I wish I would have had my AIT in the car prior to doing all of that. It would have been nice to have that data. The set-up you mentioned is what is in the car now..

Half of the reason I wanted to block off the EGR in the head was because my Hondata gasket was melted by my EGR temperatures I was seeing. It slowly developed an exhaust leak, and I played heck trying to find it. Who would have though you would have had an exhaust leak on the intake manifold side of the car.

 

Not as easy, but if you are in there doing head work, you can simply have the passage in the exhaust port welded up too.

 

Actually after reviewing my logs I see some interesting data. Below is some highlighted areas of interest.

On the left the spike in IAT/MAT is from idle, which makes sense. On the right there is a drop in both IAT and MAT during the 2nd gear pull.

 

I plan on doing a ported head at some point. For now i think I will be ok with just the block off. I really dont want to pull the intake mani again lol.

 

I actually debated that, but most of the reason i do things the way I do is because of flexability. For example, I ripped out the coolant nipples on the T/B, drilled and tapped them for 1/8" NPT plugs. If I ever wanted to re-use them I could just pull out the plugs and insert a barbed fitting.

MR Turco, I don't blame you for not wanting to pull that manifold off again. It gets to be a pain when you do it over and over and over again.

 

Another way to disable EGR circulation is to simply zero out the EGR duty table. No fussing with hardware and can be reenabled at any time.

 

But you still get EGR gasses in the manifold.

 

When i pulled the manifold I didn't want to put back the supporting bracket which holds the egr solenoid, in turn i wasn't sure if not having a line to the valve would cause it to blow open so i just removed everything. Block off plate and new egr gasket came to a total of $7 shipped so it wasn't a tough decision to remove everything.

 

MRTurco, that second set of graphs makes a lot more sense and shows that the sensor actually cools off as you go WOT from cruise/idle conditions. I'm sure if you stayed WOT for longer, you would see it start to climb as the IC got hot.

Actual intake temps are likely even a few degrees cooler but there likely isn't enough temperature gradiant at that point to force the sensor to read lower then what it did. I say this because the temp drops one more count after you let off, showing it was still cooling off and just took that long to hit the next point of resolution.

I would bet that's the sensor lag that you are seeing though as true IAT likely drop almost imediately after going WOT then typically climb with boost and engine speed.

 

Why would that be? With the EGR solenoid set to 0% duty, there should be no EGR flow.

 

I think he is refering to the fact that the EGs sit along the #4 runner in the IM. See here:

 

ok, I see the point, but as long as the gas is not flowing along in that section of tube, there should be very little heat transfer up the tube. I'd say that 90% of the benefit could be had just by zeroing out the EGR duty talbe.

 

Mike - do you have the stock airbox in still?

 

I'll go one better. With no flow through the EGR tube you really will not be able to quantify, realistically speaking, the temp rise. Considering that cylinders 1 and 4 are on the outside perimeter of the engine cylinders 2 and 3 see more temperature related differentials than what you are going to get from an EGR port that isn't actually flowing any exhaust gasses.

 

Nope, i installed a perrin intake with the perrin/samco tube when i did the intake mani.