Drag set up questions
Sep 19, 2007, 10:56 PM
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Drag set up questions
Ok ive done some searching and im looking for the best DD with track(drag) in mind suspension set up? Basicly its a daily driver that will see the track 2-3 times a month....im fairly new to the AWD world and i have come to understand that tires really dont mean **** and you can cut 1.8's or lower with just about anything.....but how about motor mounts or engine dampeners....bushing kits....DR's (thinking more of safety minded for the driveline to break less ****).....
Or do you guys drive your 8's and 9's to the track as is, pay, and launch???
Or do you guys drive your 8's and 9's to the track as is, pay, and launch???
Sep 20, 2007, 08:46 AM
#3
I'm sure a lot of this depend on how much HP you are making and leaving with off the line.
My car before the motor went 474 hp went 1.7 60ft and ran 10.85 @ 125 on basically stock susp except for Tein springs on Advans.
With the new motor in i'm going to see how much the stock susp can handle.
My general fear is too much weight transfer to the back causing too much wheel hop up front and then ............breakage
I'd like to run 4 DR's w/ the susp as is and see what that does.
Then i'll step up to some coilovers w/ adjustable shocks and a fairly stiff spring rate if need be.
My car before the motor went 474 hp went 1.7 60ft and ran 10.85 @ 125 on basically stock susp except for Tein springs on Advans.
With the new motor in i'm going to see how much the stock susp can handle.
My general fear is too much weight transfer to the back causing too much wheel hop up front and then ............breakage
I'd like to run 4 DR's w/ the susp as is and see what that does.
Then i'll step up to some coilovers w/ adjustable shocks and a fairly stiff spring rate if need be.
Last edited by PATRICK B.; Sep 20, 2007 at 08:48 AM.
Sep 20, 2007, 12:58 PM
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so if you had coilovers how would you set them up....obviously you would want soft up front since it sees the power first but how would you set the rear tol handle that power shift???
Any specific advans for drag racing or did you just have a wheel that was serving cosmetic puposes? I am also curious what DR's will do with a near stock set up...is their a cheater wheel (on SRT's we used the steel rims off the PT cruisers for drag set ups) or just slap DR's on stock rim???The reason i ask is because i plan on buying a second set of evo 8 rims (used) for fairly cheap and just turning them into a drag/race set up only, or is their a cheaper/better alternative!
Any specific advans for drag racing or did you just have a wheel that was serving cosmetic puposes? I am also curious what DR's will do with a near stock set up...is their a cheater wheel (on SRT's we used the steel rims off the PT cruisers for drag set ups) or just slap DR's on stock rim???The reason i ask is because i plan on buying a second set of evo 8 rims (used) for fairly cheap and just turning them into a drag/race set up only, or is their a cheaper/better alternative!
Sep 20, 2007, 01:57 PM
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i was cutting high 1.3's low 1.4 with a set of custom valved KW variant 3's with 6k front springs and 10k rears, on some stickyBFG KD tires leaving at 7000rpm and 0 weight reduction on an 05 SSL 8.
the key is to slightly haze the tires as to not bog the motor but not so much that you come out of the hole sideways. one problem you will find when you learn to launch the car for all it is worth is that the front tires will come up and spin reducing your 60's, travel limiters as well as a rear suspension that will keep the *** end from unloading the front tires is key. remember that the car is primarily front wheel drive so if the fronts are spinning it will take a few 10ths of a second to direct the power to the rear.
DO NOT run ET streets on the car, you will destroy the Front and center diff. If you wan to run DR's a set of MT DR's will be more than enough. run 15-17psi and shock them hard of the line to get them to hook best.
the key is to slightly haze the tires as to not bog the motor but not so much that you come out of the hole sideways. one problem you will find when you learn to launch the car for all it is worth is that the front tires will come up and spin reducing your 60's, travel limiters as well as a rear suspension that will keep the *** end from unloading the front tires is key. remember that the car is primarily front wheel drive so if the fronts are spinning it will take a few 10ths of a second to direct the power to the rear.
DO NOT run ET streets on the car, you will destroy the Front and center diff. If you wan to run DR's a set of MT DR's will be more than enough. run 15-17psi and shock them hard of the line to get them to hook best.
