Diagnose my 1/4 mile slips please
#17
Alright, I found another leak which were my injector seals so I ordered new o-rings and replaced them. I then retested everything and it is ZERO leak free. Plus I checked my turbo for and it has ZERO shaft play with 26k miles!
Ok, so I went to the track again and here are my results: I ran my car about 10 times but I'll only post a couple of the slips results. I tried shifting at 7k rpms, 7.5 rpms, and even 8krpms. But 7.5k gave me best results.
Shifting at ~ 7.5k rpms
R/T .560
60' 1.721
330 5.199
1/8 8.151
MPH 28.17
1000 10.732
1/4 12.850
MPH 109.43
.426
1.716
5.167
8.125
28.64
28.64
10.665
12.786
109.22
Then I tried WOT shifting just on one pass. (only when shfting to 3rd and to 4th gear)
.644
1.737
5.214
8.116
28.80
10.624
12.712
110.13
So I am still not that happy with the results at the track so I ordered a wideband now. I did get tuned on my car with 2 major leaks. One at my boost gauge and another at my injector seals. So I'm going to get in touch with my tuner because I might need to get re-tuned since the tune I have on my car might not be optimal due to the leaks at that time.
Also I did trap 106 in the beginning but then I readjusted my maf to lower that cylinder inside and my mph jumped to 107 then it went up to 109's. I think that that cylinder doesnt really do much in the tune but it was put in more to fine tune the maf readings / af ratios at the factory.
Ok, so I went to the track again and here are my results: I ran my car about 10 times but I'll only post a couple of the slips results. I tried shifting at 7k rpms, 7.5 rpms, and even 8krpms. But 7.5k gave me best results.
Shifting at ~ 7.5k rpms
R/T .560
60' 1.721
330 5.199
1/8 8.151
MPH 28.17
1000 10.732
1/4 12.850
MPH 109.43
.426
1.716
5.167
8.125
28.64
28.64
10.665
12.786
109.22
Then I tried WOT shifting just on one pass. (only when shfting to 3rd and to 4th gear)
.644
1.737
5.214
8.116
28.80
10.624
12.712
110.13
So I am still not that happy with the results at the track so I ordered a wideband now. I did get tuned on my car with 2 major leaks. One at my boost gauge and another at my injector seals. So I'm going to get in touch with my tuner because I might need to get re-tuned since the tune I have on my car might not be optimal due to the leaks at that time.
Also I did trap 106 in the beginning but then I readjusted my maf to lower that cylinder inside and my mph jumped to 107 then it went up to 109's. I think that that cylinder doesnt really do much in the tune but it was put in more to fine tune the maf readings / af ratios at the factory.
#19
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It's cool when people update threads with solutions to problems - props to you!
Sounds like your on the right path. A fresh tune should finish putting you where you need to be
Sounds like your on the right path. A fresh tune should finish putting you where you need to be
#20
I think the 1/8 mile mph readings were messed up at the track.
If you look inside the maf housing, on the bottom there is a cylinder wall. If I'm not mistaken Mitsubishi used it to do fine tuning with the a/f. This wall could be adjusted up or down to clear the air flow path on the bottom. I dont know how much it affects anything, but the actual maf sensor parts are housed inside the middle square on top of it. So it shouldnt affect the actual sensors readings (in my opinion), but it might let a little extra air since your basically removing a wall.
#22
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I asked about the 1/8 MPH because if it was actually 88 instead of 28, that'd be a 5 MPH increase over your original runs, which would be huge.
It looks like you did pick up a good bit from fixing the boost. Comparing your best original run to your non-WOT shifted latest run, you pick up about 0.1 in the 60', 0.2 at 330, and then just around 0.3 at 1000'. Then you cap it off with 4 extra MPH in the 1/4. So yea, your 60' picked up some of that, but your car was definitely accelerating faster this time out.
109-ish isn't too far off on an IX with an exhaust, air filter and boost controller, and that's good for 12.2 with excellent driving. Maybe one less muffler and cooler weather (and maybe another PSI or two of boost - most folks taper to 20 PSI) would put you right on the mark with what folks normally see. One thing to keep in mind is that most people don't post times when they're lousy, and there's a lot of 14-second EVOs out there that you never hear about. I know there's a ton of EVO owners that would kill for a 109 MPH in the 1/4.
Tom
It looks like you did pick up a good bit from fixing the boost. Comparing your best original run to your non-WOT shifted latest run, you pick up about 0.1 in the 60', 0.2 at 330, and then just around 0.3 at 1000'. Then you cap it off with 4 extra MPH in the 1/4. So yea, your 60' picked up some of that, but your car was definitely accelerating faster this time out.
109-ish isn't too far off on an IX with an exhaust, air filter and boost controller, and that's good for 12.2 with excellent driving. Maybe one less muffler and cooler weather (and maybe another PSI or two of boost - most folks taper to 20 PSI) would put you right on the mark with what folks normally see. One thing to keep in mind is that most people don't post times when they're lousy, and there's a lot of 14-second EVOs out there that you never hear about. I know there's a ton of EVO owners that would kill for a 109 MPH in the 1/4.
