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Old May 19, 2013, 02:44 AM
  #2266  
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The on off transition on the highway is very clean with this much timing. That's all I can tell

I make no claim to increased mileage, efficiency. My only experience is increased smoothness when coasting on the freeway and transitioning back to give throttle. I have S2 cams, so maybe that plays a role. my timing doesnt hit 44 until 3300, which the timing is smoothed nicely into there. at 3100 roughly 71-72 mph i hit 42. the ramp from idle 10-50 load up to cruise RPM is nice and gentle. its not the steep drop that Im used to seeing.

I still have the parking lot lurch that i cannot tell if its the cams, timing or mivec. its annoying and im still looking for this..

anyone know what the parking lot lurch is normally caused by? It seems like the motor is oscillating speed due to low vacuum

Last edited by 211Ratsbud; May 19, 2013 at 06:03 AM.
Old May 19, 2013, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MercenaryX2
That's about it but that is alot of timing. I wouldn't run that high unless my pistons, comb. chamber and exhaust valves were ceramic coated. Too much heat going on right there...
44* at cruise is just fine on a completely stock motor or built motor
Old May 19, 2013, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 211ratsbud
The on off transition on the highway is very clean with this much timing. That's all I can tell

I make no claim to increased mileage, efficiency. My only experience is increased smoothness when coasting on the freeway and transitioning back to give throttle. I have S2 cams, so maybe that plays a role. my timing doesnt hit 44 until 3300, which the timing is smoothed nicely into there. at 3100 roughly 71-72 mph i hit 42. the ramp from idle 10-50 load up to cruise RPM is nice and gentle. its not the steep drop that Im used to seeing.

I still have the parking lot lurch that i cannot tell if its the cams, timing or mivec. its annoying and im still looking for this..

anyone know what the parking lot lurch is normally caused by? It seems like the motor is oscillating speed due to low vacuum
Rats, I have found that you can easily and quickly improve the parking lot lurching with reducing the MIVEC advance. You will find that advance, which theoretically gives you more rapid spool and throttle response also creates some light switch behavior and low load and rpm. This induces some bucking like behavior. A quick test is to go to your parking lot and do a bunch of maneuvers and repeat with a stock MIVEC map. These tests were pretty dramatic for me. (On 272s). I think my test is somewhere in the MIVEC thread.

About the map color comments:
By the way many males, about 10%, are green brown colorblind to various stages. I found out because I complained to my eye doctor years ago that I couldn't read some articles in sport compact car, but I brought the magazine. Anything with green or brown in the background.

Rats, your the best, but I am with Domyz, your colors were impossible. I just saw a dark green screen of nothing.

Last edited by fireroasted; May 19, 2013 at 11:09 PM.
Old May 19, 2013, 10:12 PM
  #2269  
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Originally Posted by killerpenguin21
heres my latest and greatest.

did 1000 miles on this map over the last two days to/from a track day. car was great, smoother on tephra than the stock rom, and with my track box of tools in my dads car on the way down did 26mpg at 75ish mph. i liked it.

but then i had some part throttle knocking on track. i need to work on that i think, but i also found out the gas station i filled up at only had 92 not 93 (in NJ you cant pump your own gas)
Old May 21, 2013, 08:11 PM
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Part throttle mid-high rpms? looks like you have 20ish degrees up there, I'd drop that down some, always worked for me
Old May 22, 2013, 08:46 AM
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I do get the same thing at aggressive part throttle applications.

When should timing be ramping up at mid load ranges? We ramp up at peak load wot, so wouldn't you assume to ramp timing theoretically earlier in the rpm range for lower columns?
Old May 22, 2013, 09:41 AM
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Yea, I just relooked at it and realized I must have been crosseyed last nite, it's not as high as I thought. I would guess the 160-180 transition could be a little smoother, if anything drop the higher one down a little bit. This may be the wrong train of though, but I figure you really don't spend much time in those area's so no need to have them crazy perfect like the WOT stuff. I just dumb it down until it stops transition knocking and then go on...I think I posted a pic of my RR map here before, it was likely on the 2.0/bbkfull setup. Here soon I 'll be trying out my 2.4/red setup, hopefully it works ok, I haven't had much time to torture test it yet.
Old May 23, 2013, 06:39 PM
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so this is my current get up and go map.





peaks 300 load @ 3600 and drops to about 265 by 7000.
Attached Thumbnails Let's see your fully tuned timing maps-current-map.jpg  

Last edited by 211Ratsbud; May 23, 2013 at 06:44 PM.
Old May 23, 2013, 09:16 PM
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Hi, i am new to ECU flash , a couple of questions if any one can guide me.

I have load limit till 260 in my hi octane fuel map, i am controlling boost with a manual boost controller. Is this load actually referring to boost ? if so 100 load = 1 bar boost approx or otherwise ?

Why we need to increase load cells to 280 or 300 ?


For pops and bangs one needs to retard timing as stated earlier in this thread. What if i dont want pops and bangs , i just want flames when i let off the throttle to shift gear what should be order ?

Thanks.
Old May 23, 2013, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ExViTermini
Part throttle mid-high rpms? looks like you have 20ish degrees up there, I'd drop that down some, always worked for me
its actually part throttle low-mid i think. biggest situation i noticed it was when cruising along in 5th gear and lightly accelerating to pass someone, say 5-10psi range. i need to try and catch it in a log, as it also may be due to my fuel map and not the timing.
Old May 23, 2013, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mines5
Hi, i am new to ECU flash , a couple of questions if any one can guide me.

I have load limit till 260 in my hi octane fuel map, i am controlling boost with a manual boost controller. Is this load actually referring to boost ? if so 100 load = 1 bar boost approx or otherwise ?

Why we need to increase load cells to 280 or 300 ?


For pops and bangs one needs to retard timing as stated earlier in this thread. What if i dont want pops and bangs , i just want flames when i let off the throttle to shift gear what should be order ?

Thanks.
100 load is roughly equal to the threshold between vacuum and boost.

Load is a function of air going past the MAF. So with a larger turbo and/or more boost you have more airflow, therefore higher load. That's why many need to increase the max load in the timing and fuel maps.
Old May 23, 2013, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by steven121
Heres mine I feel like it could better

Ok after reading everyones regarding vacumm and increase timing to 44* how would i tune vacumm for better mpg mine looks low compared to majority of
Peoples here
Old May 24, 2013, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by steven121
Ok after reading everyones regarding vacumm and increase timing to 44* how would i tune vacumm for better mpg mine looks low compared to majority of
Peoples here
More vacuum for the same rpm = better fuel economy.
Old May 24, 2013, 06:25 PM
  #2279  
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Originally Posted by Raptord
100 load is roughly equal to the threshold between vacuum and boost.

Load is a function of air going past the MAF. So with a larger turbo and/or more boost you have more airflow, therefore higher load. That's why many need to increase the max load in the timing and fuel maps.
If i change the turbo , how would i know the car needs more load cells ? Will it hit a boost cut because the required load cells/ load range wasnt defined in the map ?
Old May 24, 2013, 06:33 PM
  #2280  
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If your logged load exceed the load axis then it's time to rescale or not move as much air.


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