Originally Posted by fostytou

So let me get a couple of things straight (we are so far OT anyway)

You are actually flashing two seperate maps when you switch to race gas instead of just flipping your switch for the tephra mods?

I tuned my car on pump gas with the stock actuator. I saved that map. Changed my WGA actuator and put racegas in it on the same tune. I added ~4 degrees of timing across the entire map and leaned it out by 0.1 through the course of t00ning the car...I changed my WGDC and my target boost. Once I maxed out my target boost I started raising my Boost Adder. I haven't installed the ECU pins for map switching.

(Since your boost adder is different for the two tunes and you are on the same tables). You can just leave it at 22.7 and set your pump map to [boost] - 8 psi (your adder) similar to your race map (IE 14 psi in the upper RPM cells.

Yes I could do that... and I would've done that had I tuned the Racegas map first and not the pump gas map. Same reason why my racegas map is scaled differently. It was modified as it became necessary.

You aren't using NLTS on what looks like a drag map?

I was advised not to flat shift the twin disc because it will slip. I've had it slip once during it...and thus I don't flat shift anymore.

Your boost doesn't really fluctuate at all at different RPM ranges?

It tapers off near redline. 30+psi @ 4k and 27 at redline. That looks like boost taper to me.

You require near 100% WGDC on a red for 32psi?

YES, this is why I was asking how I can get more boost from my control system.

...even with the actuator at 23psi?

The FP actuator is rated as a "23psi actuator", and yes.

I was under the impression the Red held much better than this. (but I don't have any experience with one yet).

I was and am still under this impression.

I would also flip all of those 0% wgdc cells to 100% and then drop down to 85% the cell before it spools (your 3500RPM cell if your map is correct, however the 40% might be in there to keep spike down).

That's really not tuned at lower engine speeds since I haven't been on a dyno yet. 4th gear pulls are very sacred... hard to achieve on Interstate-5. I will change it to 100%. makes perfect sense why.

I'm also curious why you are only hitting ~300 load. I would think that you would be much higher in the 340+ area with a Red.

I've hit 355 with it... but at lower engine speeds e.g. 4k

As a guestimate I don't think your timing is too far off, but thats just a guess (again, no experience with the red). With that level of boost I can see 15-16* near redline being plenty, but the numbers are a little jumpy.

It needs to be smoothed that's for sure. The higher load cells haven't been tested yet (thus...why i need more boost) The timing is as aggressive as I'm comfortable with, without doing it on a dyno to check degree of advance vs. delta in torque. To find out where I am compared to MBT. From that point I'll retard the timing 2 degrees and cut my cylinder pressure in half.

I'm curious to see the MIVEC map. I think it being unique is all the more reason to post it, but thats just me . The only thing preventing me from posting a map is if it is a standard vendor flash.

If aaron want's to post his/my mivec map...I'll let him do that.

Originally Posted by R/TErnie

I modified my timing map as JB suggested and made both my pump and race gas boost adders the same. My car still shift knocks... or should I say it "lift knocks". When I lift on throttle the car knocks. Could this be hardware related? Engine mounts being too soft? I have a agency power FMM.

I then went on to smooth out my timing maps and lean out my pump gas map. I'm also going to add WGDC and target on the pump map to get the boost to hold better.

Fast Freddie helped me adjust my idle today. It makes me way happier!

I'm considering switching to speed density to get rid of the MAF sensor and run a larger intake....more boostage!