36 counts of knock as soon as gas is touched and randomly...
#46
#48
have you actually heard any knock?
i would load up a cal file you have the most confidence in, then discconnect the knock sensor, as long as it doesnt send a high signal when disconnected & go for a cruise.
I AM NOT SUGGESTING A 5TH GEAR PULL @ WOT FROM 3K-9K
just go for a drive, roll on the gas as you normally would, if you hear knock, then lift off the gas.
I would hear knock occassionally when my car was stock, when i did, i lifted....91 octane/california gas.
if you hear knock, then look elsewhere....pressure differential sensor is weird or for whatever reason, your ecu is referencing/receiving a wrong load signal & is applying more timing for a given load, then what your engine is actually seeing....
if no knock, investigate on why your ecu is seeing/interpeting a knocking signal.
you need to bracket / isolate your problem.
i would load up a cal file you have the most confidence in, then discconnect the knock sensor, as long as it doesnt send a high signal when disconnected & go for a cruise.
I AM NOT SUGGESTING A 5TH GEAR PULL @ WOT FROM 3K-9K
just go for a drive, roll on the gas as you normally would, if you hear knock, then lift off the gas.
I would hear knock occassionally when my car was stock, when i did, i lifted....91 octane/california gas.
if you hear knock, then look elsewhere....pressure differential sensor is weird or for whatever reason, your ecu is referencing/receiving a wrong load signal & is applying more timing for a given load, then what your engine is actually seeing....
if no knock, investigate on why your ecu is seeing/interpeting a knocking signal.
you need to bracket / isolate your problem.
#49
One thing to keep in mind, the knock sum does not show any knock throughout much of the logs. Even though no knock counts are shown, timing, fuel, loads, etc. are still constantly changing erroneously. I don't think the knock is the issue. The issue in common is the ECU and ALL of its readings. I would read the ECU to a new file, then either compare it to what you loaded, or test write the correct *.hex file (just to make sure it will write correctly), then truly load the correct file to the ECU. Then after getting a good write to the ECU, re-log it. If it still shows the same responses, then I would strongly look at the ECU. That's the only thing in common to ALL of the readings. The Knock is only one of the errors being reported.
#51
Have you tried unplugging the knock sensor and seeing if the number still shows up? If it does, then it may be some damage to the wiring.. If it doesnt then its either the sensor or something making a racket.. disconnecting the sensor will result in a CEL, but at least you can see whats going on.
#58
With the ECU knock control out of the equation, didn't you say your car was also running a little sluggish on pure UTEC, except for the timing retard?
If so, then what could have happened when the tranny was removed?
Did you perform any other maintenance while tranny was out, i.e, timing belt?
Man, what is it?
If so, then what could have happened when the tranny was removed?
Did you perform any other maintenance while tranny was out, i.e, timing belt?
Man, what is it?
#60
I would check to see if the big *** ground on the upper tranny bolt (on the radiator side of the engine compartment) is attached. You could have missed the ringlet when bolting everything back together. Bad grounds could cause erroneous readings.