Sep 20, 2007, 02:19 PM
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let me just fully state that i do intend on buying a shep tranny and stage 2 shep X-case...but they be a ways away so im trying to drag race in the safest manner possible without breaking anything...power level would be 430ish hsp but more importantly 320 tq using a 20g green turbo with every bolt on (twin plate clutch)....so what im picking up is:
Engine dampener (sort of motor mount)
no one uses bushings (for drag racing)
Eventually adj coilovers
? Drag radials? and what size?
Sorry for so many questions but are you guys running a regular nitto or bfg drag radial matched to a stock wheel or are you going for a 15" rim so you get a better contact patch???
Engine dampener (sort of motor mount)
no one uses bushings (for drag racing)
Eventually adj coilovers
? Drag radials? and what size?
Sorry for so many questions but are you guys running a regular nitto or bfg drag radial matched to a stock wheel or are you going for a 15" rim so you get a better contact patch???
Sep 20, 2007, 02:58 PM
#7
I would like to run on 255/45 17 BFG DR's on stock wheels but i think i'll need some coilovers for height adjustment to get them to fit.
The best DR out if the MT but they don't have a 17" size to fit the stock brakes just a 275/40 that i ran on my old 03 Cobra.
Those DR's netted 1.5x 60 ft's on the stock IRS and over 600rwhp
General rule i follow is a little spin is good, too much will probably equal wheel hop, and not enough is a big fat BOG
I'd like to see 1.5's in the 60ft w/ just DR's and over 500 hp on a Mustang Dyno
The best DR out if the MT but they don't have a 17" size to fit the stock brakes just a 275/40 that i ran on my old 03 Cobra.
Those DR's netted 1.5x 60 ft's on the stock IRS and over 600rwhp
General rule i follow is a little spin is good, too much will probably equal wheel hop, and not enough is a big fat BOG
I'd like to see 1.5's in the 60ft w/ just DR's and over 500 hp on a Mustang Dyno
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Sep 20, 2007, 04:50 PM
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i had 400whp 400wtq on a stock turbo, stock cams, and injectors had no problem leaving like a raped ape on my setup. 7.1 in the 1/8 @ 100mph and 10.90 in the 1/4 @ 119
this was with a RPS Twin Carbon Clutch
this was with a RPS Twin Carbon Clutch
Sep 20, 2007, 07:20 PM
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i was cutting high 1.3's low 1.4 with a set of custom valved KW variant 3's with 6k front springs and 10k rears, on some stickyBFG KD tires leaving at 7000rpm and 0 weight reduction on an 05 SSL 8.
the key is to slightly haze the tires as to not bog the motor but not so much that you come out of the hole sideways. one problem you will find when you learn to launch the car for all it is worth is that the front tires will come up and spin reducing your 60's, travel limiters as well as a rear suspension that will keep the *** end from unloading the front tires is key. remember that the car is primarily front wheel drive so if the fronts are spinning it will take a few 10ths of a second to direct the power to the rear.
DO NOT run ET streets on the car, you will destroy the Front and center diff. If you wan to run DR's a set of MT DR's will be more than enough. run 15-17psi and shock them hard of the line to get them to hook best.
the key is to slightly haze the tires as to not bog the motor but not so much that you come out of the hole sideways. one problem you will find when you learn to launch the car for all it is worth is that the front tires will come up and spin reducing your 60's, travel limiters as well as a rear suspension that will keep the *** end from unloading the front tires is key. remember that the car is primarily front wheel drive so if the fronts are spinning it will take a few 10ths of a second to direct the power to the rear.
DO NOT run ET streets on the car, you will destroy the Front and center diff. If you wan to run DR's a set of MT DR's will be more than enough. run 15-17psi and shock them hard of the line to get them to hook best.
Can you post a time slip lol
You are talking some crazy **** here man, from the high 1.3 60ft on a 05 SSL Evo VIII with BFG KD (not even a drag radial) and no weight reduction. To setting the car like a FWD car, to ET streets lol (some people run full slicks!) And runnig 10.9@119 and 100mph in the 1/8 with 400WHP on stock cams, injectors and turbo and 0 weight reduction. I'm sorry that's a little bit to much!
