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36 counts of knock as soon as gas is touched and randomly...

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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 05:49 AM
  #46  
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From: sc
Originally Posted by Ultimate CC
I also noticed my fuel trim mid and high are different they they normally were...
my FuelTrim_High changes session to session.

You said you loaded stock Ign and Fuel maps and still the same?

Did you pick up SES faults?
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 05:56 AM
  #47  
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Initially no SES faults but I am going to check today again to see if any codes have been thrown...
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 10:20 AM
  #48  
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have you actually heard any knock?

i would load up a cal file you have the most confidence in, then discconnect the knock sensor, as long as it doesnt send a high signal when disconnected & go for a cruise.

I AM NOT SUGGESTING A 5TH GEAR PULL @ WOT FROM 3K-9K

just go for a drive, roll on the gas as you normally would, if you hear knock, then lift off the gas.

I would hear knock occassionally when my car was stock, when i did, i lifted....91 octane/california gas.

if you hear knock, then look elsewhere....pressure differential sensor is weird or for whatever reason, your ecu is referencing/receiving a wrong load signal & is applying more timing for a given load, then what your engine is actually seeing....

if no knock, investigate on why your ecu is seeing/interpeting a knocking signal.

you need to bracket / isolate your problem.
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 10:28 AM
  #49  
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One thing to keep in mind, the knock sum does not show any knock throughout much of the logs. Even though no knock counts are shown, timing, fuel, loads, etc. are still constantly changing erroneously. I don't think the knock is the issue. The issue in common is the ECU and ALL of its readings. I would read the ECU to a new file, then either compare it to what you loaded, or test write the correct *.hex file (just to make sure it will write correctly), then truly load the correct file to the ECU. Then after getting a good write to the ECU, re-log it. If it still shows the same responses, then I would strongly look at the ECU. That's the only thing in common to ALL of the readings. The Knock is only one of the errors being reported.
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 10:35 AM
  #50  
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From: sc
Yeah,

Also check the knock filter maps
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 11:20 AM
  #51  
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Have you tried unplugging the knock sensor and seeing if the number still shows up? If it does, then it may be some damage to the wiring.. If it doesnt then its either the sensor or something making a racket.. disconnecting the sensor will result in a CEL, but at least you can see whats going on.
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 11:21 AM
  #52  
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BTW, have you tried removing the UTEC and running just off the ECU just in case something is "wacky" with the UTEC?
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 11:29 AM
  #53  
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aright ill try that in a few and go from there...
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 12:23 PM
  #54  
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Check ground wires while your at it. Just an idea.
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 12:38 PM
  #55  
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I had a similar issue in my Galant vr-4, where knock would read 44 counts almost all the time. it turned out to be a bad knock sensor.
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 04:50 PM
  #56  
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^ saw post 26 ^
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 04:52 PM
  #57  
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From: Peekskill NY
Originally Posted by MalibuJack
BTW, have you tried removing the UTEC and running just off the ECU just in case something is "wacky" with the UTEC?
removed UTEC, still doing the same thing, i am starting to think it has to be the knock sensor some how...
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 08:30 PM
  #58  
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From: sc
With the ECU knock control out of the equation, didn't you say your car was also running a little sluggish on pure UTEC, except for the timing retard?

If so, then what could have happened when the tranny was removed?

Did you perform any other maintenance while tranny was out, i.e, timing belt?

Man, what is it?
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 08:31 PM
  #59  
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Yea it was sluggish on the UTEC but only when the UTEC wasn't in full control, ie the transition...the only thing i did was the tranny and tcase...didn't even change the oil...
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 09:59 PM
  #60  
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I would check to see if the big *** ground on the upper tranny bolt (on the radiator side of the engine compartment) is attached. You could have missed the ringlet when bolting everything back together. Bad grounds could cause erroneous readings.


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