wht rpm is good to lauch ??
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Originally Posted by akunochi
/\
you should change your sig to:
PAIN IS YOUR TRANSFER CASE LEAVING YOUR CAR.
LOL J/k
you should change your sig to:
PAIN IS YOUR TRANSFER CASE LEAVING YOUR CAR.
LOL J/k
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I got from 5600-6300 depending on tire pressure, track, weather, etc, it really depends on a lot of variables, I would say 5900 is a pretty decent starting point if you have to pick on though...
#13
I posted this up for the Subaru guys as well as I taught a few Evo and other turbo AWD cars:
the car doesnt really build a significant amount of boost until 3k, so you will need to at least build that much boost to get the car going. When you look at the dyno graph, the peak torque is around 3000 to 4000 rpms, so that's where you want your rpms to be anyways when your clutch is fully engaged to put all the torque down (that's also the same time where your turbo will make the most boost).. yea I know, if you do that on an RWD car, you'll do a burnout without a problem.
You know how all the kids buy blow off valves and all they love to do is rev the motor at a light and let the BOV go off to get attention? Well, the turbo is making boost every time you rev.. the trick is to keep blipping and blipping to build boost WITHOUT allowing the BOV to go. This will create a buffer of air for the motor to gulp down when you finally go WOT on the engine. It's really a waste to see all that pressurized air goto waste like that I learned from my earlier years with the WRX.
The motor will make power so long as there is air in the system, and since it's based on the turbo needing to make pressure, you have to practice doing throttle blips to maintain the pressure to around 4 to 5 psi, if you can do to 7 psi, that's all the better. A boost gauge is handy at this point. You can also try and train yourself to hear the car and turbo (after many years of practicing in the WRX, I finally can do it on any turbo car without needing a boost gauge).
As you are about to slip in the clutch, your rpms should be at the up-swing of your final blip-and-hold of the throttle. When you launch correctly at that initial grab of the clutch, the car shouldnt bog at all, (if it did, that only means that you let the clutch out too fast).. the rpms should be around 2500 rpms when you slip it in and by that time, your turbo should be able to give you at least 3 psi or so.. as the boost builds up from the time you slip, the clutch will eventually catch around 3,000 rpms and your throttle foot should be near to wide open throttle at 3500 to build up the rest of the 7 to 10 psi worth of boost on 1st gear. I am normally completely off the clutch pedal by around 3,000 rpms or 3600 rpms if I dont have enough pre-boost made. This all happens seamlessly. I have a video of me launching my car at 2500 to 3000 rpms with just two-three quick blips:
http://media.putfile.com/GT-Legacy
at drag or pro-solo starts, I usually blip from 1,500 to 4,000 rpms with good long blips (and easy off on the throttle to prevent the stock bypass valve/BOV from releasing or venting the air out of the intercooler and back in further away from the throttle body) to get the turbo to spool. It takes about a good 2 to 3 blips to get the turbo to spool up and spin at a nice rate.. if you have a larger turbo, you'll need to blip longer and use higher rpm range.. again, it all depends on the size of the turbo.
The clutch will be able to catch around 2,500 to 3,000 rpms without a problem. If the flywheel spins too fast like 4000+ rpms and up, you'll just end up burning the clutch. If you do have a larger turbo, it's probably the same time where you will have an upgraded clutch to go with it so can maximize the use of the new power and clamping force to catch the higher rpms.
Rally launches take practice. I usually use the e-brake to hold the car as it's easier to use my whole foot on the throttle rather than doing it heel-toe style blipping. It's not something that you will get it right the first time, but it's very possible to get the hang of it within a day's worth of practice (about 20 to 50 launches).
Hope that helps.
the car doesnt really build a significant amount of boost until 3k, so you will need to at least build that much boost to get the car going. When you look at the dyno graph, the peak torque is around 3000 to 4000 rpms, so that's where you want your rpms to be anyways when your clutch is fully engaged to put all the torque down (that's also the same time where your turbo will make the most boost).. yea I know, if you do that on an RWD car, you'll do a burnout without a problem.
You know how all the kids buy blow off valves and all they love to do is rev the motor at a light and let the BOV go off to get attention? Well, the turbo is making boost every time you rev.. the trick is to keep blipping and blipping to build boost WITHOUT allowing the BOV to go. This will create a buffer of air for the motor to gulp down when you finally go WOT on the engine. It's really a waste to see all that pressurized air goto waste like that I learned from my earlier years with the WRX.
The motor will make power so long as there is air in the system, and since it's based on the turbo needing to make pressure, you have to practice doing throttle blips to maintain the pressure to around 4 to 5 psi, if you can do to 7 psi, that's all the better. A boost gauge is handy at this point. You can also try and train yourself to hear the car and turbo (after many years of practicing in the WRX, I finally can do it on any turbo car without needing a boost gauge).
As you are about to slip in the clutch, your rpms should be at the up-swing of your final blip-and-hold of the throttle. When you launch correctly at that initial grab of the clutch, the car shouldnt bog at all, (if it did, that only means that you let the clutch out too fast).. the rpms should be around 2500 rpms when you slip it in and by that time, your turbo should be able to give you at least 3 psi or so.. as the boost builds up from the time you slip, the clutch will eventually catch around 3,000 rpms and your throttle foot should be near to wide open throttle at 3500 to build up the rest of the 7 to 10 psi worth of boost on 1st gear. I am normally completely off the clutch pedal by around 3,000 rpms or 3600 rpms if I dont have enough pre-boost made. This all happens seamlessly. I have a video of me launching my car at 2500 to 3000 rpms with just two-three quick blips:
http://media.putfile.com/GT-Legacy
at drag or pro-solo starts, I usually blip from 1,500 to 4,000 rpms with good long blips (and easy off on the throttle to prevent the stock bypass valve/BOV from releasing or venting the air out of the intercooler and back in further away from the throttle body) to get the turbo to spool. It takes about a good 2 to 3 blips to get the turbo to spool up and spin at a nice rate.. if you have a larger turbo, you'll need to blip longer and use higher rpm range.. again, it all depends on the size of the turbo.
The clutch will be able to catch around 2,500 to 3,000 rpms without a problem. If the flywheel spins too fast like 4000+ rpms and up, you'll just end up burning the clutch. If you do have a larger turbo, it's probably the same time where you will have an upgraded clutch to go with it so can maximize the use of the new power and clamping force to catch the higher rpms.
Rally launches take practice. I usually use the e-brake to hold the car as it's easier to use my whole foot on the throttle rather than doing it heel-toe style blipping. It's not something that you will get it right the first time, but it's very possible to get the hang of it within a day's worth of practice (about 20 to 50 launches).
Hope that helps.
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