EGR removal and CEL
Jul 18, 2008 | 10:54 AM
#36
Change it to: 0DDF. You'll have to enter it as 0x0DDF (both of the "0"s are zeros). This will disable a slew of OBD-II tests. I'd like to disable just the Evap stuff, but its not possible. The periphery bits that control the Evap tests also control some other tests. The tests that will be disabled are:
1. I opened my rom and opened the ECU Periphery2 map
2. I clicked Edit, then Add to Data
3. I typed in the 0x0DDF and hit Enter
4. The result was that the value displayed went to FBBE instead.
I saved my old XML file so I can simply paste it in and do it right this time if someone can be kind enough to explain exactly where/how to type in 0x0DDF. Sorry to waste valuable time, but I really appreciate the help.
Tom
Jul 18, 2008 | 11:34 AM
#37
I'm going to have to peek my head in the Evo's booty to have a look at that EVAP canister. If its anything like a DSM. If the solenoid is left connected, but with no lines going to it - it will stay silent. And still allow you to remove the canister.
The hard line (evap line in engine bay) on my car is already capped, and all the other emissions related lines / hardware removed. (Solenoids in place, plugged in, no lines on them.) I even bypassed the FP solenoid. As well as EGR being blocked. I have the code disabled as shown above with Periphery 2. (rear o2 code patch as well)
I do not ever get codes. Any.
Maybe I'll yank the EVAP out tomorrow and see if it gives me a light.
The hard line (evap line in engine bay) on my car is already capped, and all the other emissions related lines / hardware removed. (Solenoids in place, plugged in, no lines on them.) I even bypassed the FP solenoid. As well as EGR being blocked. I have the code disabled as shown above with Periphery 2. (rear o2 code patch as well)
I do not ever get codes. Any.
Maybe I'll yank the EVAP out tomorrow and see if it gives me a light.
Well, I ganked all that stuff by the tank last night - all you have left will be 2 lines venting underneath - one seems to come from filler neck and other from the tank.
There is no nice way to leave the solenoid hanging and plugged in from what I can tell. My plug seemed to be cracked as well due to the prior history of the car.
Now, are you sure you can cap the vent line under the hood, I thought that helped get rid of tank pressure?
Do others leave the solenoid(s) in place, I didnt?
How did you bypass FPR solenoid, can you post pics? More vaccum lines I can eliminate, the better. I am waiting to weld some bungs onto the ported IM before I install it back on and that will help...
Sadly my car is extremely torn apart and I won't be able to fix the codes now, I have these threads subscribed to when I get it finished...
Thanks all!
PS - One last question sorta off-topic - Do I need to leave stock boost solenoid plugged in or have the smarty pants on here figured a way to disable it as well with the code?
Jul 18, 2008 | 11:39 AM
#38
EvoM Guru
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
I know I made the mistake by the WAY I tried to change the EDDF value.
1. I opened my rom and opened the ECU Periphery2 map
2. I clicked Edit, then Add to Data
3. I typed in the 0x0DDF and hit Enter
4. The result was that the value displayed went to FBBE instead.
I saved my old XML file so I can simply paste it in and do it right this time if someone can be kind enough to explain exactly where/how to type in 0x0DDF. Sorry to waste valuable time, but I really appreciate the help.
Tom
1. I opened my rom and opened the ECU Periphery2 map
2. I clicked Edit, then Add to Data
3. I typed in the 0x0DDF and hit Enter
4. The result was that the value displayed went to FBBE instead.
I saved my old XML file so I can simply paste it in and do it right this time if someone can be kind enough to explain exactly where/how to type in 0x0DDF. Sorry to waste valuable time, but I really appreciate the help.
Tom
Last edited by mrfred; Jul 18, 2008 at 11:42 AM.
Jul 18, 2008 | 01:55 PM
#39
Asmodeus6/others
Well, I ganked all that stuff by the tank last night - all you have left will be 2 lines venting underneath - one seems to come from filler neck and other from the tank.
There is no nice way to leave the solenoid hanging and plugged in from what I can tell. My plug seemed to be cracked as well due to the prior history of the car.
Now, are you sure you can cap the vent line under the hood, I thought that helped get rid of tank pressure?
Do others leave the solenoid(s) in place, I didnt?
How did you bypass FPR solenoid, can you post pics? More vaccum lines I can eliminate, the better. I am waiting to weld some bungs onto the ported IM before I install it back on and that will help...
Sadly my car is extremely torn apart and I won't be able to fix the codes now, I have these threads subscribed to when I get it finished...
Thanks all!
PS - One last question sorta off-topic - Do I need to leave stock boost solenoid plugged in or have the smarty pants on here figured a way to disable it as well with the code?
Well, I ganked all that stuff by the tank last night - all you have left will be 2 lines venting underneath - one seems to come from filler neck and other from the tank.
