 foot time on 91 **** fuel and still ran high 13's very low 14's. This was even with a turbine hotside problem that is now fixed. It has potentional once you get it tuned and lined out, good luck.

4ringturncoat

iTrader: (21)

Guys, the tune difference is not that bad between the 30r and stock turbo, I know, I just did it last year! I had a dynoflash tuned for a stock turbo and went to a 30r with no other changes, yes the tune was off but not that bad. He has a SAFC and should able to get pretty close with it. He just needs to watch how much fuel he pulls out for the alky to be sure the timing doesnt go through the roof.

If his afrs are where he says they are then there is something else wrong with the car. Go back to simple diagnostics...boost leaks, compression, fuel, bov leaking, plugs...start at the maf and work your way back. Make sure the turbo is on tight, check your wg to see what pressure it cracks open, same with the bov. Do a pressure test. Be thorough and do it right. Spend a Saturday checking everything before you try and tune again.

GTVEVO

iTrader: (22)

4ring, you was running a buschur kit with a cast manifold very similar to the stock manifold and a very good piece. He is running the RnR tublar manifold just as I do on my car. When I changed I had to change my ign timing stragity to make the most power safely so I don't see why he wouldn't be in the same boat. I know each car reacts different but it would explain for some of the lost power if this was the case. <-- Notice I say sum becuase I also believe it isn't the entire reason, there are other things as well that must be giving him issues.

In my case using the tublar manifold the detonation zone 5000-5600 peak torque zones was much more noticeable.

4ringturncoat

iTrader: (21)

You might be right about the timing. I have heard a few guys getting some knock when switching. How much timing did you have to pull? What were you running for afr's?

TrinaBabe

iTrader: (3)

I think hes blowing hot air into the atmosphere Check for boost leaks... also check for signs of detonation... perhaps your pulling a ton of timing? Your driving aint good but your car sucks more it seems.

4ringturncoat

iTrader: (21)

I have to ask...how do you run a 3.5 60' time

GTVEVO

iTrader: (22)

Just tuning back last summer, I was having some issues so I would just roll off the line normally then nail it in 1st about 4-5k rpm. I was trying to conserve the stock clutch especially on the sticky track.

At this time I was shooting for a 11.0 afr on 91 pump and I ended up pulling like 3 deg of timing in the det zones but I was able to ramp up high in the upper rpm range. It was a give and take situation.

Issues are all sorted now and this year will be much different don't worry.

okevolutionVIII

iTrader: (71)

My 2.3 60' was because it was my first time at the track with the Dynoflash 2 step and the tires grabbed the track too much. On the street, I cant get the car to hook up through 1st gear and starts going sideways. I'm still looking for time to look for a boost leak, I just busy all the time. FYI, I have never been to the track with the car tuned. Last night I did some more messing with AFRs. I kept pulling fuel out until it was flat with the Dynoflash and it was still at 10.8 so I just left it but haven't drove it hard tell a difference. I'm going to pull more out if everything goes ok. I'm guessing that will help the injectors out a bit. I just dont get it because the turbo hits boost more violently that the stock turbo. And I cant shift fast without grinding and/or missing the gear. The only time I nailed a flatshift in the Evo was my first time to do it from 3rd to 4th with no grind, went smoothly. After that, it was the same tranny that was notchy and would allow fast shifting. I still use Synchromesh.

4ringturncoat

iTrader: (21)

How much fuel did you pull out and where? What psi is you alky hitting? Watch your timing if you are starting to get past 10% in the 3500rpm to 5500rpm area. You could be going to a more aggressive timing map right in your peak torque area possible inducing some detonation. Can you log afr's or are you only going by a gauge?

okevolutionVIII

iTrader: (71)

I started out by adding 7-8% of fuel over the Dynoflash, now it is at 0%. The Alky comes on at 16-17psi. BTW, I normally use water on the street and a mix at the track. I am reading the AFR's off a LM-1, no AuxBox to log air/fuel. Could the advanced timing in the wrong rpm range make the car that slow? My main concern is getting my trap speed up about 15-20mph where it should be. 101mph is not good for 24psi.

okevolutionVIII

iTrader: (71)

I'm going to try and run 20psi without the alky and see if there is a huge difference, the flash was for 20psi. I just need to make a list of things to go over on the car.

okevolutionVIII

iTrader: (71)

My car was in no way messed up from the beginning. I beat a modded Ram-Air TA, 3000GT VR-4, 3 modded ls1 Z-28s, all from a roll stock, after all the mods I did, I wasnt impressed until I did a self-tune and knocked over a second off my 1/4 from the 1st time I went to the track.

GTVEVO

iTrader: (22)

If you can hang in there, you will end up nailing it down. It has to be somthing.

4ringturncoat

iTrader: (21)

Watch what you do here...don't make a 3rd gear run with no alky right now. I would make sure your can log afrs/rpm before you go to far from here. I still think you have a problem in the 3500-5500 rpm range you cantt see without logging. I would try bumping up the alky hit to around 19 psi and run at least a 50/50 mix. Why not run 100 alky?

I think if you log it right now you will see a big dip when the alky hits and you would also see afrs slow to recover after a shift.