Alright so heres the deal. I recently got my Innovate wideband lc-1 db gauge installed and a reputable shop and when i picked the car up he said it would take a few days for the gauge to start reading. So i said alright ill wait a few days and see whats good. So i waited a few days and its still jumping all over the place and holding at certain numbers and then a little flash of the number. So now i need to figure out what to do. Either A: my wideband just doesn't work, or B: it needs to be calibrated. Now im thinking alright well how to i calibrate it. Maybe i can plug in the serial cable to my computer. Oh wait, my computer doesn't have a serial connector thinger! Alright maybe i can get a serial to usb and do that. Now my next problem, i have a Mac Book pro and im not sure i will be able to use the software given by innovate, use ecuflash or mitsulogger or evoscan. But i do have a program where i can run PC programs on my mac. So now i need some advice as i am a tuning noob (i only have experience helping a friend tune his 1st gen with dsmlink) Will i be able to use my macbook pro to tune with and will i be able to fix my wideband with my laptop? please help hahah

 

I have a macbook also...... I am of the opinion that its probably not the best choice for tuning.... so I ended up picking up a older used laptop for tuning..... that is the only thing is does.... also if you drop it.... spill on it.... or something its not and expensive MAC you're losing.

You have the macbook pro.... so you have a intel based processor... you can put windows on it if its your only option.

 

AFR is never a steady number, especially at idle and cruise. You should see anywhere between 14:1 and 15.5:1 while idling and cruising. WOT, untuned, you'll probably see around 10.5:1 and 11.5:1 by redline. If it sits steady on one value, then you have a problem. Also, a wideband doesn't "take a few days to start reading" Anyone that tells you that is an idiot or thinks that you are.

 

yeah thats what i figured too. alright well im about to go out and check and see whats up with the values. any tips on calibration. i was just reading an online manual and it said something about a free air calibration or something like that.

 

oh and its not at 14 or 15 at idle, it will go from 22 to 7.5 to 10 then 11 and all in between when just sitting at idle.

 

Take it back to the "reputable shop".

There's good info here.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/

 

yea i would defiantly get rid of that, go and buy the gauge brand new, then install it yourself, cant go wrong, plus youll save a buck, makes for a good afternoon project, also make sure that where they added your sensor that its 36" or more from the turbo outlet and that it isnt after the catalytic converter if you still have one, the first will burn the sensor out prematurely (quoted by both innovate and AEM) the second will definatly give you false readings


is your car tuned?

 

no im not tuned. i guess ill give them a call. anybody think i should try the free air calibration or something else before i take it to the shop.

 

Should be able to use the MacBook Pro. ECUFlash is now native on Intel macs. Parallels or any of the other PC emulators should allow your computer to run the Innovate software and read the controller via a serial to USB converter.

 

alright I guess I'll get a serial to USB converter and see if I can log it at all. I still need to get the gauge reading right and I still need help doing that. To recap, when I'm driving the numbers will literally jump from anywhere to 7.4 to 22 and when I'm at zero throtal it will hold at 22.1 or something like that.

 

At the least, the O2 sensor calibration is messed up. Heater calibration may be messed up too. What the installer said about having to wait a few days is total BS. Sounds to me like he wanted to get you out of his shop after doing crappy install.

 

+1 for everyone else

annnnd....


I use bootcamp with XP for tuning here and there... It works well but is kind of a pain..

Cheers!

 

Thats definatly a a calibration issue with readings like that or setting got changed from Gas to something else. Just calibrate it and you should be good

 

alright cool, I guess I'll have to figure out how to calibrate it. I read that I need to take the sensor out and do something with this red button. I know for a fact the red button was not installed and is still in the box. Any ideas on what and where to put the button?

 

In the LM Programmer software, there is an option to simultaneously reset both the sensor and heater calibration. Best option would be to let the car sit overnight, then pump the exhaust with air (disconnect CAS and crank engine), and then do a reset.