Tom
#23
I asked about the 1/8 MPH because if it was actually 88 instead of 28, that'd be a 5 MPH increase over your original runs, which would be huge.
It looks like you did pick up a good bit from fixing the boost. Comparing your best original run to your non-WOT shifted latest run, you pick up about 0.1 in the 60', 0.2 at 330, and then just around 0.3 at 1000'. Then you cap it off with 4 extra MPH in the 1/4. So yea, your 60' picked up some of that, but your car was definitely accelerating faster this time out.
109-ish isn't too far off on an IX with an exhaust, air filter and boost controller, and that's good for 12.2 with excellent driving. Maybe one less muffler and cooler weather (and maybe another PSI or two of boost - most folks taper to 20 PSI) would put you right on the mark with what folks normally see. One thing to keep in mind is that most people don't post times when they're lousy, and there's a lot of 14-second EVOs out there that you never hear about. I know there's a ton of EVO owners that would kill for a 109 MPH in the 1/4.
Tom
It looks like you did pick up a good bit from fixing the boost. Comparing your best original run to your non-WOT shifted latest run, you pick up about 0.1 in the 60', 0.2 at 330, and then just around 0.3 at 1000'. Then you cap it off with 4 extra MPH in the 1/4. So yea, your 60' picked up some of that, but your car was definitely accelerating faster this time out.
109-ish isn't too far off on an IX with an exhaust, air filter and boost controller, and that's good for 12.2 with excellent driving. Maybe one less muffler and cooler weather (and maybe another PSI or two of boost - most folks taper to 20 PSI) would put you right on the mark with what folks normally see. One thing to keep in mind is that most people don't post times when they're lousy, and there's a lot of 14-second EVOs out there that you never hear about. I know there's a ton of EVO owners that would kill for a 109 MPH in the 1/4.
Tom
I guess I'm just looking for that high 11.8-11.9 @ 115-117 mph times/speed that other IX's with similar mods run.
Oh the mufflers on my car are complete 3" straight flow through with no tapers. They dont hurt performance especially on stock turbo, unless your counting the 7 lbs added for an extra muffler.
#25
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I think 115-117 MPH is optimistic unless you turn the boost way up. 110-112 is about what I'd expect as your car is now. Do you have some other threads that show otherwise?
Re: the muffler comment - yea, it seems like the dual mufflers wouldn't be a big deal, but since you have a unique, quiet setup, I think the jury is still out whether two mufflers are zapping your performance somewhat.
Tom
Re: the muffler comment - yea, it seems like the dual mufflers wouldn't be a big deal, but since you have a unique, quiet setup, I think the jury is still out whether two mufflers are zapping your performance somewhat.
Tom
#26
I think 115-117 MPH is optimistic unless you turn the boost way up. 110-112 is about what I'd expect as your car is now. Do you have some other threads that show otherwise?
Re: the muffler comment - yea, it seems like the dual mufflers wouldn't be a big deal, but since you have a unique, quiet setup, I think the jury is still out whether two mufflers are zapping your performance somewhat.
Tom
Re: the muffler comment - yea, it seems like the dual mufflers wouldn't be a big deal, but since you have a unique, quiet setup, I think the jury is still out whether two mufflers are zapping your performance somewhat.
Tom
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/dr...d-low-11s.html
As for the exhaust. Buschur is running 2 mufflers on his car and dyno tested it to be something like 2-3 horsepower difference on his 500+ whp car. Only difference is that he has the 7" magnaflow and SD muffler while I have the 7" magnaflow and another 6" magnaflow. All the mufflers are straight flow through with no baffles restrictions or neck downs and look the same internally,
Now the only way I can see running straight flow through mufflers can hurt your system is on really high horsepower cars that push a lot of air. Maybe the ones closing in 1000 whp. And the logic of those applications being hurt is sound waves = pressure. The sound pressure actually helps push the air out, but as it gets muffled, then you have less pressure to push as fast. But thats just my guess. But if 500+ whp only saw 0-3 whp in which could have been anything like a cool down temp difference etc... then even higher whp cars should only see a little bit more loss (0-30 max). And less whp cars wouldnt seen any difference because we dont push those levels of exhaust. I could be wrong but so far from what little I know about cars, physics and countless research on engineering quiet exhausts lead me to believe I'm right.
As for update I have received the LC-1 wideband. When I get my pillar gauge pod I'll install it. I already got in contact with my tuner and he is awesome about getting me re-tuned hopefully soon in this week.
I'll keep you guys updated.
