veszett

I tried all scalings from 1044 to 1271. At 1044 i started the car and initial idle was around 12.5AFR for about 20-30sec then gradually climbed to 20AFR. At 1271 initial idle was around 15AFR then it did the same and went back up to 20AFR eventually. i found that 1218 gave me the closest initial idle of 14.5-14.7 and using l2r99gst's latency figures.

there was a correlation between AFR's climbing from initial AFR's to 20AFR's and that was idle RPM. at 20AFR idle dropped to around 850 from around 950-975.

veszett

logs attached.

ChrisBond1

iTrader: (9)

oh you have cams. try raising the idle. see if it helps.

veszett

my idle has been rock solid with those cams ever since i installed them.

l2r99gst asked me to take ^^ those ^^ logs...think maybe the oxygen sensor is playing up. I dont know how its meant to work but something strange is going on with the reading in those logs.

ziad

iTrader: (1)

look at the bright side... u wont be using much fuel. unlike me.

but strange the WB is going to 17,18,20 and its still pulling fuel from the trims.

veszett

But that's only cause you've got a lead foot

In the first log (post 17) the factory oxygen sensor get hung up at 0.96v and that's when the WB shows AFR's get pegged at 11.5, funny enough thats pig rich rather than lean as it is in 2nd & 3rd.. I had an understanding the oxygen sensor is meant to constantly fluctuate.

In the 2nd & 3rd logs (post 17) the oxygen sensor doesnt hang and thats when it leans out to 20AFR.

I wish I knew what it all meant.

l2r99gst

iTrader: (2)

Took a look at the logs. Looks like to me that your O2 sensor isn't working right. It's almost like it has no regard to the actual AFR. It should be bouncing around .5 when the AFR is stoich (14.7), yet it just does what it wants. It does eventually seem to settle around .5, but at a very lean AFR.

When the AFR is in the stoich range, your O2 sensor is reading rich, causing the short term trim to pull fuel. That's why the AFR starts going lean.

So, if I would have to venture a guess as this point, I would say your O2 sensor needs to be replaced.

What you can do in the meantime, is to simply try to run the car in open loop, to take the O2 sensor and the trims out of the question. At least you should be able to drive the car and get the injectors dialed in.

sparky

iTrader: (1)

Crapola mate! Get rid of that K&N Typhoon immediately. That particular intake was long ago proven to be an absolute doggie. Any Evo with that intake is basically untunable.

veszett

thankfully i've been lucky with the typhoon intake, i've had it since last year with no trouble from it.

l2r99gst hit the nail on the head regarding my initial problem and that was the o2 sensor had fouled causing all sorts of fueling anomaly's at the worst possible time!

now to dial in these injectors

veszett

Instead of buying a new OEM O2 sensor from Mitsubishi for an unbelievably ridiculous price and 8 week waiting period (where's it coming from, the moon?) i decided to wire the 1.1v analogue output from the LC1 straight into the O2/lambda sensor pin 73 in the ecu. It works so that's great

I've finished also finished setting up the 1250's. Very similar to stock idle and just a tiny bit more lopey.

The injectors were flow bench tested at 1284, 1284, 1281, 1279 which I think is pretty good for this injector. I ended up with a scaling of 1271 and l2r99gst's latency's:

4.752
2.352
1.848
1.320
0.912
0.696
0.408

I'd like to thank l2r99gst for his patience, help and time spent with this curve ball. I'd have been changing fuel pumps, injectors and who knows what else before finding the problem, which were NOT the injectors. You are a legend mate thank you!