Raptord

iTrader: (10)

100 to peak load.

djchopps0013

iTrader: (3)

This was ROM that matched log. I there was some smoothing and a few adjustments in the one I posted in this thread.

nightwalker

I made some changes to your timing map. Use that as a base. Do some logs driving the car like you usually would if you were doing a drag run going through the gears 1-2-3-4. Make your changes based on that.

211Ratsbud

iTrader: (1)

This is the closest bestest I feel Ive done so far. 22 psi peak about 20 out the top.

Going to reload my WGA a little bit to 20 instead of 14 for my FP 18psi wga, and give ecu boost a little better shot at holding boost up top. right now 100wgdc gives me 23 up top, and Im looking to hold 25 or better with a lightly convex boost curve with about 28 midrange. The Skunk 2 STM ported mani and GSC s2 cams need a little wind to make them operate fully I believe.

Toxin

iTrader: (2)

From what your maptrace shows, you're actually hitting negative timing cells during a normal pull? You're robbing yourself of quite a bit of torque and causing some seriously high EGT's...

211Ratsbud

iTrader: (1)

How much damage from EGTs can a few single pulls do? once im driving im never below the 4000 mark when beating it.

i will look into adding some low end timng though.

211Ratsbud

iTrader: (1)

Im gonna try this, adds some mid range timing.

Some of that knocking that I pulled timing for might have been my damned bov leaking. fixed that so i can probably get away with adding some back in.

nightwalker

Looks like you're still just doing a third gear pull from low rpm to high?

If so, try datalogging it starting in first from a stop and running it through 1,2, and 3. Then use that to tune. I think you'll find it will wake your car up.

Big cam/turbo cars are hard to dial in with just a 3rd gear pull because of how different it works it's way through the map vs real world driving.

211Ratsbud

iTrader: (1)

that log is just what I would use to VD my car. I always tune third gear, then do a 1-2-3-4. then a 4 or 5 from low RPM like I was highway driving and really loading the motor. This is why I want to accomplish this per gear boost control so 5th doesnt spike so bad and 1-3 can rape.

that link was a really good read and I book marked it on my iphone.

djchopps0013

iTrader: (3)

First off thanks Nightwalker for pointing me in the right direction.

So just looking, you reduced 1-2* degrees from 3k-4.5k
and increase 1* in 6K and above. Give or take. Ok Newb questions why was it necessary to first reduce timing in torque area to increase on high end? Or was it necessary?

I loaded timing map and reran:
78 degree @ around 80% humidity



had a few counts of knock around 3.5k to 4.5k. So question is should I continue to push timing in 6K + area and what about 3-5k range?

nightwalker

Are you using Dynojet correction?

You don't want to run the engine too hard in the spool area. It will cause the high rpm area to suffer.

Use 2 or 3 degrees in your peak load point logging real life acceleration, not just a 3rd gear pull, then add timing from that point through the map trace gradually until redline. After changes, log your 3rd gear pull, and see if it benefited. Rinse and repeat.

211Ratsbud

iTrader: (1)

nightalker have you any VD standalone runs for your timing map? Curious to see your torque curve!

Also, Ive been relatively knock free for a few days, and since I got here Ive been able to add timing in areas that you guys are suggesting. Up until then I was just pulling and pulling timing like crazy along with my hair. Ive got more sweeping to do.. but this is pretty drastic just to the point where I was on the last page of this thread, or even the top of this page!!!

nightwalker

This is 29 psi on a IX turbo on 91 octane. Megan manifold, AEM intake, E-bay no name radiator, OBX intercooler, Hallman MBC, Megan O2 housing, Apex Noir axle back with full 3" piping and test pipe, PTE 880cc injectors, Helix 272 cams. That's it. Almost all bolt on's minus intake manifold and throttle body.

Mustang dyno simulator. It's around 385-390hp on Dynojet.

edit: 0 knock tune. I get 1 or 2 errant knock count here and there, but nothing consistent. I have my knock light to slowly flash at 4 counts, and I never see it. Even throughout scorching California summer. The key is tuning how you drive.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

anyone have any direct comparisons of load readings on the same tune on the road vs the track? i think im totally misunderstanding something.

fireroasted

iTrader: (3)

Interesting setup. The plan of my build was similar to this when I started last year, and I wanted to turn up to 28psi with 9mr turbo IM and TB. When I did I induced knock slightly, and then posted and folks pretty much all canned me for trying to run that high boost on 91oct. I turned back down to 25 max psi. Could you post your timing and AFR map just for reference (and if you have LS on, modified, or stock). And if you are still using closed up.