Raptord

iTrader: (10)

is the third column from the end AFR? If so you should definitely work on fuel some before coming back to timing.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

yes, dont worry im done for now, i just couldnt stand how choppy the timing was. I also have to get a new wideband sensor and then i can move on to fuel, it obviously needs a lot of work if those readings are 100% correct.

highlight of my day, upping the boost got rid of some knock LOL.

nothere

iTrader: (23)

piro,
an evo 8 is lucky to get around 3 degrees at 3500 rpm /260 load. I'm guessing you are using the knock retard feature to good effect..

What timing you show below 100 load is not going to break the bank.

I'd put 3 in where I said above and ramp everything up or down from there. Enable the knock light mod and see what happens.
When you go through the thread its important you look at evo 8 maps. An evo 9 plays a different song with a different instrument.

Raceghost

iTrader: (4)

Thank you Raptord, and by the way, we are running almost identical supporting mods... Im on 880's, but none the less. Just swapped over to the grimmspeed 3 port from another vendors 3 port as well.

This is true if both cars are identical with identical supporting mods. 9 can handle more timing than the eights if I remember right. with that said you can have an 8 with more supporting mods handle the same timing as a lesser 9...

Piro Fyre, your map is almost a stock map, that has been block tuned in boost. Completly start over! Also, take your cam gears and 0 them out. You stated your exhaust was advanced or retarded, center it up, 0 it out, and then work on the stock map. The timing map I finished in my post is from the starts of the very map you posted. That looks like a stock 94170015 or 94620011 timing map.

Killerpenguine21, read up on dialing your boost in, MFred has a great write up for stock solenoid ecu based as well as 3 port based. Sounds like your wastegate is off a little. 3 port bcs for the win. Should be a staple as to one of the first mods to do. ...and maybe its in the laundry list of mods at the bottom of your sig, but I didn't see it. Point is, I had my boost addr off for approx a year, and my guage would read high or low depending.

EDIT: Also Killer, your AFR's are about a point low. You want 12's during spool, and 11's during full boost. Dial in your wastegate and I think you will be impressed.

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

I started smoothing my timing and fuel maps out similar to the way you did yours, initial results are excellent, so thanks again for sharing!

Piro Fyre

iTrader: (23)

OK, just did a compression test and the results are:
120 - cyl 1 starting from cam side
120 - 2
130 - 3
130 - 4 ending at trans side

Motor was pretty warm when I did it. Had to let it sit for 10 min because it was hot but other then that, the valve cover was still burning me every time I touched it. I did each cylinder 2-3 times. I didn't do a wet test because it never flew past my mind. The ODO reads 136000 miles so I don't know if this is normal for high millage or not.

I'm on 94170008 and thanks for the help. I'll start doing things like cams back to 0 as soon as I can get a beater to drive around in. Was planning on rebuilding everything anyways during the winter.

Raceghost

iTrader: (4)

Yup, thats the first or second gen of the 94170015. You should trade up, and utilize the tephra v.5 94170015 rom. A lot more control and adjustments. And you can copy and paste current maps into the 0015 map depending on the table your adjusting. But timing, afr, and boost for sure. I started off the same way you did. As to rebuilding this winter, sounds good. Do you know what cams you are running? You should find out...

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

yeah like i said earlier, i havent touched fuel yet, only smoothed timing, none added.

i would love ecu boost not just for curve characteristics, but also the changed in weather, and safety. unfortunately i dont quite think i can handle the boost tuning myself yet

tscompusa2

iTrader: (22)

i could tune the boost for you for only $50 if you want to go that route and need someone else to tune the curve and setup the boost error correction tables properly. ecu boost is definitely the best route by all means.

tscompusa2

iTrader: (22)

that is pretty low, does the car have aftermarket cams? if not that engines probably got a lot of blowby.. you can keep running it until it gives you signs of giving up, its just gonna take more boost is all due to the lower compression.

id get a leakdown test done to confirm its the rings.

Ian0611

iTrader: (41)

Honestly bro, I think tuning the boost is the easiest part of tuning. Once you understand the tables and what they do it's pretty simple.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

Lol figures. Sometimes I just greatly underestimate myself. I'll have to go reread it a few more times.

Do we have a post your fully tuned boost tables thread?

Ian0611

iTrader: (41)

There are some examples in the ECU Controlled Boost Thread and also in Merlin's Tuning Guide. Basically you just need to zero out the correction tables and start with the WGDC maps around 50 and then go from there (If you like where you're boosting now then just zero out the correction tables and don't mess with WGDC). Decide what your target boost is and then add or subtract WGDC based whether you're over or under your target. There's a little more to it than that but that's the basics.

MercenaryX2

+1. I know the service limit is like 133 PSI on DSM's and you guys run higher compression so the limit is even higher. I'd do a leakdown test immediately like comp said.

Piro Fyre

iTrader: (23)

I'm just guessing that it is cammed from the way it idles. Will the cams give me such a low compression result?

Is there any how-tos on doing leakdown tests?