There is no nice way to leave the solenoid hanging and plugged in from what I can tell. My plug seemed to be cracked as well due to the prior history of the car.
Now, are you sure you can cap the vent line under the hood, I thought that helped get rid of tank pressure?
Do others leave the solenoid(s) in place, I didnt?
How did you bypass FPR solenoid, can you post pics? More vaccum lines I can eliminate, the better. I am waiting to weld some bungs onto the ported IM before I install it back on and that will help...
Sadly my car is extremely torn apart and I won't be able to fix the codes now, I have these threads subscribed to when I get it finished...
Thanks all!
PS - One last question sorta off-topic - Do I need to leave stock boost solenoid plugged in or have the smarty pants on here figured a way to disable it as well with the code?
Here's what I did during my recent clutch change. I took all the lines from the TB. OFF. Then I removed the lines from the hard lines running down the back of the intake manifold. I removed the intake manifold stay. (took the solenoid off of it and found an empty located on the back of the water pipe to bolt it to. There is a spot you can thread it into on the water pipe.) Then I removed the evap lines and any other lines I found not going directly where I wanted. I also removed the junction pieces that go over the valve cover in hard line / soft line / hard line etc. I ran a single 1/4in hose from the EVAP line to my bov. Voila... my TiAL doesn't surge as much. The FP solenoid (I assumed) was in between the FPR and on the corner of the manifold. I just took the lines off of it and left it plugged in. The same for all solenoids. I removed the vacuum lines but left them in place, and plugged in.
I do not get codes.
I'm sure the line I capped may vent tank pressure. But even when I go to fill up I don't get the bov sounding gas cap. So its still venting somewhere now.
Guess I'll find out when I yank out the EVAP box.
Jul 18, 2008 | 05:35 PM
#40
Anyway, a big thanks to mrfred and evodan. The CEL is totally gone. So despite my AMS VSR intake manifold, the 2.3, the HTA35R, Cams, and a test pipe - I drive around CEL free.
The problem turned out that I was just too dense to include the "=" sign at the start of the new value to change the table
Now, my next is to find out if there is a solution to the 70mph shudder that forces my to momentarily lift throttle, shows up in logs as knock, and throws a P0300 CEL. My CReader eliminates the CEL, but not the drivability issue. Will the 0014 ROM really solve this issue? I know that switching to it will allow me the cool Tephra mods, but will it really eliminate the studdering at steady hwy speeds?
Jul 18, 2008 | 05:39 PM
#41
Darn, I thought I'd already posted my happy ending this morning. Must have forgot to hit the Submit Reply button.
Anyway, a big thanks to mrfred and evodan. The CEL is totally gone. So despite my AMS VSR intake manifold, the 2.3, the HTA35R, Cams, and a test pipe - I drive around CEL free.
The problem turned out that I was just too dense to include the "=" sign at the start of the new value to change the table
Now, my next is to find out if there is a solution to the 70mph shudder that forces my to momentarily lift throttle, shows up in logs as knock, and throws a P0300 CEL. My CReader eliminates the CEL, but not the drivability issue. Will the 0014 ROM really solve this issue? I know that switching to it will allow me the cool Tephra mods, but will it really eliminate the studdering at steady hwy speeds?
Anyway, a big thanks to mrfred and evodan. The CEL is totally gone. So despite my AMS VSR intake manifold, the 2.3, the HTA35R, Cams, and a test pipe - I drive around CEL free.
The problem turned out that I was just too dense to include the "=" sign at the start of the new value to change the table
Now, my next is to find out if there is a solution to the 70mph shudder that forces my to momentarily lift throttle, shows up in logs as knock, and throws a P0300 CEL. My CReader eliminates the CEL, but not the drivability issue. Will the 0014 ROM really solve this issue? I know that switching to it will allow me the cool Tephra mods, but will it really eliminate the studdering at steady hwy speeds?
updating to a 0014 or 0015 map will deff help as it was a mistu update because of the p0300 code always popping up. crap i think mine would pop up when a bug hit the windshield. it was a pita till i updated.
Jul 18, 2008 | 05:56 PM
#42
no bud its ok. i saw it. i just thought you changed something after the fix. which would make the egr cel lights come back. glad its all working
updating to a 0014 or 0015 map will deff help as it was a mistu update because of the p0300 code always popping up. crap i think mine would pop up when a bug hit the windshield. it was a pita till i updated.
updating to a 0014 or 0015 map will deff help as it was a mistu update because of the p0300 code always popping up. crap i think mine would pop up when a bug hit the windshield. it was a pita till i updated.
I'm assuming I start with a stock 94170014 ROM, patiently copy and paste the content of the relevant tables from my current 94170008 ROM, modify the the XML to contain the various mods to the new ROM, and, when I think it is done, have someone take a second look at it before loading it?
