Hey All,

Not strictly related to EcuFlash, but all good tuners need a WB - so here it goes!

I am going to re-wire in my LC1 this weekend and need to find a good switched +12V source for power.

Now previously I was using the ciggy lighter, however this turns on with ACC and gets cut while cranking.

I need to find a +12V source that DOESN"T come on ACC, and DOESN"T get cut while cranking.

Any one found one?

Cheers
D.

 

i used the clock

 

Interesting, doesn't it turn off when cranking?

Don't forget i need to run heater wires as well - which draw a lot of current.

I remember someone was talking about tapping into the fuse box somehow?

 

If your running the new LC-1 beta firmware the delay to heater calibration is so short that you really don't need to worry about the 12v turning off whilst cranking. I use the radio supply and have never needed the W to operate in the first few seconds of running.

MB

 

I'm running the heater circuit off the cigarette lighter.

My eventual plan was to run a fused link straight from the battery (there's plenty of room on the positive terminal block for attaching a few miscellaneous ring terminals, at least on USDM models), or from the circuit to my inverter (if I ever get around to installing it, anyway).

Edit: Of course, I missed the useful detail, didn't I? I was planning on using a relay, but hadn't worked out where to pull the reference signal from, which is exactly what you're trying to figure out. Sorry.

 

How about using and add-a-circuit and getting power from the fuse box? Use the gauge fuse so you get power immediately when turning to the on position.

 

Ok gotcha I have the turboxs wideband

 

You could get a module/relay so when in Key 2 position the doors lock and also power on the LC1, that way when started it is powered up and when left in ACC the sensor does not heat up.

Just a thought...

 

Since I have a turbo timer I wanted the o2 sensor heater to remain on when key removed. I simply tapped into one of the wires in the steering column and on the timer harness that stayed hot when key removed. All accesories turn off with timer. It was a while ago so I dont remember wire color. I used voltmeter and looked at schematic from manual.

Good Luck Tephra

Cheers m8

 

Innovate recommends having the WB shut off during cranking as the heater draws significant power and the LC-1 is sensitive to voltage. Best source is an unused IG2 if you can find it. I think there is one in the fuse panel that can be hijacked with an "add-a-circuit", but I haven't taken the time to test the circuit yet. According to my notes its fuse #6 on a USDM Evo 9.

 

ive been running off teh radio in this and my last car. Cig lighter works well in my old VW's

 

hey MrFred, I cant find a reference to having the LC1 OFF when cranking in the manual? you got a link?

I think a lot of the problems with the LC1 are caused by the on/off/on nature of IGN... so I want to try and have a steady(ish) supply

 

Straight from the head dude at Innovate:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...ead.php?t=5507

BTW, its kinda scary looking through the LC-1 forum. The number of people having problems is enormous.

 

I have mine wired to the stereo aswell, however I originally planned to wire it into the ecu, so it would remain on when cranking, and would power off when my turbo timer cut off.

But was advised against doing so.

 

Hrmmm... well this sux!

Is IG2 there for once the car has started?