KOOLER

Hi,

what angle am I supposed to have on idle for Brian Crower 272 cams? Currently I have 10 and bad start. Tried lowering and highering it - no result. Anybody running these cams and willing to share his numbers?

Thanks!

Anton

JohnBradley

iTrader: (30)

MIVEC angle? I would set the cam timing to -1.2* to get the idle right. You need to set the minimum bounding limit to -1.2* as well since it will only go to 0* by default.

Aaron

KOOLER

MIVEC is fine thank you for it! But I'm more interested in High / Low Octan Ignition map

Thank you!

JohnBradley

iTrader: (30)

I run around 14-16* Timing on big cams that dont like to idle and then run a 13.0 AFR at idle by setting the car to idle in open loop.

Aaron

justastockevo

iTrader: (1)

this guy's problem is not really the cams (he's semi-local to me). they're idling fine with 8* and 14.7 afr at 850 rpm, perhaps a bit lopey but fine otherwise.

problem lies with bosch ev14 injectors cut to perform as 1000cc. so its probably cranking ipw tables which need to be re-adjusted. btw, same problem as with many other guys. dead cold start is perfect, hot start is perfect, run her hot and let her sit for 20 to 60 minutes - boom, no start. will be looking into it shortly. tips are welcome

05blue8

iTrader: (28)

I'm running 2150's and worked with Tom at VR-Speed on this issue for a few days. Other than his 3 maps I've tried about 20 configurations myself and I can't get it, neither could Tom. I've tried playing with the cranking primer pulse, all the start-up tables like IPW comp, initial cranking ipw vs coolant temp, cranking IPW comp vs time, start IPW latency mcsec, all to no avail. I've even tried what someone suggested by leaning out their low loads 500 and 1000 rpm's, no workie...I'm running 96530706. I can literally crank the car for 8-9 seconds before it catches

I would easily pay someone to help me figure this out. I've seen guys post about looking at the ipw tables for start-up and adjusting them so I'm guessing those are the ones that already show or are there new tables other than the ones mentioned above?

Something also to note on mine is that to get my car to run the right afr's without maxing the fuel table my scaling is set to 1329 so not sure if that has anything to do with it.

JohnBradley

iTrader: (30)

I never touch the cranking IPW it seems to complicate starting and the 10 seconds after start. Easier ways to make that work.

Aaron

Dynotech Tuning

iTrader: (12)

05blue8,
What fuel pump setup, fuel pump wiring and FPR are you running? Also, is the factory FPR solenoid still hooked up?

justastockevo

iTrader: (1)

Aaron, you should be in the know care to elaborate? should i say rescale lower MAF values instead?

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

There's something else going on with your car. Your the first car i could never get to start instantly on e85 both cold and warm. Before when i first grabbed your car prior to your previous tuner we had it cranking within a few cranks then after you changed fueling setup it seems it wont work well anymore (startup wise). Prior to that i adjusted IPW & Starter engagement time etc. (atleast thats what its called in rom)

I didnt say i gave up.. and i can easily force the vehicle in open loop and make it start via spots on the map it hits when turning over.

however.. you should note when your global fueling is changed it will start first crank or so, but then the map is all out of wack.

I only tried a few things on your car.. there is MANY other things to try to get it to work.

contact me and we can get the issue resolved.

but yes .. there are many ways to skin a cat on the stock ecu.. lol.

justastockevo

iTrader: (1)

i'll be trying lowering 7 and 9 volts latencies first, will see what gives.

anyone has the definition for timing advance @ cranking? perhaps if i shift it from 5* to say 8* it would start better?

JohnBradley

iTrader: (30)

If the injectors are dialed warm there are 3 tables to play with.

The post primer enrich has more to do with cranking than the cranking enrichment (2 of them). More is rich, less is lean. On SD cars this affects how soon you can run the car after starting and if it wants to die immediately.

9v is the only cranking voltage. I have never logged nor seen the 7v do anything. Again more is rich less is lean. Depending on injector size you can get pretty big with this value since its low volts and therefore not much fuel.

KOOLER

For me it looks like there's too much gas as if I keep the gas pedal on (put more air I guess) it DOES start more or less. Today it get worser. I can do only cold start and no hot start is OK unless it's applied IMMEDIATELY car is turned OFF. I can throw other injectors but I'm pretty sure EV14 are fine.

justastockevo

iTrader: (1)

ok, making 7v & 9v voltages lower gave us a bit of a progress.

i've also made cranking enrichment adder lower (multiplied the whole table by 0.667, which is the ratio of current/stock injector size), and it made things a bit better as well.

as of now, the car starts warm from 5th crankshaft turn, although i'm sure it can perform better than this.

probably i should be lowering initial ipw pulse as well as a part of experiment.

if it doesn't make things better, i'll be looking into tables named "MAF Comp vs Coolant Temp" and "BFPW Startup Comp" as well (older naming "Post Primer Enrich" and "Post Primer Enrich Decay" respectively).

more ideas please? any chance to change that fixed 5* timing advance while cranking? seems to me that it should help as well.

05blue8

iTrader: (28)

I never said you gave up Tom...I just said you couldn't figure it out at that specific time that I posted in this thread but you've been tuning my car long enough that you've learned stuff over the course and have solved plenty of "issues" so I'm sure you can figure anything out with enough time. Our schedules just weren't working out so I tried tackling it myself.

I'm running a buschur double pumper, FIC2150's, -8 feed, Magnus V5 with no EGR, FP solenoids etc hooked up, Fuel lab regulator...tried stock and big gauge wiring to the pumps and stock, results are the same.

I'm perfectly fine with waiting til it's over the C line to drive it...I just want the MF'er to start up and not make me sit there cranking 10 seconds.