Let's see your fully tuned timing maps
#1758
Evolved Member
I made some changes to your timing map. Use that as a base. Do some logs driving the car like you usually would if you were doing a drag run going through the gears 1-2-3-4. Make your changes based on that.
Last edited by nightwalker; Aug 26, 2012 at 09:40 AM.
#1759
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
This is the closest bestest I feel Ive done so far. 22 psi peak about 20 out the top.
Going to reload my WGA a little bit to 20 instead of 14 for my FP 18psi wga, and give ecu boost a little better shot at holding boost up top. right now 100wgdc gives me 23 up top, and Im looking to hold 25 or better with a lightly convex boost curve with about 28 midrange. The Skunk 2 STM ported mani and GSC s2 cams need a little wind to make them operate fully I believe.
#1763
Evolved Member
Looks like you're still just doing a third gear pull from low rpm to high?
If so, try datalogging it starting in first from a stop and running it through 1,2, and 3. Then use that to tune. I think you'll find it will wake your car up.
Big cam/turbo cars are hard to dial in with just a 3rd gear pull because of how different it works it's way through the map vs real world driving.
If so, try datalogging it starting in first from a stop and running it through 1,2, and 3. Then use that to tune. I think you'll find it will wake your car up.
Big cam/turbo cars are hard to dial in with just a 3rd gear pull because of how different it works it's way through the map vs real world driving.
#1764
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
that log is just what I would use to VD my car. I always tune third gear, then do a 1-2-3-4. then a 4 or 5 from low RPM like I was highway driving and really loading the motor. This is why I want to accomplish this per gear boost control so 5th doesnt spike so bad and 1-3 can rape.
that link was a really good read and I book marked it on my iphone.
that link was a really good read and I book marked it on my iphone.
#1765
Evolving Member
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So just looking, you reduced 1-2* degrees from 3k-4.5k
and increase 1* in 6K and above. Give or take. Ok Newb questions why was it necessary to first reduce timing in torque area to increase on high end? Or was it necessary?
I loaded timing map and reran:
78 degree @ around 80% humidity
had a few counts of knock around 3.5k to 4.5k. So question is should I continue to push timing in 6K + area and what about 3-5k range?
#1766
Evolved Member
Are you using Dynojet correction?
You don't want to run the engine too hard in the spool area. It will cause the high rpm area to suffer.
Use 2 or 3 degrees in your peak load point logging real life acceleration, not just a 3rd gear pull, then add timing from that point through the map trace gradually until redline. After changes, log your 3rd gear pull, and see if it benefited. Rinse and repeat.
You don't want to run the engine too hard in the spool area. It will cause the high rpm area to suffer.
Use 2 or 3 degrees in your peak load point logging real life acceleration, not just a 3rd gear pull, then add timing from that point through the map trace gradually until redline. After changes, log your 3rd gear pull, and see if it benefited. Rinse and repeat.
#1767
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
nightalker have you any VD standalone runs for your timing map? Curious to see your torque curve!
Also, Ive been relatively knock free for a few days, and since I got here Ive been able to add timing in areas that you guys are suggesting. Up until then I was just pulling and pulling timing like crazy along with my hair. Ive got more sweeping to do.. but this is pretty drastic just to the point where I was on the last page of this thread, or even the top of this page!!!
Also, Ive been relatively knock free for a few days, and since I got here Ive been able to add timing in areas that you guys are suggesting. Up until then I was just pulling and pulling timing like crazy along with my hair. Ive got more sweeping to do.. but this is pretty drastic just to the point where I was on the last page of this thread, or even the top of this page!!!
Last edited by 211Ratsbud; Aug 27, 2012 at 07:18 PM.
#1768
Evolved Member
This is 29 psi on a IX turbo on 91 octane. Megan manifold, AEM intake, E-bay no name radiator, OBX intercooler, Hallman MBC, Megan O2 housing, Apex Noir axle back with full 3" piping and test pipe, PTE 880cc injectors, Helix 272 cams. That's it. Almost all bolt on's minus intake manifold and throttle body.
Mustang dyno simulator. It's around 385-390hp on Dynojet.
edit: 0 knock tune. I get 1 or 2 errant knock count here and there, but nothing consistent. I have my knock light to slowly flash at 4 counts, and I never see it. Even throughout scorching California summer. The key is tuning how you drive.
Mustang dyno simulator. It's around 385-390hp on Dynojet.
edit: 0 knock tune. I get 1 or 2 errant knock count here and there, but nothing consistent. I have my knock light to slowly flash at 4 counts, and I never see it. Even throughout scorching California summer. The key is tuning how you drive.
Last edited by nightwalker; Aug 27, 2012 at 09:10 PM.
#1770
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
This is 29 psi on a IX turbo on 91 octane. Megan manifold, AEM intake, E-bay no name radiator, OBX intercooler, Hallman MBC, Megan O2 housing, Apex Noir axle back with full 3" piping and test pipe, PTE 880cc injectors, Helix 272 cams. That's it. Almost all bolt on's minus intake manifold and throttle body.
Mustang dyno simulator. It's around 385-390hp on Dynojet.
edit: 0 knock tune. I get 1 or 2 errant knock count here and there, but nothing consistent. I have my knock light to slowly flash at 4 counts, and I never see it. Even throughout scorching California summer. The key is tuning how you drive.
Mustang dyno simulator. It's around 385-390hp on Dynojet.
edit: 0 knock tune. I get 1 or 2 errant knock count here and there, but nothing consistent. I have my knock light to slowly flash at 4 counts, and I never see it. Even throughout scorching California summer. The key is tuning how you drive.