Torque seems low and late
. Can it be my hallman MBC?
Sep 10, 2010, 12:27 PM
#32
Doubtful but alweays a possibility. I would suspect an slice in one of the vacuum lines going to/from the MBC before I would suspect the Hallman MBC was the culprit.
So whats the PSI difference between the 2 WGA's you are swapping out? I would have just adjusted the WGA you have now or spaced it further back from the turbo with some flat washers to see if it fixed the issue.
So whats the PSI difference between the 2 WGA's you are swapping out? I would have just adjusted the WGA you have now or spaced it further back from the turbo with some flat washers to see if it fixed the issue.
Sep 11, 2010, 04:09 AM
#33
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Hey guys. I switched out to a stock evo8 WGA and the torque now feels much better . My old Evo7 WGA was abput 15-16psi when I connect a vacuum source directly to it. It had a rusty liquid coming out of the hole by the shaft 
For some reason, as soon as I connect he hallman the boost would not go any lover than 20 psi when it fully unscrewed. Is this the lowest setting for the hallmans? I thought it woul have still been at the WGA psi. Anyways, Just by switching them out the boost went up automatically which caused me to hit the 300load boost cut. I turned it down to 25psi and below is the graph. Peek Torque still seems a little low still but has a better curve and car feels much stronger. I dont know where my missing torque is gone . Maybe i need to preload it a bit more?
For some reason, as soon as I connect he hallman the boost would not go any lover than 20 psi when it fully unscrewed. Is this the lowest setting for the hallmans? I thought it woul have still been at the WGA psi. Anyways, Just by switching them out the boost went up automatically which caused me to hit the 300load boost cut. I turned it down to 25psi and below is the graph. Peek Torque still seems a little low still but has a better curve and car feels much stronger. I dont know where my missing torque is gone . Maybe i need to preload it a bit more?
Last edited by EvoPower81; Sep 11, 2010 at 04:22 AM.
Sep 11, 2010, 05:10 AM
#34
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My friend had the same issue somewhat, but it was the opposite. His Hallman wouldn't got over 25-26psi. He bought a Forge MBC and he was able to run 28psi... But it was also his WGA, he had a stock 9 WGA and when he made the switch to a 25psi it was easily hitting desired boost levels... Hope this helps a little 
Sep 11, 2010, 05:21 AM
#35
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My friend had the same issue somewhat, but it was the opposite. His Hallman wouldn't got over 25-26psi. He bought a Forge MBC and he was able to run 28psi... But it was also his WGA, he had a stock 9 WGA and when he made the switch to a 25psi it was easily hitting desired boost levels... Hope this helps a little
Sep 11, 2010, 07:57 PM
#38
Your torque curve can peak closer to 4-.5k but that could be from lack of timing in that area. To know if your boost issue is fixed we need to know what RPM you hit peak boost. I'm not familiar with the Evo 7 turbos responsiveness but I would imagine its closer enough to an evo 8's turbo. If so, you should be hitting peak boost between 3.5-4k RPM.
Sep 12, 2010, 05:21 AM
#39
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Your torque curve can peak closer to 4-.5k but that could be from lack of timing in that area. To know if your boost issue is fixed we need to know what RPM you hit peak boost. I'm not familiar with the Evo 7 turbos responsiveness but I would imagine its closer enough to an evo 8's turbo. If so, you should be hitting peak boost between 3.5-4k RPM.
Im using the evo 7 turbo with a 10.5 hotside instead of the 9.8. Full boost is like 3500 rpm (270 load with 3degrees advance) from what I can see in the datalogs
. Thanks guys. Just to crank her up some more psi as the water/ meth shows no knock. I figure my torque would have been equal or past my hp as most other persons stock turbo graphs show but i guess my air temps in the tropics my have allot to do with that.
Sep 12, 2010, 06:13 AM
#41
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Im running a 11.9 afr with the water/meth at peek torque. Maybe ill try to make it a bit richer n see if it takes more timing. What is strange is that I had the timing at 5* i think but it showed 3 in the logs. I had no knock so I dunno why it pulled timing. Maybe I will post up my timing map. Can you tell me how to copy the image of the map and post it ? 
sorry for my ignorance
sorry for my ignorance
Sep 12, 2010, 06:36 AM
#42
Also make sure your BOV isn't leaking at peak boost too. I generally stick around 11.5AFR with water/meth injection but everyone has different preferences with it. This is how you capture a snapshot of your timing chart:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wRKj...eature=related
With your air intake temps being so high there, your ECU is retarding the ignition timing which is why you see a different value than you have in the timing map.
First, log your Air Temps during a pull while doing your tuning session so we can see which section your air temps fall into on the table below.
Next, we need to edit the table to accommodate the air temp range you are currently tuning with. Lets say your air temps are 100*F on average, this would land you closest to the 93*F cell in the table which currently reads -1* of timing retard.
What we are going to do is 'SHIFT' the timing curve in this map so its still useful without having to zero all of the values out to make it useless.
Now, edit the values in the table so the cells with the zero is 93* and have it add timing slowly as the temps get cooler and lower timing as the air temps get warmer. Now this feature is still fully functional and adjusted for the Air Temp range that you are tuning with! Now, sometimes if I am tuning on a really hot day, I will actually have it ADD 1* of timing in the 68* cell since the engine is less knock prone under these conditions. The next time you run into an issue with an extreme temperature change, try adjusting these settings before retuning the entire timing map!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wRKj...eature=related
With your air intake temps being so high there, your ECU is retarding the ignition timing which is why you see a different value than you have in the timing map.
First, log your Air Temps during a pull while doing your tuning session so we can see which section your air temps fall into on the table below.
Next, we need to edit the table to accommodate the air temp range you are currently tuning with. Lets say your air temps are 100*F on average, this would land you closest to the 93*F cell in the table which currently reads -1* of timing retard.
What we are going to do is 'SHIFT' the timing curve in this map so its still useful without having to zero all of the values out to make it useless.
Now, edit the values in the table so the cells with the zero is 93* and have it add timing slowly as the temps get cooler and lower timing as the air temps get warmer. Now this feature is still fully functional and adjusted for the Air Temp range that you are tuning with! Now, sometimes if I am tuning on a really hot day, I will actually have it ADD 1* of timing in the 68* cell since the engine is less knock prone under these conditions. The next time you run into an issue with an extreme temperature change, try adjusting these settings before retuning the entire timing map!
Last edited by Jack_of_Trades; Sep 12, 2010 at 07:44 AM.
Sep 12, 2010, 07:26 AM
#44
That was my Evo-m contribution of the day lol. Its just smarter than zero'ing out the entire table like many others do. In New England, we can have drastic temperature swings on the same day so its a must for the timing to adjust itself for us. It has been in the low 20's at 6am and in the 80's by noon. People will mess around with their entire tune on very hot/cold days when all they need to do is edit this table a bit more to compensate.
Sep 12, 2010, 07:35 AM
#45
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JOT.....That is why I get bombarded all of the time with "tunes" that have horrible drivability. These "tuners" need to understand that the car should be able to drive well in all conditions. Not everyone has a dedicated warm weather track queen.
To be able to have stock-like drivability and have over 450whp is a feat. It takes a ton of patience and a lot of work.
To be able to have stock-like drivability and have over 450whp is a feat. It takes a ton of patience and a lot of work.