5 spd car, when neutral,can I apply the break without clutch?
#16
I never recommend coasting, even with the brakes on. It's best to always be in gear and somewhat near the powerband so you can make a fast getaway if you need it.
Also, if the car veers off the ideal line you can correct with the throttle. How can you steer with the throttle if you were in neutral? Now granted this is not something you do on the street, but sometimes you'll need that quick burst of acceleration to get out of the way of something.
The only time you should be coasting and applying the brakes is at parking lot speed.
Also, if the car veers off the ideal line you can correct with the throttle. How can you steer with the throttle if you were in neutral? Now granted this is not something you do on the street, but sometimes you'll need that quick burst of acceleration to get out of the way of something.
The only time you should be coasting and applying the brakes is at parking lot speed.
#18
This has been discussed/debated MANY times over the years. The common concensus is:
Engine breaking is hard on the drivetrain components... basically you are DOUBLING the wear on your engine and drivetrain. So instead of only 'burdening' these components when accelerating.. you are also doing the same 'wear' during breaking. Read this as.. you are basically putting a large amount of unneccesary stress on your car by driving this way. The engine is for accelerating.. the brakes or for decellerating.
Brakes are MUCH cheaper than the various items that are being stressed in your drivetrain. Brakes are a 'wear' item and designed to be replaced easily and cheaply.. Engine, drivetrain, transmission, etc are not designed to be replaced).
FURTHER, downshifting and allowing the engine to break upsets the natural balance of the car.. and will significantly decrease your lap times. If you would like to expand this point... engine braking is basically a fixed load... while braking can be applied smoothly... and the force can be controlled. We ALL know that Smooth = FAST.
But I am sure that your local repair shop (or Mitsubishi service) will be very happy to 'fix' your engine, drivetrain sooner than normal.
Engine breaking is hard on the drivetrain components... basically you are DOUBLING the wear on your engine and drivetrain. So instead of only 'burdening' these components when accelerating.. you are also doing the same 'wear' during breaking. Read this as.. you are basically putting a large amount of unneccesary stress on your car by driving this way. The engine is for accelerating.. the brakes or for decellerating.
Brakes are MUCH cheaper than the various items that are being stressed in your drivetrain. Brakes are a 'wear' item and designed to be replaced easily and cheaply.. Engine, drivetrain, transmission, etc are not designed to be replaced).
FURTHER, downshifting and allowing the engine to break upsets the natural balance of the car.. and will significantly decrease your lap times. If you would like to expand this point... engine braking is basically a fixed load... while braking can be applied smoothly... and the force can be controlled. We ALL know that Smooth = FAST.
But I am sure that your local repair shop (or Mitsubishi service) will be very happy to 'fix' your engine, drivetrain sooner than normal.
Last edited by EVO Enthusiast; Jul 6, 2004 at 01:57 PM.
#19
1. It is illegal in this state, and many others, to coast in neutral. I don't know how they will enforce it, but it's in the books.
2. Using engine braking exclusively is not a good idea. Your brakes are there. Use them. Using engine braking exclusively puts a lot of stress on your drivetrain.
3. Failing #2, engine braking is an effective way to supplement your braking power, especially when your brakes are fried, or otherwise experience catastrophic failure.
4. Being in gear is how you achieve the natural balance of the car. You need to adjust the throttle to set the weight either on the rear or the front. How can you apply throttle if you're not in gear?
5. In performance driving, you're taught to never coast. #4 is precisely the reason why. You need the throttle to control the weight transfer of the car. It's also a good idea because you may need to accelerate quickly to avoid an obstacle.
6. If you downshift with the proper revmatching technique, heel-toe or otherwise, or just ease the clutch out slowly, it won't upset the chassis that much.
7. The only time you would want to coast through a corner with the clutch disengaged is when you're trying to scrub off speed and don't want to stall the engine. Or you're trying to pop the clutch out and upset traction on purpose.
#7 is why you should engage the clutch before entering a turn. Shifting or clutch play in a corner is asking for problems.
2. Using engine braking exclusively is not a good idea. Your brakes are there. Use them. Using engine braking exclusively puts a lot of stress on your drivetrain.
3. Failing #2, engine braking is an effective way to supplement your braking power, especially when your brakes are fried, or otherwise experience catastrophic failure.
4. Being in gear is how you achieve the natural balance of the car. You need to adjust the throttle to set the weight either on the rear or the front. How can you apply throttle if you're not in gear?
5. In performance driving, you're taught to never coast. #4 is precisely the reason why. You need the throttle to control the weight transfer of the car. It's also a good idea because you may need to accelerate quickly to avoid an obstacle.
6. If you downshift with the proper revmatching technique, heel-toe or otherwise, or just ease the clutch out slowly, it won't upset the chassis that much.