Oct 13, 2007, 06:59 PM
#11
i was cutting high 1.3's low 1.4 with a set of custom valved KW variant 3's with 6k front springs and 10k rears, on some stickyBFG KD tires leaving at 7000rpm and 0 weight reduction on an 05 SSL 8.
the key is to slightly haze the tires as to not bog the motor but not so much that you come out of the hole sideways. one problem you will find when you learn to launch the car for all it is worth is that the front tires will come up and spin reducing your 60's, travel limiters as well as a rear suspension that will keep the *** end from unloading the front tires is key. remember that the car is primarily front wheel drive so if the fronts are spinning it will take a few 10ths of a second to direct the power to the rear.
DO NOT run ET streets on the car, you will destroy the Front and center diff. If you wan to run DR's a set of MT DR's will be more than enough. run 15-17psi and shock them hard of the line to get them to hook best.
the key is to slightly haze the tires as to not bog the motor but not so much that you come out of the hole sideways. one problem you will find when you learn to launch the car for all it is worth is that the front tires will come up and spin reducing your 60's, travel limiters as well as a rear suspension that will keep the *** end from unloading the front tires is key. remember that the car is primarily front wheel drive so if the fronts are spinning it will take a few 10ths of a second to direct the power to the rear.
DO NOT run ET streets on the car, you will destroy the Front and center diff. If you wan to run DR's a set of MT DR's will be more than enough. run 15-17psi and shock them hard of the line to get them to hook best.
Oct 13, 2007, 07:04 PM
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i was cutting high 1.3's low 1.4 with a set of custom valved KW variant 3's with 6k front springs and 10k rears, on some stickyBFG KD tires leaving at 7000rpm and 0 weight reduction on an 05 SSL 8.
the key is to slightly haze the tires as to not bog the motor but not so much that you come out of the hole sideways. one problem you will find when you learn to launch the car for all it is worth is that the front tires will come up and spin reducing your 60's, travel limiters as well as a rear suspension that will keep the *** end from unloading the front tires is key. remember that the car is primarily front wheel drive so if the fronts are spinning it will take a few 10ths of a second to direct the power to the rear.
DO NOT run ET streets on the car, you will destroy the Front and center diff. If you wan to run DR's a set of MT DR's will be more than enough. run 15-17psi and shock them hard of the line to get them to hook best.
the key is to slightly haze the tires as to not bog the motor but not so much that you come out of the hole sideways. one problem you will find when you learn to launch the car for all it is worth is that the front tires will come up and spin reducing your 60's, travel limiters as well as a rear suspension that will keep the *** end from unloading the front tires is key. remember that the car is primarily front wheel drive so if the fronts are spinning it will take a few 10ths of a second to direct the power to the rear.
DO NOT run ET streets on the car, you will destroy the Front and center diff. If you wan to run DR's a set of MT DR's will be more than enough. run 15-17psi and shock them hard of the line to get them to hook best.
Oct 14, 2007, 04:57 AM
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i was cutting high 1.3's low 1.4 with a set of custom valved KW variant 3's with 6k front springs and 10k rears, on some stickyBFG KD tires leaving at 7000rpm and 0 weight reduction on an 05 SSL 8.
the key is to slightly haze the tires as to not bog the motor but not so much that you come out of the hole sideways. one problem you will find when you learn to launch the car for all it is worth is that the front tires will come up and spin reducing your 60's, travel limiters as well as a rear suspension that will keep the *** end from unloading the front tires is key. remember that the car is primarily front wheel drive so if the fronts are spinning it will take a few 10ths of a second to direct the power to the rear.
DO NOT run ET streets on the car, you will destroy the Front and center diff. If you wan to run DR's a set of MT DR's will be more than enough. run 15-17psi and shock them hard of the line to get them to hook best.
the key is to slightly haze the tires as to not bog the motor but not so much that you come out of the hole sideways. one problem you will find when you learn to launch the car for all it is worth is that the front tires will come up and spin reducing your 60's, travel limiters as well as a rear suspension that will keep the *** end from unloading the front tires is key. remember that the car is primarily front wheel drive so if the fronts are spinning it will take a few 10ths of a second to direct the power to the rear.
DO NOT run ET streets on the car, you will destroy the Front and center diff. If you wan to run DR's a set of MT DR's will be more than enough. run 15-17psi and shock them hard of the line to get them to hook best.
Nice sales rating too
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