how-to: Log AFR from the LC-1 w/o a serial cable
Jun 27, 2008, 08:24 AM
#107
So no one has mentioned this yet as far as I see, but is there any reason to actually tear into the ecu wiring harness? I just hooked up my LC-1 last night and decided to use the plug from the stock rear o2 sensor. I just cut off the wiring harness about 3.5" back from the plug.
I hooked a resister between the two black wires to eliminate the heater CEL.
Then I hooked the brown wire from the LC-1 to the blue wire on the plug. Honestly this was a guess, blue or white, which leads to the ECU?
I figured I'd try one and see if it worked, then try the other if it didn't work. I did not look at the ecu harness and see if the lead to the rear o2 input was blue, as it was a bit late and it seemed to work, so I thought I'd just run with it. Can anyone confirm this?
I hooked a resister between the two black wires to eliminate the heater CEL.
Then I hooked the brown wire from the LC-1 to the blue wire on the plug. Honestly this was a guess, blue or white, which leads to the ECU?
I figured I'd try one and see if it worked, then try the other if it didn't work. I did not look at the ecu harness and see if the lead to the rear o2 input was blue, as it was a bit late and it seemed to work, so I thought I'd just run with it. Can anyone confirm this?
Jun 27, 2008, 09:12 AM
#108
So no one has mentioned this yet as far as I see, but is there any reason to actually tear into the ecu wiring harness? I just hooked up my LC-1 last night and decided to use the plug from the stock rear o2 sensor. I just cut off the wiring harness about 3.5" back from the plug.
I hooked a resister between the two black wires to eliminate the heater CEL.
Then I hooked the brown wire from the LC-1 to the blue wire on the plug. Honestly this was a guess, blue or white, which leads to the ECU? I figured I'd try one and see if it worked, then try the other if it didn't work. I did not look at the ecu harness and see if the lead to the rear o2 input was blue, as it was a bit late and it seemed to work, so I thought I'd just run with it. Can anyone confirm this?
I hooked a resister between the two black wires to eliminate the heater CEL.
Then I hooked the brown wire from the LC-1 to the blue wire on the plug. Honestly this was a guess, blue or white, which leads to the ECU?
I figured I'd try one and see if it worked, then try the other if it didn't work. I did not look at the ecu harness and see if the lead to the rear o2 input was blue, as it was a bit late and it seemed to work, so I thought I'd just run with it. Can anyone confirm this?
Jun 27, 2008, 11:48 AM
#109
The way I have it, the LC-1 control module stays under the seat (I'm thinking?) and then there is no wiring going into the ecu area at all, since I'm grabbing power and ground from under the shifter console (cig lighter and chassis). So I'd have to majorly extend the brown wire to run it all the way to the ecu. For me, this seems easier because I have all of my aquamist stuff wired in already, this way it's isolated for troubleshooting issues, and I don't cause other issues while installing this
Do you have a diagram that includes wire color mrfred? I'll just go look on my car and see sometime tonight, but looks to me that the BLUE wire is the one to use. I have very accurate (i.e. what I'd expect) numbers coming into evo scan
Do you have a diagram that includes wire color mrfred? I'll just go look on my car and see sometime tonight, but looks to me that the BLUE wire is the one to use. I have very accurate (i.e. what I'd expect) numbers coming into evo scan
Jun 27, 2008, 11:54 AM
#110
I have an NGK-AGX Wide band which also comes with 2 extra wires in its harness for 0-5v output. I was thinking they needed to be pinned into a serial connector and actually picked one up but wasnt sure I could make it work.
