A custom one. Seriously though the only one that won't heat soak very much will be a custom made one.

The AEM intake works well for the street but needs more shielding for the track.

I would recommend buying a cheap cone intake, like the vibrant filter and MAF adapter (about $45 together) , then building a good heat shield between the MAF and the rest of the engine bay. Don't box the filter in as that will drop the Baro again. Just shield the intake from the motor and espically the radiator.

Depending on your UICP setup you can basically make a divider that almost centerlines on the frame rail.

If you want a already produced solution, the HKS kansai box works pretty well (without the crap HKS filter), it drops the baro a tad because its almost a complete box but it's better than the stock box for sure. It also incorporates it's own snorkel like stock but much bigger. We used this on our Redline Time Attack 2nd place street Evo. Worked really well. Bit pricey though.

 

Yep, the table definitions for TBEC, BCLO, and BDEL can be deleted from the ECUFlash XML file. Or you could just ignore them.

 

ok, can someone look at my logs...error correction is not making sense. I'm getting strange adjustments. Just need clarification on what the ecu is doing.

 

Thanks so much to everyone that helped me get this up and goin! Especialy You MrFred!! Here is a rough first log. I am guessing I want "boost error" to be as close to 0 as it can be? When it says 9.5psi boost error, that means i need to increase or decrease wgdc? you can see some spots at 10psi... more work for me. Thanks again!!

 

9.5 boost error means it's 9.5 over target boost. So it is using whatever correction is in the 9.5 area of the error correction table, most likely taking WGDC out.

 

Makes sense to me.

at 5000 rpm your logging 254 load.

However your BDEL + Offset = 279, error correction is showing -20, well because you are -20 off your target load, so correction is adding 0.2%, which is in your -20 setting of your error correction table.

You need to rework your target load settings.

 

Hey razorlab, have you seen either of these intakes in action either on the dyno or on the track?:

http://www.norcalevo.net/forum/index...c,18378.0.html

There are two variants of the same setup in this thread.

Also do you have any experience with the Apexi Induction Box?

 

Yup I tuned both those evos.

They seemed to work pretty good. The first one never sees the track, just street. The second one autox's. I haven't logged it at an autox though.

The Apexi box works ok, the adapter and filter messes with the MAF, just FYI. The box itself works well but it's basically just two pieces of sheetmetal you could make yourself on a sunday.

 

do you have any pics of your optimal intake box?

 

+2 please


btw now with psi based boost, i keep full boost till redline it seems

 

PSI-target boost won't magically make the turbo hold any more boost then load-target. Sounds like you had the load-based boost control not tuned correctly.

Outcome will be the same on both methods, just PSI-target is easier to tune and is more consistant in different weather and altitudes.

btw, can you post a current boost plot? I would love to see the boost curve on the Red with a stock airbox.

 

Well, I was not able to log actual boost before, load is still falling off some (due to baro?) but boost is almost flat line. keep in mine i need more fine tuning, this is 2nd pull since i added psi controlled boost. Other than the one spike at 28, its high 26's almost flat. ( goal was 26.5 psi)



Airbox in its current state (in all the above logs in this thread, did this when added Red):










so the Side and back are opened up. next mod when time allows will be for me to build my own fiberglass air box with multiple cold air inlets. What filter do you suggest for inside that enclosure?

 

Would the GST filter work with this setup?

 

I also want to make some sort of enclosure for my air filter setup to try and minimize the variances I get in air intake temps when I do multiple pulls in a row. I wish I wasn't using my stock ICS tank for my aky kit or I'd have plenty of room for duct work Its tight as a **** in that area.

 

What is the choke point on factory air box? is it the surface area of the filter panel? or is it the "scoop" curved intake. thinking of building slightly bigger "box area drop the cone inside there, I just need to know what to plan for. Do I need more than the factory "scoop"? Would that plus one 3"id hose plumbed into the outboard side be enough air volume?