HELP Rough idle, car stall
#1
HELP Rough idle, car stall
Hi guys,
I've just installed Tomei 270 Procam with MAP UD Beehive Springs and retainer kit. The car have all the supporting mods and running stock ECU.
Car idle very rough as one will expect from 270. But it stall easily just like aftermarket BOV with leaky vacumn. Also it stall when a/c is on. Just like some members here, the idle drop when the radiator fan kicks in.
The car is so hard to drive with its twin plate clutch and stalling problem. My tuner said it was because the standard ecu is not up to the task and he can't change the compression ratio on stock ecu. Is that true?
Anyone has the same problem? Is it bad tune or simply the ecu is not up to the tasked?
I've just installed Tomei 270 Procam with MAP UD Beehive Springs and retainer kit. The car have all the supporting mods and running stock ECU.
Car idle very rough as one will expect from 270. But it stall easily just like aftermarket BOV with leaky vacumn. Also it stall when a/c is on. Just like some members here, the idle drop when the radiator fan kicks in.
The car is so hard to drive with its twin plate clutch and stalling problem. My tuner said it was because the standard ecu is not up to the task and he can't change the compression ratio on stock ecu. Is that true?
Anyone has the same problem? Is it bad tune or simply the ecu is not up to the tasked?
#3
on a 8 or older evo I would say it's normal to have a rough idle but on a 9 with the mivec it shouldn't be that bad at least in closed loop
up the "target minimum idle" & "target idle rpm with ac on 1" values from 800->850
& the "target idle rpm with ac on 2 " from 850->900
that should take care of the A/C on idle stalling
if you use an aftermarket BOV or recirc valve, it may not help at all, it's one of their usual downside, try various settings if you can
Some race clutches are hard to drive everyday and no aftermarket ecu can fix that, a lot of people regret their choice and end up changing again for a more "civilized" clutch
up the "target minimum idle" & "target idle rpm with ac on 1" values from 800->850
& the "target idle rpm with ac on 2 " from 850->900
that should take care of the A/C on idle stalling
if you use an aftermarket BOV or recirc valve, it may not help at all, it's one of their usual downside, try various settings if you can
Some race clutches are hard to drive everyday and no aftermarket ecu can fix that, a lot of people regret their choice and end up changing again for a more "civilized" clutch
#4
Thanks for the info guys, its the idle that playing up.
We had since changed all the idle to around 1100-1200 mark, it drives so much better without stalling.
Same goes to the clutch, twin plate is not the most friendly clutch around but since the idle issue is gone, the driveability improved drastically.
There is still room for fine tuning, no point idling at 1200 when 1k mark should do the trick.
Thanks again
We had since changed all the idle to around 1100-1200 mark, it drives so much better without stalling.
Same goes to the clutch, twin plate is not the most friendly clutch around but since the idle issue is gone, the driveability improved drastically.
There is still room for fine tuning, no point idling at 1200 when 1k mark should do the trick.
Thanks again
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khay silk
Evo X Engine Management / Tuning Forums
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Oct 8, 2015 06:00 PM