So Can I make it work by pinning them directly to the ECU and log it through EVOSCAN. Willing to pay greatly for help in doing so in the NE
So Can I make it work by pinning them directly to the ECU and log it through EVOSCAN. Willing to pay greatly for help in doing so in the NE
Jun 28, 2008, 10:35 PM
#112
Ordered the pins 
Im guessing for EVOSCAN 2.3 Ill have to update the Data.XML with the same
Add the following entry to your EvoScan (2.1) "Data.xml" file:
<DataListItem DataLog="Y" Color="" Display="Wideband AFR" LogReference="WideBand" RequestID="12" Eval="0.05859*x+7.35" Unit="AFR" MetricEval="" MetricUnit="" ResponseBytes="1" GaugeMin="0" GaugeMax="22" ChartMin="0" ChartMax="22" ScalingFactor="1" Notes="" Priority="1" Visible="false" />
Just with the different scaling formula correct
Im guessing for EVOSCAN 2.3 Ill have to update the Data.XML with the same
Add the following entry to your EvoScan (2.1) "Data.xml" file:
<DataListItem DataLog="Y" Color="" Display="Wideband AFR" LogReference="WideBand" RequestID="12" Eval="0.05859*x+7.35" Unit="AFR" MetricEval="" MetricUnit="" ResponseBytes="1" GaugeMin="0" GaugeMax="22" ChartMin="0" ChartMax="22" ScalingFactor="1" Notes="" Priority="1" Visible="false" />
Just with the different scaling formula correct
Jul 10, 2008, 09:44 AM
#113
OK I put the XML posted above data into EVOSCAN v2.4. However when I go into EVOSCAN I have no button to check for Wideband AFR
The external wideband ARF box is there that came in the origional XML but not the text MFRED said to enter
Help I want to get this thing logging
The external wideband ARF box is there that came in the origional XML but not the text MFRED said to enter
Help I want to get this thing logging
Jul 12, 2008, 10:07 AM
#116
NGK Logging AFR's now FTW. Id like to thank MRFRED, Bnice01, Jack of all trades, for help with the NGK logging and the rest of you innovators for finding these kick *** ECU mods all of your guys work is soooo kick *** and makes owning an EVO friggin awesome
So Cheers guys you deserve it
So Cheers guys you deserve it
Sep 16, 2008, 07:46 AM
#118
Question for wideband O2 experts
Hi,
I was looking at products on Dynotunes website.
They have a heat sink bushing to protect wideband O2 sensors from excessive heat and they had a copy of the LC-1 installation instructions that showed the copper heat sink that could be fabricated.
My question is:
If both of the above fixes were done, would a wideband O2 sensor live in the stock housing location?
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=158
Anybody have experience with this?
Thanks
Mitsuatb
I was looking at products on Dynotunes website.
They have a heat sink bushing to protect wideband O2 sensors from excessive heat and they had a copy of the LC-1 installation instructions that showed the copper heat sink that could be fabricated.
My question is:
If both of the above fixes were done, would a wideband O2 sensor live in the stock housing location?
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=158
Anybody have experience with this?
Thanks
Mitsuatb
Sep 16, 2008, 09:02 AM
#119
I would assume that the heatsink would heatsoak rather quickly and become useless, if not more of a hinderance at that point. If it absorbs the heat and then you decel (which cools the exhaust flow) it'd take longer to cool the sensor since its wrapped in a heated blanket at that point. Just my 2 cents.
Sep 16, 2008, 10:56 AM
#120
Hi, Thanks for the reply.
I don't see much wrong with your logic.
There are a couple of things that might allow it to work.
1) The Heat sink bushing has turned fins, this will allow some cooling and reduce the heat path area.
3) Sensor is further from the direct heat.
2) The drilled holes in the nose of the heat sink bushing will reduce contact of the sensor to the high speed flow of the exhaust, so the tip of the sensor should heat less.
Heatsoak is possible, I don't know what will win, as long as the "Peak Temps" are held down that might be good enough.
Still not sure, spend $90.00 and I will get to find out.
Mitsuatb
I don't see much wrong with your logic.
There are a couple of things that might allow it to work.
1) The Heat sink bushing has turned fins, this will allow some cooling and reduce the heat path area.
3) Sensor is further from the direct heat.
2) The drilled holes in the nose of the heat sink bushing will reduce contact of the sensor to the high speed flow of the exhaust, so the tip of the sensor should heat less.
Heatsoak is possible, I don't know what will win, as long as the "Peak Temps" are held down that might be good enough.
Still not sure, spend $90.00 and I will get to find out.
Mitsuatb
I would assume that the heatsink would heatsoak rather quickly and become useless, if not more of a hinderance at that point. If it absorbs the heat and then you decel (which cools the exhaust flow) it'd take longer to cool the sensor since its wrapped in a heated blanket at that point. Just my 2 cents.