TouringBubble

iTrader: (2)

I tried to add the definition to EvoScan and it gave me the "out of date" error and wouldn't let me log at all ... I tried to use request03 that I'm currently using for my 2-byte airflow. Maybe having both definitions in the XML caused the error? I know I can't log them both at once ...

TouringBubble

iTrader: (2)

The other car in question uses a Greddy Profec B for boost control and I'm using the stock solenoid.

tephra

iTrader: (6)

i use MUT40-4F for some custom stuff...

Just set MUT40 to 6A35 (v15 ROM)

and use this XML
<DataListItem DataLog="Y" Color="" Display="Clutch Test" LogReference="ClutchTest" RequestID="40" Eval="x" Unit="units" MetricEval="" MetricUnit="" ResponseBytes="1" GaugeMin="0" GaugeMax="255" ChartMin="0" ChartMax="255" ScalingFactor="1" Notes=""/>

TouringBubble

iTrader: (2)

Alright, I adjusted the top clutch switch tonight and it seems to have helped the problem tremendously.

I adjusted the switch closer to the pedal by 3 or 4 turns ... just enough for the switch base to push on the pedal just slightly with the clutch fully disengaged. The allows the switch to open at a lower pedal position (Yes, the top switch is closed at the clutch's top position) and keeps the NLTS from engaging on a normal shift.

I tried to replicate the issue many times after the adjustment and could not get it to happen. I experienced some minor RPM fluctuation at a low RPM shift to WOT, but it was no where near what I experienced before the switch adjustment.

So, apparently, the instant load transfer to the motor from the NLTS engaging was causing the motor to torque abruptly and that caused the RPM fluctuation. I guess the stock mounts really do suck that bad ...

Thanks everyone for the help and hopefully the info here can help others.

tephra

iTrader: (6)

good info - i was thinking of sourcing a "spring" and glue that to the end of the clutch switch - this will stop those accidental NLTS engagements when just resting on the clutch for the next shift..

guess I will look at this on the W/E

C6C6CH3vo

iTrader: (9)

The clutch pedal spring is very lazy at the (edit)disengaged position. This was even worse when I fitted a new excedy S1 clutch after adjusting the pedal properly. The force of the top switch was enough to overcome the clutch spring when adjusted. For this reason I fitted a huge spring on the pedal itself to keep the pedal fully engaged when foot is off it.

I don't have this mod yet (it would require abnormal amount of work to have the patch custom made in my setup) but I have plenty of experience being upside down with feet in the air adjusting the switches and pedal height

TouringBubble

iTrader: (2)

On my car, the switch itself had enough thread for a bit of adjustment. I'd guess it could be moved at least 3/4". I only needed it to move about 3/16" to solve my specific issue. At this position, you've got about 3/8" (the length of the button itself) of pedal travel before the switch is disengaged.

Technically, this is as much play as you can add with switch adjustment since the switch base is now resting on the pedal. To add more play to the switch, you would have to add some sort of a spring (as Tephra said) that would engage the switch earlier but still allow the pedal to return to it's position.

I would suggest that anyone using the NLTS mod double check this switch and adjust it as I've mentioned. Not only will it prevent the issue described here, it will technically speed up your NLS since the injectors will cut later and come back earlier. I tried some NLSs last night and the timing felt much better after the switch adjustment.

C6C6CH3vo

iTrader: (9)

If there is a switch that does the opposite (closed circuit when pressed in) then you could just mount it at the interlock switch location (disgard the interlock switch). That way the system will only activate/deactivate near the floor.

Anyway, I think a problem some people are seeing is there is very little spring tension with pedal up and the weight of the pedal pushes the switch in enough to open the circuit

TouringBubble

iTrader: (2)

With less than 14k on the car, I can't really comment on that issue. The spring tension on my pedal seems adequate. I can understand how an older vehicle might see issues from decreased spring tension. But, from what I saw last night, you could simply replace the pedal spring and adjust the switch as I did and have the same results.

Mojo Rising

iTrader: (4)

I have had something similar to this during "normal shifting". What happens is: When you are letting up on the clutch to get into next gear, you are hitting tps threshold before the upper clutch is engaged. this causes the car to buck hard initially. This then causes your foot to come up enough to engage the upper switch which then allows full IPW again, which then causes your foot to go down again and disengage the upper switch. This will repeat itself with less affect each time, hence the slowly tapering oscillations.

Just think of barely engaging and disengaging the upper switch multiple times in a row. That is what I believe you are doing.

tephra

iTrader: (6)

apart from my NLTS what is the upper switch for?

staatz

iTrader: (12)

Eh, I dont mean to hi-jack, but I'm having a problem sort of like that. I installed the nlts and the value for tps is at 70, speed is set to 30. I jsut tried driving the car normally and if I'm above the speed and at 70% I dont have to touch the clutch and the car seems to cut fuel and just fall flat on its face until i ease up ont he throttle.

My question is, do you think it could be that my clutch pedal is adjusted lower?

I oringally tried setting the tps to 20 and 0 speed and when i tried just reving it in neutral it just fell on its face and pretty much stalled unless i let go of the gas.

nothere

iTrader: (23)

its difficult to drive with enthusiasm with the tps threshold less than about 90.

iow it takes more concentration than I can maintain



I don't know if raising it will help with your problem, but I think you will be happier driving with it raised.

I sure would check on the pedal switch

l2r99gst

iTrader: (2)

Well, I think you answered your own question there. Sounds like your clutch switch is the issue.


Eric

EVIL MR

iTrader: (5)

any pictures of how to adjust clutch switch?? PLEASE cause it was working fine for me and it no long does. If I to nlts ( gas to the floor and push in the clutch the rpm will go to 10.000 yes 10.000 I was told to check the clutch switch but I don't know how?