Compressor surge, or BOV flutter? (my evo)
Mar 7, 2010, 07:53 PM
#33
another dumb ? most likely, but how many bolts lock in the lower heat shiled? I have the heats shield on top 1 off, and it appears that theres 3 bolts for the lower, 1 infront, (on top) 1 on the left, and 1 down towards the bottom area. And the 1 on the right, that is visible is to the actual wategate?
Mar 7, 2010, 08:15 PM
#34
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Looking at those boost control tables....it appears that you may have too big of a jump from one RPM to another in the WGDC tables. In the WGDC High it has 100 at 2k and 75 at 2.5K....try increasing the 2500 WGDC to 100. Then taper it to control the boost as you should desire.
As for the lower heat shield....I removed mine years ago....I found it is easy to remove if you remove the O2 sensor with and o2 sensor socket. I don't remember how many bolts it has. The upper one has 4. 3 on top and one in the front.
As for the lower heat shield....I removed mine years ago....I found it is easy to remove if you remove the O2 sensor with and o2 sensor socket. I don't remember how many bolts it has. The upper one has 4. 3 on top and one in the front.
Mar 7, 2010, 08:33 PM
#35
Looking at those boost control tables....it appears that you may have too big of a jump from one RPM to another in the WGDC tables. In the WGDC High it has 100 at 2k and 75 at 2.5K....try increasing the 2500 WGDC to 100. Then taper it to control the boost as you should desire.
As for the lower heat shield....I removed mine years ago....I found it is easy to remove if you remove the O2 sensor with and o2 sensor socket. I don't remember how many bolts it has. The upper one has 4. 3 on top and one in the front.
As for the lower heat shield....I removed mine years ago....I found it is easy to remove if you remove the O2 sensor with and o2 sensor socket. I don't remember how many bolts it has. The upper one has 4. 3 on top and one in the front.
I have a feeling that the lower heat shield is gonna be a PITA, but well see... Ive read that some where able to slide it over to get the spring in, but had to remove the entire heatshield to tighten up the arm...
I have figured out the boost guage line situation, thanks to your help. Just need to hit up autozone. Was gonna try tightening the arm first...
Mar 7, 2010, 08:41 PM
#37
Im trying to learn a lil "mechanics" from this forum... and no previous experience...
although this site , and its members are quite helpful!!! 
Mar 7, 2010, 08:44 PM
#38
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I've been turning wrenches for nearly 20 years.......You can imagine the $$$ I save working on my own stuff.
Actually....many of my friends are encouraging me to open a tuner shop in the area.
So how was your mechanic able to so easily "reset" your WG with the heat shield on??? HMMM
Actually....many of my friends are encouraging me to open a tuner shop in the area.
So how was your mechanic able to so easily "reset" your WG with the heat shield on??? HMMM
Mar 7, 2010, 08:54 PM
#39
I've been turning wrenches for nearly 20 years.......You can imagine the $$$ I save working on my own stuff.
Actually....many of my friends are encouraging me to open a tuner shop in the area.
So how was your mechanic able to so easily "reset" your WG with the heat shield on??? HMMM
Actually....many of my friends are encouraging me to open a tuner shop in the area.
So how was your mechanic able to so easily "reset" your WG with the heat shield on??? HMMM
They had a ported hotside @ the shop, so just swapped it, (took off the turbo/ex. mani/wastegate assembly, and while it was off, he reset it to "0" (which is supposed to be stock) I was asked if I wanted it tightened, said, please. He said he gave it 2 more turns...
Mar 7, 2010, 09:04 PM
#41
just gonna have to do 1 thing at a time, to narrow it down, I guess...
thanks for the help!
edit: decided to tighten up the throttle cable, since I was playing around... There was enough slack, for me to justify doing this, so tightened it up ever so slightly, and just from free reving in nuetral, seems to be an improvement. We'll see tomorrow...
Last edited by nonschlont; Mar 7, 2010 at 09:47 PM.
Mar 8, 2010, 04:30 PM
#42
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Did you try increasing the WGDC to 100 for all values below boost comes on? This will help keep the EG shut until it is needed to be open for controlling boost......as if you didn't already know that.
It might just be time to upgrade your actuator to a stronger one since you are flowing so much more air.
It might just be time to upgrade your actuator to a stronger one since you are flowing so much more air.
Mar 9, 2010, 07:44 PM
#43
ya, i figured there wasnt much more I could do w/ it, (like 4 turns max) but maybe another turn, might help (which would be 3)... IDK I guess I'll start w/ the fuel/vac lines first, get that sorted out, and move on from there... I was kinda hoping, the wastegate was the cause/fix for the low rpm fluttering issue. especially since its an easy fix!
just gonna have to do 1 thing at a time, to narrow it down, I guess...
thanks for the help!
edit: decided to tighten up the throttle cable, since I was playing around... There was enough slack, for me to justify doing this, so tightened it up ever so slightly, and just from free reving in nuetral, seems to be an improvement. We'll see tomorrow...
just gonna have to do 1 thing at a time, to narrow it down, I guess...
thanks for the help!
edit: decided to tighten up the throttle cable, since I was playing around... There was enough slack, for me to justify doing this, so tightened it up ever so slightly, and just from free reving in nuetral, seems to be an improvement. We'll see tomorrow...
Mar 9, 2010, 07:49 PM
#44
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I KILLED the flutter! !
I got a great deal on an 18PSI WG actuator. Installed it with slight tension on the WG flapper. I also adjusted my APS dual vent BOV at idle to not move at all (previously it would move about 1-2mm at idle).
The car feels amazing. I can push the gas slightly on the highway and it takes off with constant turbine spool. No more chchchchchch.
SOOO....kill the flutter with the right combination of parts.
I got a great deal on an 18PSI WG actuator. Installed it with slight tension on the WG flapper. I also adjusted my APS dual vent BOV at idle to not move at all (previously it would move about 1-2mm at idle).
The car feels amazing. I can push the gas slightly on the highway and it takes off with constant turbine spool. No more chchchchchch.
SOOO....kill the flutter with the right combination of parts.
Mar 9, 2010, 07:55 PM
#45
I KILLED the flutter! !
I got a great deal on an 18PSI WG actuator. Installed it with slight tension on the WG flapper. I also adjusted my APS dual vent BOV at idle to not move at all (previously it would move about 1-2mm at idle).
The car feels amazing. I can push the gas slightly on the highway and it takes off with constant turbine spool. No more chchchchchch.
SOOO....kill the flutter with the right combination of parts.
I got a great deal on an 18PSI WG actuator. Installed it with slight tension on the WG flapper. I also adjusted my APS dual vent BOV at idle to not move at all (previously it would move about 1-2mm at idle).
The car feels amazing. I can push the gas slightly on the highway and it takes off with constant turbine spool. No more chchchchchch.
SOOO....kill the flutter with the right combination of parts.
Stock adjustment is to have the pin offset by exactly 1/2 of the hole in the WG arm. the stock arm has fine threads so a few turns are necessary Most aftermarket WG have a much coarser thread that moves the arm position faster so less turns are hto set the pin position at 1/2 hole.