7. The only time you would want to coast through a corner with the clutch disengaged is when you're trying to scrub off speed and don't want to stall the engine. Or you're trying to pop the clutch out and upset traction on purpose.
#7 is why you should engage the clutch before entering a turn. Shifting or clutch play in a corner is asking for problems.
#20
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
I've always downshifted and used the engine braking along with the regular brakes. I'd like to be in gear in case I have to accelerate quickly.
As far as wear goes, I routinely get over 100k miles out of a clutch. The last time I had the head off my Talon, it had 230k miles on it, and you could still see faint crosshatching in the cylinders. Where's the excess wear?
As far as wear goes, I routinely get over 100k miles out of a clutch. The last time I had the head off my Talon, it had 230k miles on it, and you could still see faint crosshatching in the cylinders. Where's the excess wear?
#21
Being in gear while decellerating is FINE... but using the driveline and compression of the engine is NOT recommended.
We could talk for hours about WHY you don't compression brake and back it up with theory and professional conclusions... but I will simplify it for you:
Engine to accelerate.
Brakes to decelerate.
Any questions?
We could talk for hours about WHY you don't compression brake and back it up with theory and professional conclusions... but I will simplify it for you:
Engine to accelerate.
Brakes to decelerate.
Any questions?
#23
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by EVO Enthusiast
We could talk for hours about WHY you don't compression brake and back it up with theory and professional conclusions.
#24
Originally Posted by EVO Enthusiast
Being in gear while decellerating is FINE... but using the driveline and compression of the engine is NOT recommended.
We could talk for hours about WHY you don't compression brake and back it up with theory and professional conclusions... but I will simplify it for you:
Engine to accelerate.
Brakes to decelerate.
Any questions?
We could talk for hours about WHY you don't compression brake and back it up with theory and professional conclusions... but I will simplify it for you:
Engine to accelerate.
Brakes to decelerate.
Any questions?
But failing that, if the brakes fail, then use the engine to supplement the emergency brake.
Plus downshifting is meant to put the engine in the appropriate spot in the powerband, not to help with braking.
#25
1. There is no reason why you can not brake in neutral without the clutch because when in neutral, there is no drive from the transmission to the driveshafts.
2. About Rev-matching/heel toe/double clutching, there are actually 3 ways in shifting gears with minium or the least wearing to the clutch if done correctly.
No. 1: The Old school way where you slide the gear stick into neutral and with the clutch engaged you rev up the engine to match the road speed then you select your gear. This is fine but in racing application is too slow. This was famously used in the days before syncros.
No. 2: Since syncros were invented, racing drivers brake+clutch disengage+ downgear+rev-match+clutch engage+continually drive all this quickly done spontanously. It's a faster method.
No. 3: Down gearing without the clutch at all. I will not go into this but it's the correct way to fully understand how rev-matching the engine and road speed and also a great understanding of how a gearbox+clutch operates.
But all in all, the answer to the topic is YES.
2. About Rev-matching/heel toe/double clutching, there are actually 3 ways in shifting gears with minium or the least wearing to the clutch if done correctly.
No. 1: The Old school way where you slide the gear stick into neutral and with the clutch engaged you rev up the engine to match the road speed then you select your gear. This is fine but in racing application is too slow. This was famously used in the days before syncros.
No. 2: Since syncros were invented, racing drivers brake+clutch disengage+ downgear+rev-match+clutch engage+continually drive all this quickly done spontanously. It's a faster method.
No. 3: Down gearing without the clutch at all. I will not go into this but it's the correct way to fully understand how rev-matching the engine and road speed and also a great understanding of how a gearbox+clutch operates.
But all in all, the answer to the topic is YES.
#26
If ur going downhill, and u lose ur brakes for some reason or another...then use the engine...you'l DEFINITLY feel the effect..but for day to day driving...i dun really think there's a prob with just coastin up to a traffic light in gear and then downshift...
#27
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by def z
I've heard that engine breaking, while sounding great in theory, actually puts a lot of wear on the engine, as well as wear on your clutch because you need to downshift. Cheaper to replace brake pads than trannys and clutches, eh?
#28
Account Disabled
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by BaLListic_EVO
people claim this wear but i see old 5spd cars all the time on stock engine and transmissions over 200k that have been slowed like this... infact i was taught of this being proper method downshifting using gears and brakes to slow.. The big ticket to reduce drivetrain and clutch wear though is rev matching......
#29
Evolving Member
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by BaLListic_EVO
people claim this wear but i see old 5spd cars all the time on stock engine and transmissions over 200k that have been slowed like this... infact i was taught of this being proper method downshifting using gears and brakes to slow.. The big ticket to reduce drivetrain and clutch wear though is rev matching......
do you mean rev matchin is bad for the drivetrain and wears out the cluth?
Cuz that how i downshift all the time....clutch in, neutral , gas, release cluth in lower gear....is there another way to downshift that i dunnoe about?
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