Links to transferring ROMs succesfully anybody?
Jul 18, 2008 | 06:18 PM
#43
Dan,
I'm assuming I start with a stock 94170014 ROM, patiently copy and paste the content of the relevant tables from my current 94170008 ROM, modify the the XML to contain the various mods to the new ROM, and, when I think it is done, have someone take a second look at it before loading it?
Links to transferring ROMs succesfully anybody?
I'm assuming I start with a stock 94170014 ROM, patiently copy and paste the content of the relevant tables from my current 94170008 ROM, modify the the XML to contain the various mods to the new ROM, and, when I think it is done, have someone take a second look at it before loading it?
Links to transferring ROMs succesfully anybody?
basicly yes you got it. then do the tephra v5 mod and get the benafits from that as well
Jul 18, 2008 | 10:23 PM
#44
Which solenoid are you speaking of? Is it back by the tank, or in the engine bay? (Is there a solenoid or plug in the rear, haven't had a chance to look yet)
Here's what I did during my recent clutch change. I took all the lines from the TB. OFF. Then I removed the lines from the hard lines running down the back of the intake manifold. I removed the intake manifold stay. (took the solenoid off of it and found an empty located on the back of the water pipe to bolt it to. There is a spot you can thread it into on the water pipe.) Then I removed the evap lines and any other lines I found not going directly where I wanted. I also removed the junction pieces that go over the valve cover in hard line / soft line / hard line etc. I ran a single 1/4in hose from the EVAP line to my bov. Voila... my TiAL doesn't surge as much. The FP solenoid (I assumed) was in between the FPR and on the corner of the manifold. I just took the lines off of it and left it plugged in. The same for all solenoids. I removed the vacuum lines but left them in place, and plugged in.
I do not get codes.
I'm sure the line I capped may vent tank pressure. But even when I go to fill up I don't get the bov sounding gas cap. So its still venting somewhere now.
Guess I'll find out when I yank out the EVAP box.
Here's what I did during my recent clutch change. I took all the lines from the TB. OFF. Then I removed the lines from the hard lines running down the back of the intake manifold. I removed the intake manifold stay. (took the solenoid off of it and found an empty located on the back of the water pipe to bolt it to. There is a spot you can thread it into on the water pipe.) Then I removed the evap lines and any other lines I found not going directly where I wanted. I also removed the junction pieces that go over the valve cover in hard line / soft line / hard line etc. I ran a single 1/4in hose from the EVAP line to my bov. Voila... my TiAL doesn't surge as much. The FP solenoid (I assumed) was in between the FPR and on the corner of the manifold. I just took the lines off of it and left it plugged in. The same for all solenoids. I removed the vacuum lines but left them in place, and plugged in.
I do not get codes.
I'm sure the line I capped may vent tank pressure. But even when I go to fill up I don't get the bov sounding gas cap. So its still venting somewhere now.
Guess I'll find out when I yank out the EVAP box.
Took TB off and capped the lines like you did.
There are a total of 3 solenoids on the intake manifold area of the engine bay which I touched and are as follows:
1) FPR solenoid (pic below) - attached to passengers side corner of intake manifold as in 2nd pic below. The three added bungs are for my MAP sensor, boost gauge and BOV.
2) evap solenoid - attached the a little bracket on the intake manifold stay bracket
3) EGR Solenoid - attached to the hard line piece which has lines running to and from it
4) There is another solenoid/pump sorta dealie attached to the evap canister in the rear which I also removed. Below is all that comes out the rear of the car. Previous owner drove the car on gravel roads, hence the nastiness, I apologize!
Anyways, I was hoping to just not install any of these solenoids back on - but, sounds like all the solenoids need to be plugged back in
Also, just to make sure - did you unplug the #3 in my pics above? I just got my buschur block-off plate, but I seem to have misplaced my stock EGR valve bolts...time for another trip to true value..
Jul 19, 2008 | 02:17 AM
#45
Evolving Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 499
Likes: 1
From: I'm Canadian living and working in Dubai/Kuwait/Bahrain
^ yeah was wondering the same thing.
Guys, do the solenoids need to be re-attached with the AMS VSR intake manifold in.
i.e remove the solenoids from the stock manifold EGR/EVAP/FPR plug them in and secure them away somewhere neat in the engine bay followed by the rectification of the .rom with the periphery2 map....
Am trying to all the research but i cant get positive feedback regarding leaving things unplugged to the solenoids or not...
cheers
Guys, do the solenoids need to be re-attached with the AMS VSR intake manifold in.
i.e remove the solenoids from the stock manifold EGR/EVAP/FPR plug them in and secure them away somewhere neat in the engine bay followed by the rectification of the .rom with the periphery2 map....
Am trying to all the research but i cant get positive feedback regarding leaving things unplugged to the solenoids or not...
cheers