fed up with knock control
#272
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thanks - if u need a tester for 88590015, i would be happy to oblige....I get the 1-3 counts i want to ignore daily so it wouldn't take much for me to see if it works
Its also the best of both worlds for everyone - because they can ignore whatever knock they want, in whatever area they want.....and its simplified. I am a firm believer in the k.i.s.s. method of thinking .
Last edited by travman; Nov 9, 2008 at 07:22 PM.
#273
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In theory the "subtractor" method is correct. The reason is the whole basis for this whole operation. You as the tuner have verified that this engine combination is noisy by say 4 knock sums at a certain load/rpm. This noise is additive to any real detonation that would occur. Thus if the engine was really knocking by 6 counts and the engine is noisy by 4 counts, the knock sensor would read 10 knock counts. However only 6 knock counts of timing needs/should be pulled.
However with the "ignore" method this is inherently more safe. When real knock happens the car will pull a generous amount of timing including timing for the 4 knock counts that the ecu reads but is in reality only noise. I believe in safety first and pulling tons of timing when in doubt. Broken motors don't make power. Running motors make power
Also the ignore method has something built in. On a stock car 10 counts of knock really isn't a big deal. You can road race a stock car with 10 counts all day long. However a built motor that makes twice stock power will slowly be damaged by the same 10 counts of knock. Damage due to knock is additive (in that over time its effects accumulate on rod bearings etc....). Also damage is exponential. The same 10 counts of knock does many times more damage to our built motor than it did to the stocker. With the ignore method we will ignore extra engine noise basically. However, when it all goes wrong, a generous amount of timing will be pulled, which is exactly what high power setups need.
Conclusion: Ignore will work best for 95% of people. The other 5% will still be MUCH better off than they would otherwise.
However with the "ignore" method this is inherently more safe. When real knock happens the car will pull a generous amount of timing including timing for the 4 knock counts that the ecu reads but is in reality only noise. I believe in safety first and pulling tons of timing when in doubt. Broken motors don't make power. Running motors make power
Also the ignore method has something built in. On a stock car 10 counts of knock really isn't a big deal. You can road race a stock car with 10 counts all day long. However a built motor that makes twice stock power will slowly be damaged by the same 10 counts of knock. Damage due to knock is additive (in that over time its effects accumulate on rod bearings etc....). Also damage is exponential. The same 10 counts of knock does many times more damage to our built motor than it did to the stocker. With the ignore method we will ignore extra engine noise basically. However, when it all goes wrong, a generous amount of timing will be pulled, which is exactly what high power setups need.
Conclusion: Ignore will work best for 95% of people. The other 5% will still be MUCH better off than they would otherwise.
#274
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In theory the "subtractor" method is correct. The reason is the whole basis for this whole operation. Yo... dot dot dot... mount of timing will be pulled, which is exactly what high power setups need.
Conclusion: Ignore will work best for 95% of people. The other 5% will still be MUCH better off than they would otherwise.
Conclusion: Ignore will work best for 95% of people. The other 5% will still be MUCH better off than they would otherwise.
#275
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if we can ignore knock in a certain RPM range and a specified amount...
for instance 3500rpm I have a major false knock problem, sometimes 30+ counts and sometimes none at all. The fuel is right, the timing is right the boost is very low (35R). so from 3500-4000 I'd like to ignore knock completely but take it seriously everywhere else.
Typically when that nasty knock spike occurs it's perpetuated when the ecu pulls out timing and it can extend way up the RPM range. Hopefully by stopping the ECU from seeing the onset of the knock it'll be able to get through that section without timing pull and have a clean run the rest of the rpm range.
I'd like to also be able to ignore the common random 1-2 counts at high rpm that can make the car feel inconsistent.
for instance 3500rpm I have a major false knock problem, sometimes 30+ counts and sometimes none at all. The fuel is right, the timing is right the boost is very low (35R). so from 3500-4000 I'd like to ignore knock completely but take it seriously everywhere else.
Typically when that nasty knock spike occurs it's perpetuated when the ecu pulls out timing and it can extend way up the RPM range. Hopefully by stopping the ECU from seeing the onset of the knock it'll be able to get through that section without timing pull and have a clean run the rest of the rpm range.
I'd like to also be able to ignore the common random 1-2 counts at high rpm that can make the car feel inconsistent.
#276
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Mellon,
The ignore method (which is what seems to be the best solution right now) will take care of your partial throttle pre boost knock. The shift knock is usually just that, shift knock. The best way to deal with it is to ignore knock when the clutch is in. I do that on my DSM.
The ignore method (which is what seems to be the best solution right now) will take care of your partial throttle pre boost knock. The shift knock is usually just that, shift knock. The best way to deal with it is to ignore knock when the clutch is in. I do that on my DSM.