#27
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Here is one thread of Evo IX running 11's with 117 trap:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/dr...d-low-11s.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/dr...d-low-11s.html
Also, Most Wanted estimated 375 HP on a Dynojet to hit mid-11's, and that sounds about right to me. I'm thinking most folks with your mods are closer to 340 HP on an IX. It probably wouldn't hurt to have your tuning done on a dyno so you can see exactly where you are right now and where you are after the tune. If you can get close to that 375 HP mark, then you should be able to run the trap speeds you're hoping for.
Tom
#28
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This was a run with 100% stock RS down to the paper filter on 93 with only a 9sec9 tune. The car was run as delivered with zero weight reduction on Kuhmo all season radials.
Here is a sample run from that outing with stock boost levels.
60' 1.768
330 5.274
1/8 8.19
MPH 82.37
1000 10.72
1/4 12.86
MPH 104.84
It appears you have the MPH to run a low 12's with some driver mods. Take a look at your shifts and check to see if you are falling out of boost between shifts. Also check your logs for boost at the track as compared to your street tune. The loads and boost psi will be lower at the track and need to be compensated with the MBC. Good Luck you will get there it just takes practice. Indy
Here is a sample run from that outing with stock boost levels.
60' 1.768
330 5.274
1/8 8.19
MPH 82.37
1000 10.72
1/4 12.86
MPH 104.84
It appears you have the MPH to run a low 12's with some driver mods. Take a look at your shifts and check to see if you are falling out of boost between shifts. Also check your logs for boost at the track as compared to your street tune. The loads and boost psi will be lower at the track and need to be compensated with the MBC. Good Luck you will get there it just takes practice. Indy
Last edited by Indy Evo; Sep 1, 2009 at 03:39 AM.
#29
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And just to show you how much of a difference the driver mod makes, I have a slip in front of me with almost the exact same MPHs and 60's as Indy's, but I'm 0.17 sec behind in the 1/8 and almost 0.4 sec behind in the 1/4 mile. Indy Evo kicks everyone's *** in the shifting department!
Tom
Tom
#30
Well thanks for the replies guys. I've set a new goal to trap at least 113-114 to duplicate what most Evo IX's do instead of the one or two outliers (statistics term).
I see a lot are following this thread so I'll keep posting changes made and results.
Yesterday I received my wideband and I installed it quickly but didn't calibrate it correctly. So I had to remove it and my tuner installed his wide band. Turns out I wont be needing my Innovate LC1 for my application and only put about 20 miles on it. Anyways....
I did a pull in 3rd gear just to see how the previous tune that was made when I had couple huge boost leaks (at vacuum line and injector seals) and now with ZERO leaks my a/f were in the 9's !! So he began re-tuning my car and pulling out a lot of fuel. At the end I am running mid 11's a/f richening to low 11's near red line. I'm not looking to max out anything so I asked for a more conservative tune.
So with that said and done. I'm going to try and go to the track again to see if I can pull low 12's with at least 113-114 mph trap. More realistic numbers I guess.
When I go to the track I also test different things such as slow shifting, fast shifting and this time once I tried WOT shifting (no lift shift). I also went down the track once with a passenger but they told me I cant do it any more. So imagine how fast I am shifting at to be able to smoothly do a no lift shift within a window of 500 rpms . I'm not saying I'm a top driver, but I'm not too bad as far as shifting is concerned. But honestly at the end of the day I kind of feel bad like I really beat the crap out of the car with jamming the gears that fast.
I am falling out of boost because I release the acceleration pedal when shifting. Are you guys actually doing "no lift" shifting if your staying in boost during shifting?
I'll post results when I go to the track after a week or so.
I see a lot are following this thread so I'll keep posting changes made and results.
Yesterday I received my wideband and I installed it quickly but didn't calibrate it correctly. So I had to remove it and my tuner installed his wide band. Turns out I wont be needing my Innovate LC1 for my application and only put about 20 miles on it. Anyways....
I did a pull in 3rd gear just to see how the previous tune that was made when I had couple huge boost leaks (at vacuum line and injector seals) and now with ZERO leaks my a/f were in the 9's !! So he began re-tuning my car and pulling out a lot of fuel. At the end I am running mid 11's a/f richening to low 11's near red line. I'm not looking to max out anything so I asked for a more conservative tune.
So with that said and done. I'm going to try and go to the track again to see if I can pull low 12's with at least 113-114 mph trap. More realistic numbers I guess.
When I go to the track I also test different things such as slow shifting, fast shifting and this time once I tried WOT shifting (no lift shift). I also went down the track once with a passenger but they told me I cant do it any more. So imagine how fast I am shifting at to be able to smoothly do a no lift shift within a window of 500 rpms . I'm not saying I'm a top driver, but I'm not too bad as far as shifting is concerned. But honestly at the end of the day I kind of feel bad like I really beat the crap out of the car with jamming the gears that fast.
I am falling out of boost because I release the acceleration pedal when shifting. Are you guys actually doing "no lift" shifting if your staying in boost during shifting?
I'll post results when I go to the track after a week or so.