Innovate LC-1 Issue
#1
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Innovate LC-1 Issue
Hey guys,
I've put this in here cause I know alot of you run these units.
Just wondering if anyones seen this before and whether this points to an earthing issue or whether i've got a bung unit.
-Running an Innovate LC-1 as above, wired into my stereo power and earth.
-Firmware at 1.10
-Calibrated correctly in free air
-LED is flashing for 10sec or so whilst in heating phase then goes solid indicating OK
-When the car is fired up Logworks gauge shoes an 02% of 20.9, then cycling from 1.3% back up to 20.9% again.
-Blipping the throttle makes the needle on teh gauge flash up at 7.5a/f and then goes back to nothing with the '02%' in the middle of the gauge.
-In Evoscan I think its reading the LC-1 input correctly as it displays the same 7.50 when blipping the throttle, then goes to 0 indicating the 02% issue, log attached.
-Is my issue the grounding location at the stereo? Or something further?
Cheers
Ben
I've put this in here cause I know alot of you run these units.
Just wondering if anyones seen this before and whether this points to an earthing issue or whether i've got a bung unit.
-Running an Innovate LC-1 as above, wired into my stereo power and earth.
-Firmware at 1.10
-Calibrated correctly in free air
-LED is flashing for 10sec or so whilst in heating phase then goes solid indicating OK
-When the car is fired up Logworks gauge shoes an 02% of 20.9, then cycling from 1.3% back up to 20.9% again.
-Blipping the throttle makes the needle on teh gauge flash up at 7.5a/f and then goes back to nothing with the '02%' in the middle of the gauge.
-In Evoscan I think its reading the LC-1 input correctly as it displays the same 7.50 when blipping the throttle, then goes to 0 indicating the 02% issue, log attached.
-Is my issue the grounding location at the stereo? Or something further?
Cheers
Ben
Last edited by Benja; Nov 13, 2010 at 02:28 PM.
#2
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i dont know if i understand your problem correctly but i had a problem with my gauge showing some strange numbers. Innovate told me that it was because all the wires that needed to be grounded were in different spots. i had to put all the grounds together for it to work properly.
So I think its either not a good enough ground or they are not all grounded together
hope that helps
So I think its either not a good enough ground or they are not all grounded together
hope that helps
#3
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Cheers for the response.
Yeah i'm suspect of the ground.
They are all grounded at the same location, the ground coming out of the stereo, i'm probably going to remove that and ground it on the frame behind, however just wanting to see if anyone has had the same issue.
I'm not running a gauge as such, its just logged directly through Evoscan.
Yeah i'm suspect of the ground.
They are all grounded at the same location, the ground coming out of the stereo, i'm probably going to remove that and ground it on the frame behind, however just wanting to see if anyone has had the same issue.
I'm not running a gauge as such, its just logged directly through Evoscan.
#6
yes but it can get changed by the above action
is your usb serial converter a prolific type? (driver)
you do have the dongle plugged in?
is your usb serial converter a prolific type? (driver)
you do have the dongle plugged in?
Last edited by leecavturbo; Nov 13, 2010 at 02:54 PM.
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#9
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Ok just plugged the portable tail-pipe TB02.com main unit i've been using so far into the Innovate sensor in the front pipe and it worked perfectly, heated up for 10sec and then 14.7-15.1 at idle and dropping to mid 13's on blipping of throttle.
STOKED! Sensor is ok, has to be my grounding surely.
STOKED! Sensor is ok, has to be my grounding surely.
#10
ground offsets are only a issue when using the ana outputs which you are not.
other issues include minimum 12.7 volts needed for the lc1
a good voltage is a prerequisite. just because your battery may start the car does not indicate good voltage
other issues include minimum 12.7 volts needed for the lc1
a good voltage is a prerequisite. just because your battery may start the car does not indicate good voltage
Last edited by leecavturbo; Nov 13, 2010 at 03:23 PM.
#13
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Lol..sorry mate, wife pumped me for not helping clean the house.
Anyway, you were right.
Batt was 12.5V with car off.
Recal'd with the car running and all sweet.
Could I do the free air cal with another sensor the same age, then plug the one in the front pipe back in?
Thanks Lee you're a lifesaver.
Anyway, you were right.
Batt was 12.5V with car off.
Recal'd with the car running and all sweet.
Could I do the free air cal with another sensor the same age, then plug the one in the front pipe back in?
Thanks Lee you're a lifesaver.
#14
not really. its quite important you are reading the afrs corectly.
either unscrew it (i know its a pain) or wait overnight there will be no exhaust fumes left in exhaust then
Last edited by leecavturbo; Nov 13, 2010 at 05:52 PM.
#15
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
So you have done the 'free-air calibration' with the sensor in the exhaust leaving it overnight and its read successfully?!
Yeah its a massive pain to pull the sensor back out, and my other issue is that the unit is only getting 12.5volts with acc on. :S
Going to have to pull the sensor, throw a bung in the exhaust, start it and then calibrate.
Any tips to remove it without wrecking the wiring? Worried about twisting it too much.
Yeah its a massive pain to pull the sensor back out, and my other issue is that the unit is only getting 12.5volts with acc on. :S
Going to have to pull the sensor, throw a bung in the exhaust, start it and then calibrate.
Any tips to remove it without wrecking the wiring? Worried about twisting it too much.