#277
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I had shift knock a long time ago but figured out why it was caused by really studying the timing map and RPM during shifts. I no longer have any knock on shifts. The high rpm knock I was referring to is during say a 3rd gear pull, I might see 1-2 counts at the most in random places. I can lower the boost, reduce the timing, add more fuel and it'll still do that in random places...
#278
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if we can ignore knock in a certain RPM range and a specified amount...
for instance 3500rpm I have a major false knock problem, sometimes 30+ counts and sometimes none at all. The fuel is right, the timing is right the boost is very low (35R). so from 3500-4000 I'd like to ignore knock completely but take it seriously everywhere else.
Typically when that nasty knock spike occurs it's perpetuated when the ecu pulls out timing and it can extend way up the RPM range. Hopefully by stopping the ECU from seeing the onset of the knock it'll be able to get through that section without timing pull and have a clean run the rest of the rpm range.
I'd like to also be able to ignore the common random 1-2 counts at high rpm that can make the car feel inconsistent.
for instance 3500rpm I have a major false knock problem, sometimes 30+ counts and sometimes none at all. The fuel is right, the timing is right the boost is very low (35R). so from 3500-4000 I'd like to ignore knock completely but take it seriously everywhere else.
Typically when that nasty knock spike occurs it's perpetuated when the ecu pulls out timing and it can extend way up the RPM range. Hopefully by stopping the ECU from seeing the onset of the knock it'll be able to get through that section without timing pull and have a clean run the rest of the rpm range.
I'd like to also be able to ignore the common random 1-2 counts at high rpm that can make the car feel inconsistent.
#279
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I had shift knock a long time ago but figured out why it was caused by really studying the timing map and RPM during shifts. I no longer have any knock on shifts. The high rpm knock I was referring to is during say a 3rd gear pull, I might see 1-2 counts at the most in random places. I can lower the boost, reduce the timing, add more fuel and it'll still do that in random places...
#280
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Hum, I think I might just go old school and get my spark plug light back out.
I'm good with just having an "oh ****" safety switch for when things go really bad. Turn off the knock sensor below XXX load and YYYY RPM, do nothing until a knock count of Z and then pull a ton of timing out after that.
That's my vote anyway.
Oh, and reset the octane number to 100% every time you key on.
I'm good with just having an "oh ****" safety switch for when things go really bad. Turn off the knock sensor below XXX load and YYYY RPM, do nothing until a knock count of Z and then pull a ton of timing out after that.
That's my vote anyway.
Oh, and reset the octane number to 100% every time you key on.
#281
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I have a question. I will occasionally get a huge KS spike (sometimes up to 20 counts)in the dreaded 3K-3.5K range when the car transitions from closed loop to open loop and passes the 0 psi mark. I've run my car thru this range a million times with no knock and I'm confident in the timing and fueling. The issue I see is the taper. I have had it peak at 20 counts at around 3200rpm and slowly taper like a set of stairs all the way down til 5K rpm. The taper is my issue. Once I go past my 'ignore' cells it will immediately drop timing when if falls on the knock taper and still ruin the run.
Someone was talking about knock decay time a while back and wondered if the ECU intentionally has the KS taper down slowly rather than instantly disappear and cause the timing to advance by a huge amount in an instant. I see the reasoning behind this but wonder if my thoery is correct at all. If so, can this decay time be adjusted for a mosre promt recovery? It would be cool if the knock sensor was literally "deaf" up until a certain RPM. If it didn't even start listening until a certain range, that would rock.
Someone was talking about knock decay time a while back and wondered if the ECU intentionally has the KS taper down slowly rather than instantly disappear and cause the timing to advance by a huge amount in an instant. I see the reasoning behind this but wonder if my thoery is correct at all. If so, can this decay time be adjusted for a mosre promt recovery? It would be cool if the knock sensor was literally "deaf" up until a certain RPM. If it didn't even start listening until a certain range, that would rock.
#283
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Is my 96940011 special? Do you guys have more mods then
I do? I attached my XML.
Last edited by D-VO; Nov 10, 2008 at 05:11 PM. Reason: Forgot something
#284
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I've added everything including Tephra's patches and mods, 10 ECU periphery' (6adjustable by bits) , base low coolant temp maps, MUT table, 2byte mods, and the baudrate mod. No problems at all, everything works! Are all of these existing maps?
Is my 96940011 special? Do you guys have more mods then
I do? I attached my XML.
Is my 96940011 special? Do you guys have more mods then
I do? I attached my XML.
All those are just custom defs minus the tephra mod (non map switching). You do not have tephra map switching as there is no space for it in 96940011.
#285
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Awesome, I'll have to track it down. So this does what I think? Adjusts how long the ECU allows the KS to linger after the "actual" knock occurance? Ironically, I would imagine if the decay time was too quick it could actually CAUSE knock from the drastic changes in timing.